Airbrushing in high humidity?

[sbaxter]

I haven't used my airbrush in at least 13 years. I am well and truly tired of waiting, but I don't have a place indoors I can use anymore. Is it possible to use an airbrush in the high Florida humidity (which is in effect more than half the year, and in full force right now) successfully? One day we may add a room to the house, or maybe I will cut a window into one of our storage sheds and install an AC in it for that purpose, but right now I'm pretty well stuck. Is there a combination of procedures and/or materials I could use that should work? CO2 tank rather than simple air (I probably need a new compressor anyway if I go that route, so for all I know a CO2 tank would be cheaper)? Acrylics versus enamels versus lacquer? Sorcery?

Qapla'

SSB

[TazMan2000]

You can use an inline desiccant filter.

TazMan2000

[EVApodman]

I got a CO2 tank 20 years ago and have never had to worry about humidity or moisture in the lines since.

[sbaxter]

I got a CO2 tank 20 years ago and have never had to worry about humidity or moisture in the lines since.

Okay; that sounds promising. How humid is the air where you are during the worst times of the year? Historically, where I live it averages in the low- to mid-90s in the mornings (when temperatures are typically in the low to upper 70s degrees F) and slowly declines during the day to between the high 50s to the low 60s in the afternoon, when temperatures usually fall in the low- to mid-90s degrees F. Relative humidity doesn't really deviate much year-round with regard to the numerical value -- but as the term indicates, it is relative.

Also, what type of paints do you use?

Qapla'

SSB

[sbaxter]

You can use an inline desiccant filter

Even when I did use my airbrush indoors with air conditioning, I used such a filter on the line coming out of the compressor. I have heard of people using one there and a second one in the line just before the airbrush itself. That sounds cumbersome.

Qapla'

SSB

[TazMan2000]

If you have a desiccant filter on your compressor that should be enough. I would let your model acclimatize to the outside as much as you can, and of course, paint in the shade. I built myself a indoor paint booth with a both room fan and filter that had an attachment with a hose I can stick in the window rails to seal out bugs and the cold. It doesn't take away all of the paint fumes but it certainly reduces them.

TazMan2000

[EVApodman]

I got a CO2 tank 20 years ago and have never had to worry about humidity or moisture in the lines since.

Okay; that sounds promising. How humid is the air where you are during the worst times of the year? Historically, where I live it averages in the low- to mid-90s in the mornings (when temperatures are typically in the low to upper 70s degrees F) and slowly declines during the day to between the high 50s to the low 60s in the afternoon, when temperatures usually fall in the low- to mid-90s degrees F. Relative humidity doesn't really deviate much year-round with regard to the numerical value -- but as the term indicates, it is relative.

Also, what type of paints do you use?

Qapla'

SSB

I gave up on my compressor when I was trying to air brush my Heinkel HE-111 and every now and then a burst of water would come out of the air brush ruining that part of the painting requiring me to fix it up and re-do it. Here the humidity is so thick at times you can cut it with a knife but since I started with compressed CO2 it hasn't been a problem for me. The air is completely dry, uniform in pressure and silent.

[sbaxter]

Reviving my own thread here ... I'm actually working on a model again, after 15 years. I still don't have a good climate-controlled place to use spray paint or an airbrush -- not yet, anyway. I have a rattle can of Mr. Surfacer 1000 I'm planning to use as a primer.

I presume that if I can keep the compressor indoors, in the AC, it should help reduce the moisture, yes? Seems obvious, but you never know, nor do I know whether it would help enough to make such a contrived setup (running the air line out a window, asking those inside to put up with the noise when the compressor runs) worthwhile. I will be using a moisture trap, regardless.

I was also thinking that the following steps would likely help …

• Paint outdoors during the middle part of the day, when the overall humidity is lowest.

• Take parts outside in a zip lock bag for an while, so the temperature of the plastic will match the ambient temperature.

• With rattle cans, warm them by soaking them in very warm water for a bit before use.

I was thinking these steps would at least help prevent condensation that would otherwise cause problems. If the paint in a spray can is actually warmer than the outdoor temp, and the parts are at equilibrium with it, then there should be no condensation. I know spray cans cool as they are used, so I'd plan to dunk them back in the hot water between coats.

