Future floor polish

[firemann816]

I love this modeling site, and Armorama
There is a LOT of discussion on both sides of the pond about
Future/Klear

Here is only one
http://www.armorama.com/modules.php?op= ... 603&page=1


Please visit Armorama if youre less than satisfied with Future and research it on Armorma
it has been addreessed and solved

it is a big help to us modelers

[Lt. Z0mBe]

Wise and Sagely Scale Modelers,

I had a thought. Could I use Future in a way similar to filler primer? I mean, could I use coats of Future to fill small imperfections, before color coats?

What do you all think? Have you all tried this?

I appreciate the advice.

Z0mBe

[Mr. Badwrench]

I have not tried this, but it certainly sounds like it's worth a go. One way to find out!

[BERT aka MODEL MAKER]

I have never used future, but i am going to start can anyone tell me if the future bottle comes with a spray nozzle like windex does ? if not, can i put future into a cleaned windex bottle and spray or mist it onto the model ?I haven't got an airbrush either but i still want to protect my paints both enamel and acrylic from finger prints dust etc. i will be using it on the outer hull of my polar lights jupiter 2 which will be painted testors metallic silver and also use it on my interior wall panels which are a mix of enamels and acrylics so i can protect the tiny decals i will be applying to the interior. just need to know if the spray bottle misting will work and what kind of results to expect, thanks !
Bert

[Kylwell]

Well....Future is self leveling so if you find a fine enough pump spray and thin it a wee bit it'll probably work. I'd look for a "plant mister" spray bottle. The other big issue would be having the Future dry up in the pump mechanism, so you'll want to clean the sprayer out well with hot water between uses.

Who knows, it might work out better than an airbrush.

[Lonewolf]

I usually brush it on with one of three brushes, depending on the amount of surface area to be covered. If you are careful, you can use a smaller brush to pop any bubbles that may appear.

My method is to finish painting the kit and then let it dry for about two days (I use enamels). I put on a base coat of Future, and then let it dry. I wait about a day (usually because I work on kits at night after my kids go to bed), then I do my weathering. I seal the weathering with another coat of Future, then a final third coat if the model has a gloss finish. If it's a flat finish, I use Testor's Dullcote after the second coat of Future. Sometimes it takes two coats of Dullcote before the kit looks "flat" enough.

[BERT aka MODEL MAKER]

i will be applying it to metallic silver on the polar lights jupiter 2 how much and with what should i dillute it with and will it run down the front and sides of the saucer shape ? i also want to protect my interior details and decals the interior is a mix of both enamels and acrylics.

[big-dog]

I do not have the skill or the space for an airbrush, Kenn

Uh, what? Dude, any moron can use an airbrush, There's no sagely wizzdom involved, and compressors are cheap, 50 bucks for a little one at Wally World. Wanna go real inexpensive? Check out Harbor Freight. Worth it. An airbrush will make you realize what you do have the skill for. Kinda like a drill press or a table saw. It's a tool, go get a plastic tote to use as a spray booth and have at it.

[BERT aka MODEL MAKER]

It will brush on fine, but watch out for bubbles. They are about the only thing I've seen that will keep it from leveling smoothly. That and cat hair. I don't know about hand brushing matte coats on afterwards, I've never tried it. There are matte and satin clear coats in a spray can. If the brush method doesn't work, maybe you could try these?

what is the best technique for hand brushing future ? wide brush ,sponge how thick or thin of coats is best ?

[roguepink]

big-dog: you are being unfair. I use several types of spray devices every day, professionally. Two dual-action airbrushes and a small automotive spray gun are my primary tools (all three are hooked up at the same time, so frequently I will have all three in use.)

An airbrush IS a tool, sometimes expensive, usually delicate, and requiring of much maintenance for proper continued operation. While a single-action may seem like you just fill, point, and soak the subject with paint, there are more considerations than that. Also, the cheap airbrush kits are just that -- cheap. Initially. Then it breaks. So you buy another cheap one. And the cost of compressed air cans. Or the $50 WalMart compressor that gives out in three months. Wasted money. You want to get into an airbrush, do it right. I recommend the Paasche VL (my main tool) complete set, a combination regulator/moisture trap, and a Delta compressor with a 1 gallon tank. All told, you can expect to spend around $300 for the whole set-up. The Badger 150 (same price) is also good, but I find that the air valve wears out. Cheap to repair ($2) but annoying for high-use environments such as my own. I use that one primarily for Future or other low-use Acryllic paints.

A drill press, you have to have the space to bolt it down, and if it's a drilling station (drill press / drill in one stand-alone unit) there's even more to know about maintenance and care of the tool.

Don't put down someone who is not ready for an advanced painting tool.

Having said that, once you get to know the nature of an airbrush (use and care) it is a MARVELOUS tool, allowing you to do many techniques that are otherwise impossible to achieve.

I have been using Future quite a bit, again, professionally. It dries fast and hard, has an excellent gloss finish, and airbrushes beautifully at full strength.

DOWNSIDES of Future: if you put it over Enamel and the paint is not absolutely dry, you will get crazing/cracking of the paint. In my position, we are constantly putting out "rush work." Some marketing guy says, "I need this model to ship by this afternoon," and that's all the time I have to get it done from raw parts. In this case, Future is a great finish (I can bake it dry in 30 minutes) but again, it is very sensitive to the paint used on the model.

