Kestrel shuttle pinholes! Help!
Moderators: DasPhule, Moderators
- Sluis Van Shipyards
- Posts: 3072
- Joined: Fri Jul 12, 2002 1:23 pm
- Location: Dayton, OH
Kestrel shuttle pinholes! Help!
I'm building the B5 Kestrel shuttle model and around the sides where the mold seam was I sanded it smooth. Now I have thousands of pinholes. I tried using Mr. Surfacer 500 and built a up about four coats to where I thought the pinholes were filled, then wiped the excess off with lacquer thinner. It filled a lot, but I still have a LOT of very small holes left. Do I need to try a finer grade of Mr. Surfacer or what? Help!
- Sluis Van Shipyards
- Posts: 3072
- Joined: Fri Jul 12, 2002 1:23 pm
- Location: Dayton, OH
-
- Moderator
- Posts: 2404
- Joined: Thu Jun 05, 2003 8:28 am
- Location: Are we there yet? (Chicago)
- Contact:
Ter_or points out that the use of Mr. surfacer is not to fill then remove, it is to place a new thin shell over the old surface.
Don't remove the Mr. Surfacer accept where it interfers with wanted surface details.
Don't remove the Mr. Surfacer accept where it interfers with wanted surface details.
<a href="http://www.kc6sye.com/2_wheresaneatpart.jpg" target="_Sparky">Is this plastic thingy on the counter a neat part?</a> <a href="http://www.kc6sye.com/1_casting_inprogress.jpg" target="_Sparky">Let's cast it.</a>
- TER-OR
- Site Admin
- Posts: 10531
- Joined: Thu Jul 11, 2002 7:05 pm
- Location: Conjugate imprecision of time negates absolute determination of location.
- Contact:
Sparky's right.
IF you wipe or buff down to just where you see the filler in the holes, you've gone too far. The goal is to build a shell over the area and buff it smooth. I find it best to do an entire area up to a panel line or natural break. If none exists, then buff the edges (far from the problem area) down to the model surface.
I learned this painting a WARP Death Glider kit - and discovered the microbubbles in the GRP resin. Not a big deal if you know they're there - but I didn't when I sanded the area.
IF you wipe or buff down to just where you see the filler in the holes, you've gone too far. The goal is to build a shell over the area and buff it smooth. I find it best to do an entire area up to a panel line or natural break. If none exists, then buff the edges (far from the problem area) down to the model surface.
I learned this painting a WARP Death Glider kit - and discovered the microbubbles in the GRP resin. Not a big deal if you know they're there - but I didn't when I sanded the area.
Raised by wolves, tamed by nuns, padded for your protection.
Terry Miesle
Never trust anyone who says they don't have a hobby.
Quando Omni Flunkus Moratati
Terry Miesle
Never trust anyone who says they don't have a hobby.
Quando Omni Flunkus Moratati
FWIW, I use Porc-A-Filler. It's a porcelain chip filler, for sinks, tubs etc...
You can find it in either Home Depot or Lowes (and probably any other good hardware store.
It can be put it on with a paint brush and it goes on pretty thick. Clean -up is with fingernail polish remover.
Once dry you can sand it with a tiny grit sanding stick. If you don't wait to long you can even smooth it out with the fingernail polish remover on a flat paint brush.
You can find it in either Home Depot or Lowes (and probably any other good hardware store.
It can be put it on with a paint brush and it goes on pretty thick. Clean -up is with fingernail polish remover.
Once dry you can sand it with a tiny grit sanding stick. If you don't wait to long you can even smooth it out with the fingernail polish remover on a flat paint brush.
Kev
~ ~ ~
http://www.scififantmodmadrealm.com/RecastFAQ.html
if it's Star Wars, I'm in!
My little piece of the web
~ ~ ~
http://www.scififantmodmadrealm.com/RecastFAQ.html
if it's Star Wars, I'm in!
My little piece of the web
- Sluis Van Shipyards
- Posts: 3072
- Joined: Fri Jul 12, 2002 1:23 pm
- Location: Dayton, OH
Ok, I'll try that, thanks!TER-OR wrote:Sparky's right.
IF you wipe or buff down to just where you see the filler in the holes, you've gone too far. The goal is to build a shell over the area and buff it smooth. I find it best to do an entire area up to a panel line or natural break. If none exists, then buff the edges (far from the problem area) down to the model surface.
-
- Moderator
- Posts: 2404
- Joined: Thu Jun 05, 2003 8:28 am
- Location: Are we there yet? (Chicago)
- Contact:
maybe, but we use fine pigment ink in future to bring out fine details , like the almost invisible panel lines and details on the BSG mini from coby. chances are if you you coat it with future you will see every pin whole and scratch. It is after all a ship passing through atmo.
<a href="http://www.kc6sye.com/2_wheresaneatpart.jpg" target="_Sparky">Is this plastic thingy on the counter a neat part?</a> <a href="http://www.kc6sye.com/1_casting_inprogress.jpg" target="_Sparky">Let's cast it.</a>