Oil paints - cure time

[qc]

I've recently started to learn and appreciate the use of oil (from the tube...not enamels) paints for weathering. However....I'm still learning.

Well, I have an upcoming contest I'de like to enter, but still working on the model...and letting my oils cure.

I lastly did a oil wash (for panel lines) and then coat for rain marks. But I want to move along...and apply a protective coat (either a coat of future..or perhaps a testors spray gloss coat). How long should I wait to let these oils "cure"? Or at least to set enough where adding future or a lacquer (or i could use tamiya clear...whatever) would not cause any unwanted effects.

Anybody have any hard knowledge on this subject..

Thanks,
Q

[ignatz]

When I painted oils (as in on canvas or on masonite board) my painting instructor said I should wait a year before overcoating the work. Consequently, I never varnish my work! I guess the time it takes to fully polymerize can take quite a long time. I think I would not use acrylic overcoats as the oil paints remain plastic for a long while. This will eventually cause the acrylic layer to lift away. When I use oils on figure kits, I find the dried paint film to be very rugged. Unless you need to change the texture for some reason, I would leave it be. You can add turpentine or wax medium to the paint when painting to get a matte finish, or add a medium like boiled linseed oil to get a glossier finish. Otherwise, I would do a test before trying something new. I think a spray lacquer would also work, like Citidal's Matte Lacquer or Testor's Dullcoat. Always test before committing, and alway spray only very light coats.

[DasPhule]

Take a clean, dry brush and run back over the work. Now rub the brush on a towel. Did it leave any residue or make the water streak longer on the model? If yes, wait longer. If no, go ahead and clear coat.

Watcha paintin Quincy?

Erin
<*>

[qc]

[url]http://qcfoundry.tripod.com/id19.html[url]

nothing new...just trying to put this kid to rest.
lookin good, overall, i think.

we'll see

after some more googling...
seems i read....a week, a month, 6 months, a year.

currently...feels like barely damp "sponge"
i can't smear it...but is cool to the touch (due to moisture)

once that fades...i suppose i'll coat it
i suppose i can tinker with the base for it in the mean time.

hard to run a test sample...since the test sample would be 3 days late (on curing time).

anybody know how to best expedite this process.

i also read about storage during curring....
is (the oil paint) more suseptible to collecting fuzz/lent in the air (due to such a long curing time)?

thx again.

[TER-OR]

I use it for panel washes etc, and in thin layers it can be overcoated with dullcoat if you want. I haven't had any problems. For larger stains etc, I'm not so sure but small areas won't be a problem.

Oil paint never really fully cures - some of them anyway. The linseed oil (or substitute) gradually polymerizes over time. For paintings, where you've got thick paint this is good- it lets the paints meld. For small stains like we use I don't think there will be an issue - I've never had one anyway....

And I'm overcoating with acrylic. Not super-thick, mind you.

[qc]

i appreciate all the help guys...

considering all the work i've put into this guy....def not taking any risks..
i've set a one week + date. currently, to touch, it feels like ....like a really thin film of dirty grease. cool, smudgable (even tho i can't see it), damp-like. mind you this oil coat is very thin....i basically took a toothpick and stipled little white dots every inch or so....then quick "vertical" (in terms of the model's orientation) brush strokes to even out the coat....then took a clean brush with turpentine....expressed most of the turp from the brush and slowly wasted away the white oil coat (with multiple clean turps) until i had the streaks (sim'g rain streaks) i wanted. sometimes the streaks are barely visible.....soooo this coat HAS to be very thin.
but i'll wait a week or so....then i'll do some slow testing....apply a protective coat on a smaller piece and let it sit a day or so....monitor.

little down cause won't be entering the contest...
but i'll busy myself with the base instead

thanx again ev'one

[zaphod]

Basic question: what thinner do you guys use for your oil washes?

[Mark Yungblut]

Well I am a tried and true believer in real turpentine. I feel it works the best (although the smell gets to some people if so try turpeniod). I find mineral spirits too close to paint thinnner and if too heavy handed they can eat trough paint. If you want the was to dry fairly quickly (as in overnight) ad some drops of drying linseed oil.

There is a neat trick that most people don't know about. Go to an art and crafts supply store and get a couple of Kneadable erasers. Work the eraser until it warm and pyable. Youu can then use the eraser in a dabbing motion to remove the layer of oil wash from and high light area. This greatly enhances the effect of the was here are a couple of figs I did using this technique.


The fur and tunic were enhanced with oiil washes. In fact, I only use washes to simulate fur as it maked the job so much easier to do.

Attila

Scale armor was done using the eraser technique:

Carolingian Scola

The feathers and leopard fur are done with washes:

Polish Lancer

The Hair and fur on these figs were done with the wash/ earser tech.

Huntresses

There were a ton of washes done on this Boba Fett bust

Boba Fett