Isopropyl 70% any problems?

pastorgarret · Post by **pastorgarret** » Sun Sep 25, 2005 7:20 pm

I have a question about Isopropyl 70% (USP) sometime called rubbing alcohol.

I canâ€™t find the 99% stuff any more. I like to use Isopropyl to clean the surface of my model just before painting and to thin paint in my airbrush. Have any one of you guys found any problems with the 70% stuff?

I checked to see if this had been posted already and couldn't find an answer to this question.

Happy modeling.

-Garret

Digger1 · Post by **Digger1** » Sun Sep 25, 2005 7:48 pm

Nope. Still works the same. It's a wee bit safer, too.

Scott Hasty · Post by **Scott Hasty** » Sun Sep 25, 2005 8:35 pm

I've NEVER found the 99% stuff. All I've found is the 90% and it's works fine.

Scottie

pastorgarret · Post by **pastorgarret** » Sun Sep 25, 2005 10:24 pm

Babaganoosh wrote:Nope. Still works the same. It's a wee bit safer, too.

I was worried about the oil residue and how that might react with acrylic paints.

Thanks

-Garret

woozle · Post by **woozle** » Sun Sep 25, 2005 10:56 pm

it's safer? what, it's less explosive? It'll make you blind slower?

pastorgarret · Post by **pastorgarret** » Mon Sep 26, 2005 8:45 am

Woozle wrote:it's safer? what, it's less explosive? It'll make you blind slower?

So know one has had any problems with Isopropyl 70% and oil residue?
No reaction with acrylic paints javascript:emoticon(':?:')

Good, thanks I will start using it. javascript:emoticon('8)')

Garret

Digger1 · Post by **Digger1** » Mon Sep 26, 2005 9:36 am

Woozle wrote:it's safer? what, it's less explosive? It'll make you blind slower?

meaning you can drink more.

Fewer fumes, actually.

Post by **TER-OR** » Mon Sep 26, 2005 6:53 pm

Trouble removing oil reside? Should still be OK.

The 70% is IPA, 30% water. That's the most powerful antiseptic ratio for isopropyl alcohol.

pastorgarret · Post by **pastorgarret** » Mon Sep 26, 2005 7:39 pm

TER-OR wrote:Trouble removing oil reside? Should still be OK.

The 70% is IPA, 30% water. That's the most powerful antiseptic ratio for isopropyl alcohol.

Just to clarify my understanding is that there is oil added to the Isopropyl 70% and normally oil and acrylic donâ€™t usually mix well together. I have only used 99% before and I am a little leery.

Thanks for all the help. This forum is great!

These forums are well worth belonging to. I always get answers back fast and the information is always of top quality. I use to model a lot, spending many hours a day and even offered advice to others about modeling with a site I use to run. My life went in a completely different direction about six years ago and I had to drop everything to study and focus on my new vocation. I am still studying so I donâ€™t spend much focused time at modeling. Therefore these forums have been very helpful to me.

Thanks to all, and happy modeling.

-Garret

macfrank · Post by **macfrank** » Mon Sep 26, 2005 7:46 pm

pastorgarret wrote:
Just to clarify my understanding is that there is oil added to the Isopropyl 70% and normally oil and acrylic donâ€™t usually mix well together. I have only used 99% before and I am a little leery.

No. Just check the label. If it says 70% Isopropyl Alcohol by volume, and doesn't say oil added, then it's safe. I usually buy the cheapest stuff I can find at Sav-On that says 70%, and I've never had a problem with it. well, it has a hard time removing dried/cured Testors Acryl...but denatured alcohol doesn't have a problem there.

Frank

en'til Zog · Post by **en'til Zog** » Tue Sep 27, 2005 1:35 am

Hi, pastor!

Not to beat this particular horse anymore, but "rubbing" alcohol ALWAYS contains 'rubifactants' or 'oils'. So - no 'rubbing alcohol' for your models. Or mine, for that matter.

Odd note - I used to be a rather unofficial Chaplain's Assistant in the Army. Some of the guys wouldn't talk to a "real" 'sky pilot' for various reasons, but would talk to me. Helped a few guys that way. I think.

pastorgarret · Post by **pastorgarret** » Tue Sep 27, 2005 8:24 am

En'til Zog wrote:Hi, pastor!

Not to beat this particular horse anymore, but "rubbing" alcohol ALWAYS contains 'rubifactants' or 'oils'. So - no 'rubbing alcohol' for your models. Or mine, for that matter.

Odd note - I used to be a rather unofficial Chaplain's Assistant in the Army. Some of the guys wouldn't talk to a "real" 'sky pilot' for various reasons, but would talk to me. Helped a few guys that way. I think.

Thanks for the reply; I was worried about the oils. I will probably use thinners that are manufactured by the same paint company. Costs more, but then again I am not modeling as much as I use to so this is probably the safes choice.

I am glade that you were able to help your fellow army buds and I could see way they would talk to you first. Clergy can be intimating depending on their personalities and or denomination. I was a graphic artist for twenty-four years; I also had a modeling site for about three years. I think I sinned every sin you could (ok none of the biggies ;-) before I felt lead to become a pastor. Was a very long road for me? Because of this I find a lot of people are willing to talk to me as well.

Thanks for sharing that with me. I know these are not the forums to discuss this so I digress and say thanks again for your help. Happy modeling.

Garret

Jonas Calhoun · Post by **Jonas Calhoun** » Wed Sep 28, 2005 1:44 pm

pastorgarret wrote:Thanks for the reply; I was worried about the oils. I will probably use thinners that are manufactured by the same paint company. Costs more, but then again I am not modeling as much as I use to so this is probably the safes choice.

Personally, that's the route I took--I spent quite a bit of time experimenting with this and that as a thinner, now I just take the manufacturer's thinner, and run with it. The only exception is that I use Liquitex Flow-aid and Slo-Dri when handpainting. But I figure those are for painting too, so no biggie.

Dan

Post by **TER-OR** » Wed Sep 28, 2005 8:30 pm

Flow-aid doesn't hurt with airbrushing either....

Jonas Calhoun · Post by **Jonas Calhoun** » Thu Sep 29, 2005 1:32 pm

Absolutely, Flo-aid does work for airbrushing, and quite well too. I just don't use it--I use the manufacturer's thinner (in this case, Gunze), and it seems to have retarders in it. I find I get a slightly smoother surface when I use Gunze's own thinner...but again, to each his own. In most cases, I'd be happy either way.

Dan

irishtrek · Post by **irishtrek** » Fri Sep 30, 2005 12:14 am

The 99% stuff works great on acrylic paints from craft stores not so good on model master acrylics.It can also dry out the plastic some. polistyrene that is, dont know about resine though. It also works better than the 70%stuff.

big-dog · Post by **big-dog** » Fri Sep 30, 2005 8:53 am

Isoprop works well with Tamiya acrylics, since it's the solvent used. Other acrylics have curdled with the alcohol and blown out of the brush in lumps. Testors (not Model Master) acrylic specifies thinning with distilled water, so that's what I'd go with.