Advanced. Decals

Kylwell · Post by **Kylwell** » Sun Apr 24, 2005 10:37 pm

The Epson's ink-flow is all software based. You'll have to experiment a bit with the print settings to get the result you want. Probably your best choice is the Transparencies or Photo Quaity Glossy Film settings, then go to advanced setting and select your maximum resolution.

And if worse comes to worse, there are some more manual settings in the Color Management menu.

Del · Post by **Del** » Tue Apr 26, 2005 10:19 pm

Thanks kylwell. I guess I just have to play with it.

I'll make some more with the HP so I can do some stuff now, and figure out the Epson later. Thanks again!

Kylwell · Post by **Kylwell** » Tue Apr 26, 2005 10:27 pm

I just found out that the 880 has a manual flow regulator under the hood. Don't know if the C86 has one or not.

And your welcome.

Jason Abbadon · Post by **Jason Abbadon** » Wed Apr 27, 2005 12:16 pm

I've (lately) been using Bell Decals through a color copier/printer with great results.
Very nice stuff there. 8)

TB2 · Post by **TB2** » Fri Apr 29, 2005 8:05 pm

Help! I need to make some decals. Actually, I have a sheet of stickers that I want to clean up, change the colour slightly and copy into decals using my computer. I have a colour printer/scanner/copier (an HP PSC 2170) but I'm a newbie to all this so I don't know what to do or if I can do it on my system. I have Windows XP; apart from that I'm not sure what to tell you. If anyone can give me some step-by-step direction it would be much appreciated, just talk to me like I'm eight and don't assume I know anything

I have no doubt I can do it if the steps are clear. Thanks in advance, I know we have many computer experts here.

MrNobudy · Post by **MrNobudy** » Thu May 26, 2005 9:57 pm

looking for some advice on getting decals to stick better. im working on a nebula and i had 2 lifeboats come of, compleatly ruining them. and that they are numbered makes replacing them hard.

ive followed the directions, even use Micro sol on them. is there somthing out there that is an adhesive enhancer?

mrn

seam-filler · Post by **seam-filler** » Fri May 27, 2005 2:10 am

MrNobudy wrote:looking for some advice on getting decals to stick better. im working on a nebula and i had 2 lifeboats come of, compleatly ruining them. and that they are numbered makes replacing them hard.

ive followed the directions, even use Micro sol on them. is there somthing out there that is an adhesive enhancer?

mrn

I presume you've tried brushing MicroSet on the model first, applied the decal, then used MicroSol....

If that has failed, then try disolving a little (and I mean only a few drops) of white glue (PVA glue) in warm water to make a very, very thin glue. Apply it very sparingly to the model and use a sponge, firm foam rubber or soft eraser to apply firm pressure on the decal. Don't use MicroSet on the model first, but you can use MicroSol after the decal is on.

I've had good results even when there has been absolutely no adhesive on the decal. This means that even really, really old decals are still usable.

Also, I also assume that the model has a gloss finish?? Decals don't like matt (flat) finishes.

BERT aka MODEL MAKER · Thu Jun 02, 2005 6:39 pm

TER-OR wrote:If you need to remove decals before they've been overcoated you just need a hot damp cloth. It's the same principle as removing wallpaper.

If it's been overcoated with acrylic, alcohol or ammonia-containing window cleaner will remove the acrylic coat. Then the hot wet towel can be used.

i applied a floor decal that was to go on "clear" without white backing but it is very hard to see, i have a replacement decal but i need to remove this one, i used model master decal set under and on top of it it was applied to an enamel brown floor that was sprayed with clear flat laquer weeks before applyling the decal, how can i safely remove this decal ????

Post by **TER-OR** » Thu Jun 02, 2005 10:01 pm

As long as you haven't overcoated with clear coat you can remove the decal with adhesive tape. If clearcoated, you might want to use a hot damp cloth to loosen everything, then peel off.

I'd try the tape first, it sounds like you won't have a problem.

BERT aka MODEL MAKER · Thu Jun 02, 2005 10:42 pm

worked like a charm THANKS

DX-SFX · Post by **DX-SFX** » Fri Jun 10, 2005 6:31 am

Microset does indeed smell like vinegar but I don't think Microsol can be just soapy. The name suggests that it has at least a mild solvent action to soften decals and get them to form over an irregular shapes.

However my main question is this. I have some Superfilm liquid decal film which I want to thin and puddle under some decals I want to apply to avoid silvering and to provide some "grab". The model is very large and already has a matt finish. I don't want spray the entire thing glossy or locally and then have to respray it matt after the decals are put on. Does anyone know what solvent/thinner I should use for liquid decal film? I know it's not water like Microsol and Microset. Does anyone know what substance the stuff is based on?

Post by **TER-OR** » Fri Jun 10, 2005 5:02 pm

I don't think I'd try that. The liquid decal film is great for coating decals, but it's really thick and a gel. If you want to pool something under a decal, and you've got a good glossy surface with little detail you can try this method. I'll use it, but mostly on aircraft wings for the lettering. Espescially white letters on a dark model.

Soften the decal in water, slide it off the backing in the water, and remove all the adhesive. Take it out, and remove as much water as you can on some paper - newsprint is ok. It's tricky. Then put a drop of Future on the model, and place the decal. You only have a little time to make sure it's placed correctly. Use a foam swab or clean paint brush to remove excess, and snug the decal down. Let it sit. It's hard to beat these results, but it's easy to screw up.

Oh, the only time I tried to airbrush the liquid decal film it was a mess. I had to use alcohol to clean everything.