Any other ideas, objections, or comments?

Qapla'

SSB

[Saturn]

CO2 cylinders as your air-supply? CO2 is totally dry. So is N2. (noiseless is a bonus)

The cost is roughly the same as an entry-level hobby compressor.

[sbaxter]

CO2 cylinders as your air-supply? CO2 is totally dry. So is N2. (noiseless is a bonus)

The cost is roughly the same as an entry-level hobby compressor.

But much more expensive than the compressor I already have.

I like the idea for both the dry "air" and the lack of noise, but I'm not sure about the expense and the logistics of such a plan. What size tank do you have, and how much does it cost to fill it? Also, how heavy is it, especially when filled? I have a neuropathy -- https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Charcot%E ... th_disease -- that makes it difficult, tiring, and painful for me to walk very much, and I have an especially hard time walking while carrying something heavy. There's also the fact that it would probably be a minimum of a nearly 60-mile round trip to get such a tank refilled.

Qapla'

SSB

[southwestforests]

I presume that if I can keep the compressor indoors, in the AC, it should help reduce the moisture, yes? Seems obvious, but you never know, nor do I know whether it would help enough to make such a contrived setup (running the air line out a window, asking those inside to put up with the noise when the compressor runs) worthwhile. I will be using a moisture trap, regardless.

I say yes, go with using the moisture trap, regardless.
The only place I have airbrushed is inside 3 different apartments in 3 different cities.
Since only I and the cats lived there there was no one to inconvenience.
Using a couple different little hobby compressors, 1 piston, 1 diaphragm, indoors, a moisture trap was still a necessity as the compressors compressed what little humidity there was inside and after a time spurts of water would come through the nozzle.

[Saturn]

What size tank do you have, and how much does it cost to fill it? Also, how heavy is it, especially when filled?

I use a 20lb cylinder (Aluminun, weighs 50lbs filled). And I'm still on my last fill (12+ years ago) Cost depends on where you get it done. Some industrial gas suppliers will only swap cylinders and some will fill while-you-wait. I think the last fill was $35, while a cylinder swap was over $50. Some gas suppliers will insist on testing the tank prior to filling.

I have a neuropathy -- that makes it difficult, tiring, and painful for me to walk very much, and I have an especially hard time walking while carrying something heavy. There's also the fact that it would probably be a minimum of a nearly 60-mile round trip to get such a tank refilled.

If mobilty is an issue, CO2 may not be for you- it is 50lbs. I've got mine firmly strapped to a two wheel dolly. You have to be careful transporting any compressed gas in your car too.

But I love how precise dialing in pressure is. More so than with compressors, tank or not.

[sbaxter]

What size tank do you have, and how much does it cost to fill it? Also, how heavy is it, especially when filled?

I use a 20lb cylinder (Aluminun, weighs 50lbs filled). And I'm still on my last fill (12+ years ago)

Well, that is impressive.

Cost depends on where you get it done. Some industrial gas suppliers will only swap cylinders and some will fill while-you-wait. I think the last fill was $35, while a cylinder swap was over $50. Some gas suppliers will insist on testing the tank prior to filling.

That isn't too bad, especially if a fill would last me even half as long as yours has lasted.

If mobilty is an issue, CO2 may not be for you- it is 50lbs. I've got mine firmly strapped to a two wheel dolly. You have to be careful transporting any compressed gas in your car too.

What precautions are required for transporting it? I do have a trailer, if it needs to be transported standing upright (I can use the trailer as soon as well repair the AC in the one vehicle we have currently that can pull it ). Is part of the issue that if there's a leak, you could accidentally suffocate yourself? I presume that's inherently more of a danger in a car because it could also cause a wreck, and the fact that vehicles move means a greater chance of something happening in transit that could cause a cylinder to leak, even if it wasn't doing so previously. Here in the physics department, we have areas with multiple cylinders filled with nitrogen and helium, and they all have warnings on them of the potential suffocation hazard, given they are invisible gasses with no odor. Also, does CO2 require a certain type of approved tank?

As for the weight, I do have two sons -- one just turned 16, and the other is 11. I do also have a hand truck.

Thanks for your input. I do find this idea very attractive for the inherent dryness and lack of having o put up with a racket.