I find it is great over Laquers, as they dry very fast and hard. Excellent over any of the Testor's Acryl colors, too. Since the Future and the Acryl are both, essentially, the same stuff, they play well together.

I have had to paint touch-up over Future finished models (oh, how often I have to do this... ). At this point, Laquer paints are out of the question. Laquer is too hot over any other kind of paint, unless it's the Testor's clear laquer, formulated for Testor's paints. But Krylon -- just don't do it. It's BAD. Good as a base color or on raw parts, but once you use any other paint or finish, Krylon is no longer an option.

Enamels and Acryllics go just fine over Future.

[Mr. Badwrench]

What is the best technique for hand brushing future? Wide brush, sponge, how thick or thin of coats is best?

Brush technique depends on what you are painting. To paint the eyes on a figure you'll need a really small brush, for instance. For large areas you can use a large brush. I've never used a sponge, so I couldn't tell you how well it works. But hand painting with Future is not very different than painting with anything else. The best way to find out is to just do it. If you don't like the results, it comes off easy enough with Windex or amonia.

[BERT aka MODEL MAKER]

thanks for the helpful info. it is the polar lights jupiter 2 and it will be metallic silver

[BERT aka MODEL MAKER]

I use a brush and apply it out of the bottle
havent lost any surface detail yet, but wouldnt blame anybody who uses an Airbrush, who says I'm crazy.
Theyre right 8)

what kind of brush and how big ? whats your brushing method ?

[chang-kuao-lo]

Can future be applied over matte paints without turning the matte finish to gloss?

[BERT aka MODEL MAKER]

i don't think so i just used future for the first time on my PL jupiter 2 elevator cages that had an acryllic flat dark tan and an enamel flat black stripe down the center and after a soak in future and a 24 hour cure the paints are both a semi gloss in appearance

[chang-kuao-lo]

I went and tried some future on a flat blak surface (mr. colour) and it turned out decidedly satiny-semigloss (which can be handy in its own way). I guess I will have to find a decent acrylic matte clearcoat, anybody have any suggestions?

[Trekmanscott]

OK I've come over to the darkside and started to use Future. I airburshed some on an old junk kit and it looked OK. I airbrushed some on a project last night and I got small pits in the finish. It also pooled an a couple of places. From reading thie thread I get the impression that you can sand Future very lightly. My questions are what do I do about the pits. If I sand the finish will the pits go away when I recoat?

[zaphod]

Which masking tape would be best applied over Future? I am painting a canopy, and need to be able to mask it and paint the border. Thus, I need a masking agent that, when applied to a substrate of Future, will not pull up the Future when removed. Please help.

Brian

[TER-OR]

Any tape is fine. I've also used liquid masking film a lot with future-coated parts. Some will slightly haze the future, but a re-coat eliminates that most of the time.

[zaphod]

That's great news. I'll try Future at once.
Thanks!

[TER-OR]

Make sure your clear part is completely clean before coating it. A washdown with windex and good water rinse should do. Otherwise, you can trap smudges beneath the Future.

[Romulan Spy]

I've had good luck using Bare Metal Foil to mask clear parts that have been dipped in Future. A q-tip lightly dampend with Windex will remove any adhesive residue left by the foil.

[zaphod]

Those are excellent tips, thanks. 8)

[Marcal]

Everytime I use Future in my airbrush, everyting becomes a mess. I find very difficult to clean the airbrush after the use... If I use a classic brush with the PL refit it could take much too much time..

So the question is:


What about using Futute with those "hand sprays"... you know this kind of bottle with a mechanism to push air inside and the you get vaporized liquid... more or less like this thing to wet the flowers and so on...

Opinions???

[Mr. Badwrench]

I suppose there is one way to find out, but I suspect it will be like turning a garden hose on the model. The airbrush really atomizes the stuff into a very fine spray, and the mixture is very lean. I don't think you can get that any other way. If you are having trouble cleaning the Future out of your airbrush, try using pure amonia. But do it outside... Or at least wear a respirator.

[Marcal]

I could clean it at the work place... but it pisses me off.

Maybe I can buy a single-action cheap airbrush only for this use... humm....


By the way: is the Future clear??. Because the equivalent I get in Germany is a little bit milky

[Mr. Badwrench]

Maybe I can buy a single-action cheap airbrush only for this use... humm....

That's actually not a bad idea...

And so far as I can tell, Future is absolutely clear. Clearer than gloss lacquer anyway.

[Marcal]

And so far as I can tell, Future is absolutely clear. Clearer than gloss lacquer anyway.

the one I buy is milky (as I said before), but when it dries the surface is gloss but not shiny gloss... if you know what I mean... Maybe I take some pictures next time I use it... Anyway I think it works the way it has to.

[zaphod]

Check out swanny's models for a huge treatise on Future floor polish. I the the address is www.swannysmodels.com.

[Marcal]

Check out swanny's models for a huge treatise on Future floor polish. I the the address is www.swannysmodels.com.

Yeah, I actually used this site to find out what was the German equivalnet. I'm using what he says...