DX-SFX · Post by **DX-SFX** » Fri Jun 10, 2005 6:19 pm

......and you've got a good glossy surface with little detail you can try this method.

Yes, but unfortunately as stated, the surface is matt and I'd like to keep it that way. However I might experiment with the Future idea although I'll probably have to carefully swab the surrounding area to make sure it stays matt.

I'm assuming that alcohol is the thinner for liquid decal film based on your airbrush experience?

Post by **TER-OR** » Fri Jun 10, 2005 6:26 pm

I presume so.

Here's another idea - white glue. Do the same as I described with Future, but use slightly diluted white glue.

I do know you can use the spot method with Future - but you will need to dullcoat after. There's not much escaping that. Remember, the decal will be glossy anyway. So you'll have a flat model with shiny decals. Unless you dullcoat.

DX-SFX · Post by **DX-SFX** » Fri Jun 10, 2005 7:27 pm

I've used the white glue trick before and although it's better than the gum arabic on the back of the decals, the decals don't snuggle down quite as tightly. I need something fairly tenacious to guard against lifting or scratching. In this case the decals need to remain glossy but on a matt surface.

Bomech1 · Post by **Bomech1** » Sat Jun 18, 2005 2:00 pm

Hope I'm not changing the subject but I just picked up some Micro-sol.
On the drive home - 10mins. for 5mls. seattle what can I say. Micro-sol softens the decal sheet right? and testors afects the surface of the model right? Can you use both to achieve a good fit or am I having one?

Brian

Post by **TER-OR** » Sat Jun 18, 2005 5:49 pm

http://www.spacemodelmania.com/models/w ... chlist.doc

There's my decal watchlist.
The solutions aren't used on the sheet, but on the decal.

Bomech1 · Post by **Bomech1** » Sun Jun 19, 2005 1:13 pm

Sorry what I ment was the decal film. can Micro sol and Testors decal set
be used together to achive a better aplication?
Brian

DX-SFX · Post by **DX-SFX** » Sun Jun 19, 2005 3:56 pm

Don't see why not.

Bomech1 · Post by **Bomech1** » Tue Jun 21, 2005 12:55 pm

TER-OR
checked the warchlist. Thanks great info. very complete in my opinion - very helpful.
Tried the testors decal set with microsol -worked great.
DX - thanks for the push.
Brian

Post by **TER-OR** » Tue Jun 21, 2005 9:14 pm

A lot of brave decals died making that watchlist. Your success is testement to thier sacrifice!

In the immortal words of Eek! the Cat, 'it never hurts to help.'

Send some pics for the gallery when you're done.

the DOCTOR · Post by **the DOCTOR** » Sun Jul 10, 2005 2:46 pm

Hey, EAGLE, and any other Brits who want to know: you can get clear and white decal paper from these folk:

Crafty Computer Paper

Â£1.40 for an A4 sheet, and it works really well with Citadel satin Hard coat as a varnish.

Kylwell · Post by **Kylwell** » Sun Jul 10, 2005 2:53 pm

The big trick I found to printing your own ink-jet decals is to let them dry for about 48 hours before coating them with a sealer. And then letting the sealer fully cure (another 2 days) before using.

Keifer0999 · Post by **Keifer0999** » Tue Jul 26, 2005 8:03 pm

I need to print some decals up. I will need to make them in both black and white. So, what kind of decal film should I get? Here's a pic....what I need to print up are the symbols on the shoulder pads ( small white and small black ravens). Would it be clear for black and white for white?
http://www.coolminiornot.com/91164

Post by **TER-OR** » Wed Jul 27, 2005 7:26 am

I'd print black on white decal film. Printing white is difficult - impossible unless you have access to an ALPS. Or, paint white beneath, and print black with clear for the white to show through.

justcrash · Post by **justcrash** » Wed Oct 12, 2005 8:50 am

DX-SFX wrote:Microset does indeed smell like vinegar

I blow acrylics, with future over them and the only time I used microet it actually ate through my future and the paint underneath, both of which had weeks to cure. Did I do something wrong is is microset/solvaset not the way to go for acrylics?

GYSGT Hartman · Post by **GYSGT Hartman** » Mon Oct 31, 2005 5:36 pm

justcrash wrote:
DX-SFX wrote:Microset does indeed smell like vinegar
I blow acrylics, with future over them and the only time I used microet it actually ate through my future and the paint underneath, both of which had weeks to cure. Did I do something wrong is is microset/solvaset not the way to go for acrylics?

I work the same way. I think you simply let it set too long. You used Micro-SET not SOL? Set is the less potent of the two. I use SOL with no problems, but then I dab up the excess with paper towel/capillary action and gently assist it pressing slightly with Q tips.

I haven't had any trouble.

Post by **TER-OR** » Tue Nov 01, 2005 10:58 pm

You might have applied too much, or didn't have a clear coat. I highly recommend overcoating your paints - even gloss ones with a fine coat of Future. I can see how solvaset might be a bit rough, but I use bot types on acrylics without problems.

justcrash · Post by **justcrash** » Wed Nov 02, 2005 7:53 am

TER-OR wrote:You might have applied too much, or didn't have a clear coat. I highly recommend overcoating your paints - even gloss ones with a fine coat of Future. I can see how solvaset might be a bit rough, but I use bot types on acrylics without problems.

I probably applied too much.

Stingray · Post by **Stingray** » Wed Nov 02, 2005 10:24 am

TER-OR wrote:http://www.spacemodelmania.com/models/w ... chlist.doc

There's my decal watchlist.

Interesting read. Thanks.

-S

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