It's still too clean - help! Weathering
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- Sluis Van Shipyards
- Posts: 3072
- Joined: Fri Jul 12, 2002 1:23 pm
- Location: Dayton, OH
It's still too clean - help! Weathering
I'm finishing my Chiss fighter and I started doing the weathering on one side, but it's still looking too clean. Does anyone have any ideas? The look I'm going for is a fighter that has been in the field for a while and has just flown out the other side of a huge dogfight. Would lightly misting black over it look good or do you think that would suck? I did that one my Star Destroyer base for my FM X-Wing and it looks pretty good.
BTW, this is how I'm doing the weathering so far: http://www.theforce.net/image_popup/ima ... ourney.jpg
That's a big hires picture so it may take a minute. They're in the lower right side.
BTW, this is how I'm doing the weathering so far: http://www.theforce.net/image_popup/ima ... ourney.jpg
That's a big hires picture so it may take a minute. They're in the lower right side.
Welcome to my world.
Weathering that is.
First, have you tried a pastel sludge wash? Power soem chalk pastels, medium gray to black, add some water and smear on. Let it lightly dry and wipe off in the direction of the airflow. Enhances panel lines and gives some light weathering.
Next, get out the pastels (or some Tamiya weathering makeup). Add some random stream and smears.
How weathered do you want?
Weathering that is.
First, have you tried a pastel sludge wash? Power soem chalk pastels, medium gray to black, add some water and smear on. Let it lightly dry and wipe off in the direction of the airflow. Enhances panel lines and gives some light weathering.
Next, get out the pastels (or some Tamiya weathering makeup). Add some random stream and smears.
How weathered do you want?
Abolish Alliteration
Not to hijack this thread, but I've got a similar question: what's a good method for making dirt/oil/whatever streaks on my FMMF? I tried drybrushing browns and blacks on the lower hull, but the streaks don't look organic.
Seems like a pastel wash or what-not would be a good medium, but how do you apply and using what tools? A detail brush? Cotton swab? Something else?
As always, I'm sure the answer is "it depends" and "it's a matter of personal preference," but at this point, I have no preferences because I'm new to weathering.
Thanks!
Att
Seems like a pastel wash or what-not would be a good medium, but how do you apply and using what tools? A detail brush? Cotton swab? Something else?
As always, I'm sure the answer is "it depends" and "it's a matter of personal preference," but at this point, I have no preferences because I'm new to weathering.
Thanks!
Att
- LindaSmile
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A pastel sludge wsh is applied over a gloss coat. You can apply it with just abotu any tool you want, I use a medium brush. Will all the greeblies on the MF you'll need to be a bit careful, otherwise you'll end up with black (or gray) gunk in spots where you can't get it out.
The water acts as a carrier for the pastel dust, settling it in the cracks and crevasses. Once dry, or somewhat dry, use a damp cloth or paper towel to wipe off the excess. Use q-tips to get hard to reach areas. If you need to, scrub a bit to get the pastel up. This will also dull the gloss finish a bit so don't get freaked out when it happens.
The water acts as a carrier for the pastel dust, settling it in the cracks and crevasses. Once dry, or somewhat dry, use a damp cloth or paper towel to wipe off the excess. Use q-tips to get hard to reach areas. If you need to, scrub a bit to get the pastel up. This will also dull the gloss finish a bit so don't get freaked out when it happens.
Abolish Alliteration
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For SW ships I found, somtimes, that appplying the wash over a matte finish gave a "dirtier" result. You might try it, though, on a dummy test model, etc.
I weathered this B-wing using this method: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v72/u ... WING_3.jpg
I weathered this B-wing using this method: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v72/u ... WING_3.jpg
Did you eat your Chocolate Frosted Sugar Bombs this morning?
- Pat Amaral
- Posts: 3730
- Joined: Fri Jul 12, 2002 2:44 pm
- Location: Ok, I'm here. You can start now
Linda, the ship Sluis is modeling is pictured in the lower right portion of that movie poster. It's the one with the TIE fighter ball and four big swooping arms coming off the sides at angles.LindaSmile wrote:Your link took me to a movie poster. I didn't see anything else in there.
I think the clawcraft is really neato, boss, keen, far out, cool and funky. Easily my favorite variant of the venerable TIE
Pat A.
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50% Nerd, 50% Geek, 100% Cool
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50% Nerd, 50% Geek, 100% Cool
- Sluis Van Shipyards
- Posts: 3072
- Joined: Fri Jul 12, 2002 1:23 pm
- Location: Dayton, OH
No I haven't tried that yet. I found a couple things that are starting to look good, but I'll try that too. Thanks!kylwell wrote:Welcome to my world.
