Does anyone know (if you can clear coat after weathering?)

[M.T.C.]

Hello I was wondering if anyone knows if you can clear coat a model after it has been weathered? Especially with Eye Shadow?Will it ruin the weathering?I appreciate all help to this,thanks

[zaphod]

I always clear coat a model after weathering, in order to protect said weathering. With something innovative like eye shadow, it is imperative to start with light coats. You want to throw just enough gunk on the eye shadow to glue it in place, but not enough to make it flow and run. If you have a double-action airbrush, press down just enough to make clear coat come out, and keep your arm moving as you pass it over the model.
Hope that helps,
Brian aka Zaphod
Socorro, NM

[M.T.C.]

I use krylon spray,will this work?

[Jason Abbadon]

Krylon spray will work but expect some of your subtle weathering to be lost- this happened with my Vorcha after I had used sone subtle watercolor washing that I thought looked perfect.

Basically, it was back to the drawing board.

Try Workable Fixative- it's much more forgiving.
Cheaper too!

[Kylwell]

It's also best to not spray too directly on the model when clear coating pastels (or eyeshadow I'd guess). I usually spary above the model and kinda let the clearcoat drift on and settle. Go light and plan on multiple coats.

As a note, with some pastels this will cause a darkening of some the pigments in the pastels. Usually this fades as the clear coat drys.

[TER-OR]

That's important to remember.

You can use pastels, then spray some lacquer dullcoat in the air and pass the piece through. It should be enough to fix the dust. It won't hold up to rigorous handling, but it should be enough.

[Lt. Z0mBe]

Here's what I do.

Fix with verrrry light coats of Windex-thinned Future. Basically, mist and fly through, taking care to make the appropriate "whoosh!" sound effect. Laser sounds are optional.

Then, after the Future's super cured, I repeat the whooshing process with Krylon Matte Finish.

I hope this helps.

Z0mBe

[Mark Yungblut]

Since you are new to the technique here is what I would recommend. Take either some spare parts (realatively large) or sheet plastic and paint it with the same colors as your model. Weather the "test" pieces just like the model. Then practice getting the light coats down on the test parts prior to coating the finished model. This will have the added advantage of seeing what the clear does to the pastels or the eye shadow.

Hope this helps.

[M.T.C.]

thanks

[big-dog]

In honesty I would really suggest acquiring an airbrush, you'll be amazed at how different your results are, even with canned air. At the risk of flaming I'll tell ya, you can get a knock off of a Badger 350 from Harbor Freight for 10 bucks. Don't own one meself, do have a real 350, you can get one carded from Dixie Art for about 30 bucks. The 350 is an absolute joy to use. Like a highly adjustable spray can. It's worth saving the pennies for. Then you can mist your model with more control than you dreamed of.