soldering
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Qrest Fourstar
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soldering
Ok guys how does one solder? I mean I get the idea heading the solder it melts and 'welds' the wires to gether but, should I twist them really really goos or what? And how does one use heat shrink tubing?
-Paul
"She may not look like much, But she's got it where It counts kid." -Han Solo
"She may not look like much, But she's got it where It counts kid." -Han Solo
Heat shrink tubing is a breeze to use and quite handy.
Simply slide on a size of HS tube a little larger than the wires then solder the wires together. Slide the tube over teh soldered wires and apply some heat, like hold a match close to it. The material will contract and tighten around the joint.
Soldering is something else. For years I couldn't solder worth beans. Then one day I could. It helps to have a good solder iron, and I mean really good. Don't skimp on the quailty of solder either. The concept is to apply heat to the wire so that the solder will melt and flow into the cracks. It takes some practice.
Simply slide on a size of HS tube a little larger than the wires then solder the wires together. Slide the tube over teh soldered wires and apply some heat, like hold a match close to it. The material will contract and tighten around the joint.
Soldering is something else. For years I couldn't solder worth beans. Then one day I could. It helps to have a good solder iron, and I mean really good. Don't skimp on the quailty of solder either. The concept is to apply heat to the wire so that the solder will melt and flow into the cracks. It takes some practice.
Abolish Alliteration
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Umi_Ryuzuki
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Actually what you do is apply heat to the wires and touch the solder to the wires till they are hot enough to melt the solder.
I prefer to use a "western union splice" when twisting wires together. It is a cleaner more continious joint. But what ever is easiest will work, especially if you are just beginning.
http://www.saskschools.ca/curr_content/ ... sson5.html
Heat shrink tubing is a rubber/vinyl tubing that is used to cover and insulate the splice so that it doesn't short out. The tubing is placed, or pulled over the bare soldered splice, and then heat from a lighter or even a hair dryer is used to shrink the tubing. It contracts around the bare splice and provides an immovable insulating cover. Electrical tape will often lose its sticky and eventually come unwound shrink wrap will not.
I prefer to use a "western union splice" when twisting wires together. It is a cleaner more continious joint. But what ever is easiest will work, especially if you are just beginning.
http://www.saskschools.ca/curr_content/ ... sson5.html
Heat shrink tubing is a rubber/vinyl tubing that is used to cover and insulate the splice so that it doesn't short out. The tubing is placed, or pulled over the bare soldered splice, and then heat from a lighter or even a hair dryer is used to shrink the tubing. It contracts around the bare splice and provides an immovable insulating cover. Electrical tape will often lose its sticky and eventually come unwound shrink wrap will not.
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Mr. Badwrench
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Be aware that there are different kinds of solder. I tried using plumbing solder once without realizing it. I 'bout went mad trying to figure out why it wouldn't wick into the wires.
I'll have to start using heat shrink tubing. I've been tediously wrapping the joints with electrical tape. It's a lot of work and is never any fun.
I'll have to start using heat shrink tubing. I've been tediously wrapping the joints with electrical tape. It's a lot of work and is never any fun.
I speak of the pompatous of plastic.
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Sparky
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A big secret with soldering is to keep the tip clean, and tined. You can get a little 'tin' of this solid material. Just plunge the hot tip into it and let it melt into it. You'll see the tip gets a nice uniform film of tin on it. This will stay for some time. Tin gets worn off when the tip is used a lot, gets dirty a lot, or is left on for a long time. (some cheap soldering irons don't come tined!)
Also a trick is to 'wet' the tip before placing it against the joint you want to solder. Put a little solder on the tip, this little blister of solder should look shiny and free of debris. Then place this part of the tip against the parts to join. It really helps the heat flow into the joint. Add solder to the wires/tip and let the wire/surface tension wick it into place.
BTW Neither one of these tips is applicable to the ColdHeat soldering irons.
Also a trick is to 'wet' the tip before placing it against the joint you want to solder. Put a little solder on the tip, this little blister of solder should look shiny and free of debris. Then place this part of the tip against the parts to join. It really helps the heat flow into the joint. Add solder to the wires/tip and let the wire/surface tension wick it into place.
BTW Neither one of these tips is applicable to the ColdHeat soldering irons.
