I am painting a deck floor the first color light tan, and the second color dark brown, both testors enamel spray. I was planning on sealing the final finish coat with model master clear flat laquer, since my first paint is the light color is there any benifit of spraying the clear flat on top of that, before painting my final dark brown color ? and then finishing that last coat with the clear flat ? and how long will i need to wait between paint applications and the application of the clear flat laquer ?
thanks
clear flat laquer question
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- BERT aka MODEL MAKER
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- Joined: Fri Nov 28, 2003 11:01 pm
- Location: LAKE TAHOE, NEVADA
clear flat laquer question
BERT
MODEL MAKER
IF MY SIGNAL IS BLINKING, I AM NOT ASKING PERMISSION
MODEL MAKER
IF MY SIGNAL IS BLINKING, I AM NOT ASKING PERMISSION
Okay, more tips for ya.
It's okay, I'm a professional.
Don't use more paint than you have to. Any fine details will be filled in and lost in layers of paint. Even clear coats will have mass, therefore will cause detail to be "softened."
Lay down all you colors first, then if you want an even finish, put down your clear Laquer. Also, I find that Testor's enamels (mostly) are opaque enough to lay light over dark over medium and mix it up however you feel is best. Example: I did an AV8B in camo with a light gray underside. I found it best to spray the green/gray camo FIRST on the built model so the shapes could move naturally, THEN I put on the light gray underside with even break lines where it transitioned into the camo surfaces.
The only Testor's color that give me any grief is YELLOW. In fact, ANY yellow paint from ANY manufacturer is problematic.
Will there be any decals on this part? If so, you have a different set of steps to follow. Read any postings on proper decal application for more advice.
It's okay, I'm a professional.
Don't use more paint than you have to. Any fine details will be filled in and lost in layers of paint. Even clear coats will have mass, therefore will cause detail to be "softened."
Lay down all you colors first, then if you want an even finish, put down your clear Laquer. Also, I find that Testor's enamels (mostly) are opaque enough to lay light over dark over medium and mix it up however you feel is best. Example: I did an AV8B in camo with a light gray underside. I found it best to spray the green/gray camo FIRST on the built model so the shapes could move naturally, THEN I put on the light gray underside with even break lines where it transitioned into the camo surfaces.
The only Testor's color that give me any grief is YELLOW. In fact, ANY yellow paint from ANY manufacturer is problematic.
Will there be any decals on this part? If so, you have a different set of steps to follow. Read any postings on proper decal application for more advice.
www.halbierman.com - online portfolio.
- BERT aka MODEL MAKER
- Posts: 876
- Joined: Fri Nov 28, 2003 11:01 pm
- Location: LAKE TAHOE, NEVADA
no decals, it is the polar lights jupiter 2 upper deck floor it calls for the light tan to be painted then a circular mask in the center, then spray over the deck a second time with the dark brown so that the floor is dark brown with a light tan inner circle
BERT
MODEL MAKER
IF MY SIGNAL IS BLINKING, I AM NOT ASKING PERMISSION
MODEL MAKER
IF MY SIGNAL IS BLINKING, I AM NOT ASKING PERMISSION
Enamel, especially flat, will stick very well to a clean plastic surface. Wipe it down with denatured alcohol to remove any mold release. I suggest Tamiya yellow masking tape. Low tack, fine enough to control underspray, and lifts clean.
www.halbierman.com - online portfolio.