Qapla'

SSB

[sbaxter]

I say yes, go with using the moisture trap, regardless.
The only place I have airbrushed is inside 3 different apartments in 3 different cities.
Since only I and the cats lived there there was no one to inconvenience.
Using a couple different little hobby compressors, 1 piston, 1 diaphragm, indoors, a moisture trap was still a necessity as the compressors compressed what little humidity there was inside and after a time spurts of water would come through the nozzle.

Oh, absolutely. Back in the day when I did have a space to work inside, I always had a moisture trap on my compressor.

Qapla'

SSB

[seam-filler]

I've taken to using a small in-line moisture trap that screws directly to the airbrush. I've actually got three so I can swap them out during longer sessions when the need arises.

[sbaxter]

I've taken to using a small in-line moisture trap that screws directly to the airbrush. I've actually got three so I can swap them out during longer sessions when the need arises.

I've heard of people doing this ... would you, by chance, have a link or brand name for such a thing?

Thanks.

Qapla'

SSB

[seam-filler]

I've taken to using a small in-line moisture trap that screws directly to the airbrush. I've actually got three so I can swap them out during longer sessions when the need arises.

I've heard of people doing this ... would you, by chance, have a link or brand name for such a thing?

Thanks.

Qapla'

SSB

I've got mine through evilBay or Amazon UK. Follows is the link to the UK one I've used. You should be able to find the US (or wherever) equivalent...
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Airbrush-Filte ... BNQ2&psc=1

[sbaxter]

I've got mine through evilBay or Amazon UK. Follows is the link to the UK one I've used. You should be able to find the US (or wherever) equivalent...
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Airbrush-Filte ... BNQ2&psc=1

Thanks!

Qapla'

SSB

[Saturn]

What size tank do you have, and how much does it cost to fill it? Also, how heavy is it, especially when filled?

I use a 20lb cylinder (Aluminun, weighs 50lbs filled). And I'm still on my last fill (12+ years ago)

Well, that is impressive.

I've been on a building dry spell for several years because of vision issues. So YMMV. It's used to refill my Sodastream bottles at the moment.

If mobilty is an issue, CO2 may not be for you- it is 50lbs. I've got mine firmly strapped to a two wheel dolly. You have to be careful transporting any compressed gas in your car too.

What precautions are required for transporting it? I do have a trailer, if it needs to be transported standing upright (I can use the trailer as soon as well repair the AC in the one vehicle we have currently that can pull it ). Is part of the issue that if there's a leak, you could accidentally suffocate yourself? I presume that's inherently more of a danger in a car because it could also cause a wreck, and the fact that vehicles move means a greater chance of something happening in transit that could cause a cylinder to leak, even if it wasn't doing so previously. Here in the physics department, we have areas with multiple cylinders filled with nitrogen and helium, and they all have warnings on them of the potential suffocation hazard, given they are invisible gasses with no odor. Also, does CO2 require a certain type of approved tank?

I remember when I first bought the tank, the supplier had this "safety tip" poster of a car's trunk where CO2 tank had exploded after a collision. Scary stuff, but you just have to follow common-sense things. Strapping the tank down securely so it doesn't roll around. Making sure that the valve isn't at risk of being opened if it glances against something. (I usually put a milk crate around the valve end to prevent contact with the valve.) And some tanks come with a handle that completely surrounds the valve to prevent accidental opening.

I don't know about the actual suffocation danger. Air from an slightly open CO2 tank valve comes whooshing out, even at low pressures. It's going to be very obvious and not something you wouldn't notice like Carbon Monoxide poisoning.

The tank should always be upright, but will be fine horizontally for brief trips. I've always emptied it prior to long trips or cross-country moves.

The tanks used for CO2 don't require any special certification or approval. The fast food and homebrew industry have been using these tanks for decades. But some gas suppliers may insist on a test/inspect prior to re-filling. (kinda why some suppliers will only do swaps for filled tanks)

You can buy a cylinder from Amazon, but I recommend getting it from a gas supplier- even though it may means paying more. And a dual gauge regulator that measures PSI *and* content remaining is a must. Let them know it's for an airbrush/spray gun, and bring a supply hose so you can get an adapter to fit the regulator's output.