Scribing 101???

Slave1 · Post by **Slave1** » Sun Apr 03, 2005 12:14 am

Ok, I just got the amt/ertl rerelease of the vaders tie fighter and I noticed it doesn't have any panel lines around the cockpit of it, I dont know a thing about scribing except that it makes recessed lines in the model,
So how do you scribe, How do you keep the lines straight? I really dont want to mess this up.
Thanks

duck · Post by **duck** » Sun Apr 03, 2005 12:39 am

There are several scribing tools you can buy.
A favorite is to use an exacto.
Scribeing straight lines is a tough one! I'm still working on that!

Good luck!

max142 · Post by **max142** » Sun Apr 03, 2005 5:14 am

to scribe straight line: try using electrical tape as a guide. also start very light and use the back of the blade. The blades work better if the first couple of millimeters are removed.

Mr. Badwrench · Post by **Mr. Badwrench** » Sun Apr 03, 2005 5:18 am

There are a lot of really nice scribing tools available, from Tamiya, Testors, Squadron, etc. But the one I use is the back of an X-acto knife. Slowly draw the back edge of the blade across the plastic, and it'll raise a little curl of plastic. Do this several times. Don't press down the first couple passes, because if the blade wanders off a bit you don't want it to badly scratch the part. After it has a little groove to follow you can start pressing down a little harder. I usually draw the knife across the panel line seven to ten times to get a good line.

To make straight lines on flat plastic is easy, just use a ruler as your guide. Straight lines on a curved surface are almost as easy, you can use Dymo tape or electrical tape as a guide. In this case it is really important to start off slowly, with light cuts. The tape will guide your blade, as long as you don't jam on it. Odd shaped panel lines are trickier. The best thing is to probably make a custom template out of tape or styrene. Verlinden also sells stainless steel scribing templates, with all sorts of odd shapes on them.

If you are trying to re-scribe panel lines on a kit that has raised panel lines, a lot of people sand off the existing lines, draw them back on in pencil, and scribe using the methods outlined above. I've found that you can use the existing raised lines as a guide. Run the knife edge along side the raised line until you've got a nice, recessed line, then sand the surface smooth. You'll have to go back in to each line and clean out the sanding goop, but it works pretty well.

Slave1 · Post by **Slave1** » Sun Apr 03, 2005 10:57 am

thanks guys, I gonna start experimenting with it, but first I need the electrical tape.

Post by **TER-OR** » Sun Apr 03, 2005 10:04 pm

Label tape is also frequently used.

Both will adhere to the piece, making it less likely you may screw up.

TheIrishAvenger · Post by **TheIrishAvenger** » Sun Apr 03, 2005 10:35 pm

I have a question for Badwrench: You say you can use raised panel lines as a guide by scribing alongside them to get your recessed ones. Obviously your new lines will be slightly off location from your original raised one. How significant an issue is this? Have you found it to affect the look of the model at all?

Chris

Post by **TER-OR** » Mon Apr 04, 2005 7:19 am

I've done just that in the past, and as long as the lines were correct to start with, it works just fine. The raised lines and new scribed lines are so close, its not like they're a mm away.

rocketrider · Post by **rocketrider** » Mon Apr 04, 2005 11:49 am

Not sure if this works or not, I have not tried it yet. I guess it depends on the area to be scribed.

I work in graphic design and have seen felible rulers that can bend around curved surfaces.

Dick Blick Art Stores carry some from a company called Fiscars.

http://www.dickblick.com/zz556/61/produ ... ig_id=6196

Just a thought

I like the label tape idea, ill have to try that one

Glen

Blappy · Post by **Blappy** » Wed Apr 06, 2005 7:55 am

The best scriber I have used is thr Olfa Specialty P-cutter blade.

http://www.olfa.com/Products.asp?C=11&P=59

This blade lets you do superfine lines or heavy lines depending on the number of passes combined with the pressure applied. The scribbed lines are also V shaped so it works best for masters being made for casting.

I have tried the other scribbing tools on the market and find they either made a line that is to big or too rough. With the Olfa tool I can get little Tamiya like 1/72 scribbed lines easily. I can also use the same blade to score and break large sheets of Styrene or Acrylic.

I just buy the blades and never bothered with the big cumbersome handle.

TREKKRIFFIC · Post by **TREKKRIFFIC** » Wed Apr 06, 2005 11:18 am

I've found that even if I screw up badly, I can just apply some white putty to the lines I don't want (perhaps add a little denatured alcohol on a q-tip to really smooth it out, sand very carefully to leave the line I want, and it comes out looking fine.

I also have used an exacto saw type blade (sans the handle) to make wider panel lines on cylindrical parts. I do this after first making a few passes using the back on my exacto knife. A hose clamp wrapped around round parts can also act as a guide. Just slide it over the part and screw the clamp down snug but not too tight or you'll risk popping the seams.

Jonas Calhoun · Post by **Jonas Calhoun** » Wed Apr 06, 2005 1:26 pm

I've got the Tamiya scriber, with the Olfa cutter. Really like it, as Blappy has said, it'll do fine or wide lines with ease.