<a href="http://www.kc6sye.com/2_wheresaneatpart.jpg" target="_Sparky">Is this plastic thingy on the counter a neat part?</a> <a href="http://www.kc6sye.com/1_casting_inprogress.jpg" target="_Sparky">Let's cast it.</a>
Heat shrink tubing is da bomb. Much cleaner than electrical tape, you can get it in some tiny sizes, and as an added bonus you get to play with matches!Mr. Badwrench wrote:Be aware that there are different kinds of solder. I tried using plumbing solder once without realizing it. I 'bout went mad trying to figure out why it wouldn't wick into the wires.
I'll have to start using heat shrink tubing. I've been tediously wrapping the joints with electrical tape. It's a lot of work and is never any fun.
Abolish Alliteration
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GYSGT Hartman
Get a " cold " iron, plain and simple. You get a few hundred joints out of a fresh set of batteries.
Cold soldering works by passing current thru whatever you're soldering, completing continuity at the split soldering tip, thereby completing a circuit and causing the tip to heat due to electrical resistance.
Another great advantage is that the tips really DO cool to the touch in just a few seconds.
As with any soldering, however, try to avoid breathing the fumes from the flux. It contains small quantities of lead...so try to solder under ventilation and be sure to wash your hands after handling solder.
And also, as has been stated, when soldering one heats the WORK not the solder itself. Touch the solder to the work and if one is soldering on PC boards, a heat sink ( like an alligator clip ) should be applied to the trace ahead of any components in that trace's path to avoid thermal damage to those components.
Neatness counts for everything in soldering from something as simple as tinning leads to mounting components. " The Bigger The Blob, The Better The Job " is NOT the way to go. Use just enough solder to do the job. A proper solder joint should be uniform, pretty much shiny silver and NOT with pits, depressions, voids, a dull sheen or blobules of flux around it. The goal is reliability and excellent continuity/conductivity.
Good luck!
Cold soldering works by passing current thru whatever you're soldering, completing continuity at the split soldering tip, thereby completing a circuit and causing the tip to heat due to electrical resistance.
Another great advantage is that the tips really DO cool to the touch in just a few seconds.
As with any soldering, however, try to avoid breathing the fumes from the flux. It contains small quantities of lead...so try to solder under ventilation and be sure to wash your hands after handling solder.
And also, as has been stated, when soldering one heats the WORK not the solder itself. Touch the solder to the work and if one is soldering on PC boards, a heat sink ( like an alligator clip ) should be applied to the trace ahead of any components in that trace's path to avoid thermal damage to those components.
Neatness counts for everything in soldering from something as simple as tinning leads to mounting components. " The Bigger The Blob, The Better The Job " is NOT the way to go. Use just enough solder to do the job. A proper solder joint should be uniform, pretty much shiny silver and NOT with pits, depressions, voids, a dull sheen or blobules of flux around it. The goal is reliability and excellent continuity/conductivity.
Good luck!
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Madman Lighting
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All very good advice.
Heat the work, not the solder. Dont rub the iron on the work, put it on the work and hold it there until the work is hot. Use electrical grade solder which Digi-Key and Mouser will sell you. Also use fine diameter solder instead the heavy stuff.
For heat shrink, I avoid flame. Try tapping or gently rubbing the shrink with your soldering iron or use a hair dryer on low. It really doesnt take much with that stuff.
-John C.
Heat the work, not the solder. Dont rub the iron on the work, put it on the work and hold it there until the work is hot. Use electrical grade solder which Digi-Key and Mouser will sell you. Also use fine diameter solder instead the heavy stuff.
For heat shrink, I avoid flame. Try tapping or gently rubbing the shrink with your soldering iron or use a hair dryer on low. It really doesnt take much with that stuff.
-John C.
That Madman Who Lit Up Deep Space Nine
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GYSGT Hartman
....and also with heat shrink, use a diameter fairly close in size, but larger, of course, than the wire guage or joint that you are sealing. Too large and it may not shrink enough. Too small...self explanatory.
Rotate the work like a bird on a rotisserie to get even heating and shrinkage.
Ditto on flame-avoidance.
Rotate the work like a bird on a rotisserie to get even heating and shrinkage.
Ditto on flame-avoidance.
