Paasche VLS or Iwata HP-BSC Eclipse

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Cvrle
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Paasche VLS or Iwata HP-BSC Eclipse

Post by Cvrle »

I'm in the market for an airbrush and these two are in the finals.
A question about the Iwata- I don't like using bottles, I prefer color cups, however Iwata doesn't seem to have one in offer. Can another be substituted?
How are the brushes for cleaning & use?
Thank you very much in advance!
Tvrtko
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roguepink
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Post by roguepink »

I use the Paasche VL airbush (close enough) in the model shop at Estes Rockets. The parts are readily available, but I've never needed any so far. It came with three needle/head assemblies, but I stick with the #3 setup. (#1 = fine, #3 = med, #5 = broad).

I've never used the Iwata, but I hear they are good.

It's a pity you can't try the airbrush at the store before you buy it. One thing that pleases me about the Paasche VL is the large diameter body. Comfort becomes important when you use it for prolonged periods.
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TER-OR
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Post by TER-OR »

These are the very fine detail brushes. Both are good, but the Iwata is a lighter brush.

As you're in Croatia, I'd also consider replacement part costs. I don't know whether you'll rely on retailers or internet. Both are well-supported brushes.

There are others, also good detail brushes like the omni 6000 and the Badger Sotar 20/20.

I wouldn't consider any of these as an everyday brush, but a detail brush you'll use maybe 5-10% of the time. For everything else, a general purpose brush which has much less expensive replacement parts is a better bet. For example, my Omni 3000 uses paint tips (aka nozzles) which cost $3.00. The Sotar tip costs $26. I know which I'd rather replace. The Iwata and Paashe are similar.

You won't go wrong with any of these. You won't usually see them with bottles, because they're meant for fine details and use very small amounts of paint.

If you want a general-purpose brush, you can't go wrong with any of those brands general models, either. I'd look at the replacement cost issues and suppliers to make a pragmatic decision.
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Cvrle
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Post by Cvrle »

I'm looking into replacement part costs, however, I'm willing to pay a little more for ease of maintenance.
I'll be using an internet retailer (or if I'm lucky, somebody I know will happen to hop onto a plane for the states :D ), and they seem highly regarded (Bear air).
From what I've gathered, the Iwata HP-BCS is a general purpose brush- has fine line to broad coverage with only one needel and nozzle set, and since my area is 1/72 planes and armour, I don't need a brush with extremely large coverage- the only large coverage I'll need is the 350 NX and the 350 refit, and my old Aztek single action will do just fine for a base coat.
I'm a little cash-deprived, so I'm looking for the best quality at an affordable price- I' don't build a lot of models due to two jobs and university, so my output is about one in two months...
What brush do you use?

Cheers,
Tvrtko
intent on building... but somehow i just end up collecting (full) boxes :)
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Post by TER-OR »

I have an Omni 3000. It's a GREAT value.
I can brush quite fine lines with it - 1-2mm. It's a bit tricky at that level, though. For finer jobs I use a Badger Sotar 20/20. It's much pricier - espescially for replacement bits.

A couple of guys in our club have BCS brushes. One has the gravity fed model the other has the side-feed. They both like them quite a lot. When Chad looked at my Omni, he thought it had a very similar performance envelope to the BCS. Both are nickel-plated brass and all-metal.

The Badger equivalent is the model 155 Anthem and Badger 360- which is the Badger 155 with a rotating head so you can use it as a siphon or gravity. It's the airbrush I recommend to people as a primary brush. The Paashe similar is the VL, I tend to prefer a more svelte brush and find the Paashe models fatiguing.

Bear Air is a very good retailer. They're a little pricier than Dixie Art Supply, and do carry a slightly different product list, so I use them now. They are quite reputable, though, Bear Air will treat you right.
http://www.dixieart.com/

My first airbrush was a Paashe H. One of the best modelers I know still uses this brush, though he now has a Sotar for fine work. The Sotar is similar to Iwata's HP series, mostly the HB-B with the midsize color cup. These are gravity-feed airbrushes, and can lay down a VERY fine line, with a very small amount of paint. If you're after painting freehand camoflage on 1/72 armor and aircraft, these are your best option. I use mine when painting some intricate weathering and metal miniatures.

However, if you practice with the BCS, Omni 3000, Badger 155 or VL you will get pretty close. I don't recommdend people buy the fine detail brushes until they figure out what they can't do with the better general purpose brushes.


You're looking at quality brushes, which is good. Iwata and Badger make all-metal units which will last you a lifetime if you take good care of them. Buy a set of cleaning brushes while you're at it. Buy some spare tips (nozzles) as well, as these wear out the quickest and lead to the worst paint spatter when they get worn.

I think you'll be happy with any of these units.
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Cvrle
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Post by Cvrle »

How does your Omni 3000 handle metalizer paints (MM or Alclad)?
I was also thinking about it, but read that it doesn't handle these kinds of paint well... Is it true?

Really grateful for all the help!
Cheers,
Tvrtko
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Post by TER-OR »

For those who can't find info about the Omni - it's made by Thayer & Chandler, a division of Badger.


I haven't run lacquer-based paint through my Omni. I rarely use anything but acrylics. It does spray acrylic metal paints well enough - Tamiya, Gunze, Testors etc. I did buy a cheap single-action airbrush for the metalizers. Mostly because I'd only use metalizers in broad area coverage anyway, the single-action is sufficient. It's also easier to clean by just running solvent through one, and if I only use it for metal paints I don't have to worry about contaminating normal paints.

Maybe some of the other guys can relate more experience with the lacquer metalizer paints.
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Post by Romulan Spy »

I use a Badger 200G; it's a very simple single action brush with a small built-in color cup on top. With the medium needle/nozzle assembly it will do broad area coverage and reasonably fine lines. It's no Iwata Custom Micron, but for around 50 bucks it does quite well.

I use everything from Tamiya acrylics to Metalizer colors. Never had a problem with either. The small color cup allows the brush to be loaded with very small amounts of paint; I often use an eye dropper to load just a few drops of color for quick painting of small parts.
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Post by Cvrle »

Hmmm...
Looking at the price, the Badger 155 seems a really good catch...
Should I be aware of any pitfalls?
The game is now between the Iwata and the Badger... the Badger has lower priced replacement parts and is significantly cheaper for (almost) the same bang...
I'm leaning towards it for that very reason.. plus it reminds me of my first airbrush... a brass/stainless steel (yes folks, I'm not kidding)affair from the dark recesses of the soviet union... Guess they copied a lot of things :))
Keep the advice coming, the debate is still contiuning! :D
Cheers,
Tvrtko
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Post by TER-OR »

yeah, it's confusing.

They're really very comperable. If you do consider the Badger 155, I'd spend the extra couple dollars and get the 360. It's the same as the 155, but the head rotates so you can use a color cup or jar as a siphon, or use the built-in color cup as gravity-feed.

I've looked at both airbrushes, and they really are quite similar. I've used the 360, and thought it had good control. I haven't used the Iwata, but the guys in our group like it.

In my mind, you're looking at equals.
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Post by Kylwell »

Truely, I think it comes down to personal prefrence & grip feel.

I'm a Iwata man, but I can't talk down to the lastest from Paashe & Badger.
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Post by b5ranger99 »

Can you arrange to actually handle each of them? I have an Iwata and have worked for them at some local shows. We made a point of having one each of the most popular models out so people could pick them up and see how they felt (make sure an airhose is connected preferably with pressure on). When someone couldn't decide on based features, the feel was what made the decision. Some chose Iwata, some chose another brand. As long as they were happy with their choice when they were painting it was a good choice.
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