I personally like the clunky handly, it give a lot of surface area for gripping--my hand shakes when I try and do fine work, so the more I can rest my hand on the better.

Dan

plasmahal · Post by **plasmahal** » Wed Apr 06, 2005 4:07 pm

i am about 3/4 through scribing all the lines on my amt defiant kit.

badwrench is spot on with what he said in his reply.

i have been using a tamiya scribing tool, a scapel with a curved blade with the tip broken off and some scribing templates i was lucky enough to pick up at a modelling show here in the uk.

the templates are very thin stainless steel with sets that have different shapes laser etched into them.

follow peoples advice here that have done this before, it does take a bit of practice but once you get started it gets quite addictive.

do a google search for "scribing panel lines", there are lots of resource material out there.

hasegawa do sets of templates like the ones i got. i had an order in for hlj until i saw the ones at the show at a fraction of the price and i could get them there and then. you will find these templates useful for future modelling projects. i'm gonna do my starfury next.

one thing to bear in mind (not sure if mentioned yet), take into account how much paint your gonna put on your model and maybe make an extra pass or 2 to get the right depth to compensate for paint coverage. it's a judgement call your have to make.

you will make the odd mistake but dont let it get you down, there are easy ways to sort them out, just dont give up and top tip, start on bottom of model first so any big mistakes wont be easily seen.

good luck.

plasmahal · Post by **plasmahal** » Wed Apr 06, 2005 4:18 pm

just checked out the olfa webby and the p-450 scriber in there is exactly the same as the tamiya scriber.........

i checked my tamiya one and it has olfa etched on the blade and on the handle...

then took it apart and found a spare blade inside too that didnt know about until reading this post and finding the olfa webby.....it's nice when things like that surprise you.

if you get the olfa or tamiya scriber they are exactly the same so get one cos they have a nice chunky handle to hold the scriber steady with.

octagon · Post by **octagon** » Fri Apr 08, 2005 6:26 pm

plasmahal,

Can you provide a link what this looks like?

"hasegawa do sets of templates..."

Thanks.

Blappy · Post by **Blappy** » Fri Apr 08, 2005 10:41 pm

octagon wrote:plasmahal,

Can you provide a link what this looks like?

"hasegawa do sets of templates..."

Thanks.

The templates are all listed here. They have some other great tools as well.

http://www.hlj.com/scripts/hljlist.cgi? ... upOt&Dis=2

This one has great Sci-Fi and Anime shapes. The scribing tool that comes withit is great for scribing the round shapes and stuff. The Olfa is better for straight lines.
http://www.hlj.com/product/HSGTL2

This one has good generic shapes.
http://www.hlj.com/product/HSGTP-1

These are fantiatic for scribing on compound curves and doing rivets.
http://www.hlj.com/product/HSGTP-2

These two setsa of scriber saws are also indespensible
http://www.hlj.com/product/HSGTP-3
http://www.hlj.com/product/HSGTP-4

I have all of the above sets and find them indespensible. They are great for adding detail to Scratchbuilt Sci-Fi stuff or replacing lost details due to seam filling and the like. With a bit of practive you can make scribed line that replicate what you see on Hasagawa and Tamiya aircraft kits.

plasmahal · Post by **plasmahal** » Sat Apr 09, 2005 3:08 pm

nice one blappy cheers....

the tools i saw were the hesegawa tritool range.

worth investing in if you do a lot of modelling (other than just sci-fi alone).

i dont know how easy these are to get hols hold of in the usa, you seem to have a better hobby backup over there than in uk thats why i was surprised to see these templates at a local show to me.

you guys have got wonderfest coming up maybe one of the dealers there might have something suitable.

if not hlj is your only other option.

good luck.

octagon · Post by **octagon** » Sun Apr 10, 2005 6:42 pm

WOW

I have ordered stuff from hlj, never once realised cool stuff like that existed.

Thanks so much for the link, Blappy.

Every piece looks like a MUST HAVE.

Pigpen · Post by **Pigpen** » Sun Apr 10, 2005 7:30 pm

Hey Blappy, I have meant to pick up a set of those tri-tool scribers for a while now, was always curious tho, are they meant to be just held in your hand on thier own? Or do they go into a handle?

Blappy · Post by **Blappy** » Sun Apr 10, 2005 9:35 pm

Pigpen wrote:Hey Blappy, I have meant to pick up a set of those tri-tool scribers for a while now, was always curious tho, are they meant to be just held in your hand on thier own? Or do they go into a handle?

You jst hold thm in your hand. You get better control that way I think anyway.

Post by **TER-OR** » Sun Apr 10, 2005 10:01 pm

Ooh, more templates.

I have the Verlinden set for aircraft, but the Hasegawa set has some unusual shapes.

Thanks, Dave. More stuff to buy.

octagon · Post by **octagon** » Tue Apr 12, 2005 5:40 am

Is there instructions on how to use this one?

http://www.hlj.com/product/HSGTP-2

Woody · Post by **Woody** » Sat Apr 16, 2005 10:45 pm

Here are some pics I posted showing some of the scribing I was working on.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/ ... d86172.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/ ... re2006.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/ ... re2005.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/ ... e238aa.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/ ... 10d1b2.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/ ... 96929a.jpg