Weathering that is.
First, have you tried a pastel sludge wash? Power soem chalk pastels, medium gray to black, add some water and smear on. Let it lightly dry and wipe off in the direction of the airflow. Enhances panel lines and gives some light weathering.
Next, get out the pastels (or some Tamiya weathering makeup). Add some random stream and smears.
How weathered do you want?
The simple answer, yes. It does both, depending on when you clean it off and how much you clean off.Atticus wrote:K:
Thanks for the pastel tip. Does this technique actually work for creating streaks, or only for highlighting panel lines and recesses?
Note that all the colors on my Falcon are flat, not gloss, so not sure if this will affect how the pastels will (or won't) adhere.
Att
With flat colors you get a lot more dirt, i.e. pastel particles trapped in the recesses of the matte paint.
Abolish Alliteration
- Mr. Badwrench
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Pastel washes, or any washes for that matter, applied over a matt coat will really darken the color, so be prepared. Sometimes that can be desirable, like on a ship that just flew through the Battle of Trafalgar. One of the features of washes, and especially oil washes, is that you can slosh it on, then wipe off the excess, just leaving the stuff that has settled down into the recesses and nooks and crannies. With flat paints some of this ability goes away, the wash stains the paint. This is neither good nor bad, it's just something to be aware of. Personally I think it adds character to a model, but if you're looking for a relatively clean finish you may be in for a rude shock.
I speak of the pompatous of plastic.
- Lt. Z0mBe
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One word of caution with washes applied over a flat coat. Personally, I never do it because they will often stain the coat. The excess wash can't be wiped away completely, making it look like, well, "a wash." I only apply washes over gloss coats.Mr. Badwrench wrote:Pastel washes, or any washes for that matter, applied over a matt coat will really darken the color, so be prepared. Sometimes that can be desirable, like on a ship that just flew through the Battle of Trafalgar. One of the features of washes, and especially oil washes, is that you can slosh it on, then wipe off the excess, just leaving the stuff that has settled down into the recesses and nooks and crannies. With flat paints some of this ability goes away, the wash stains the paint. This is neither good nor bad, it's just something to be aware of. Personally I think it adds character to a model, but if you're looking for a relatively clean finish you may be in for a rude shock.
Pastel weathering I apply over flat coats.
Kenny
Washes can be a variety of things, from pastel sludge to ink to thinned oil paint. Washes are generally used to accentuate panels and rasied detail. Pastel washes also have the benefit of providing some subtle (or not so subtle) weathering streaks and smears.
Used dry, pastels can also provided streak and smears but of a lighter, more subtle nature. They are also used to simulate rust, grime, soot, and dirt, depending on color & placement.
Used dry, pastels can also provided streak and smears but of a lighter, more subtle nature. They are also used to simulate rust, grime, soot, and dirt, depending on color & placement.
Abolish Alliteration
- Mr. Badwrench
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- Location: Wheatridge, Co.
Yep, that is exactly it. Just grind gome pastels up, or scrape some pastel dust off a stick with a knife, and brush them on with a paintbrush. Pastel weathering can look really good, and is easy to apply. It is also easy to change your mind on- if you don't like it, wipe it off and try again. But they are fragile. Models weathered with pastels can't stand a lot of handling, fingerprints show up like mad and it's easy to smear them off. You can clear coat over them, but you have to be careful. The airbrush will blow some of the pastel off, and clear coats will mute the weathering effect. Some colors are worse than others. White pastels for instance virtually vanish under a clear coat.
I speak of the pompatous of plastic.
- Lt. Z0mBe
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I heartily recommend applying powdered pastels with eyeshadow sponges. They are teardrop-shaped and really allow for some very subtle effects. Not to mention they can be rinsed out an re-used.Atticus wrote:Got it. Then if I want to weather with pastels (ie, create subtle streaks), but *not* with a wash, what's the best way? Should I powder the pastels then lightly brush on dry using an artist's brush or some sort of cloth? Seems like the obvious answer, but I don't want to assume anything.
Att
I hope this helps.
Kenny
Thanks for the tip (pun intended)! I'll "borrow" one from my wife. :-)
Att
[/quote]
I heartily recommend applying powdered pastels with eyeshadow sponges. They are teardrop-shaped and really allow for some very subtle effects. Not to mention they can be rinsed out an re-used.
I hope this helps.
Kenny[/quote]
Att
[/quote]
I heartily recommend applying powdered pastels with eyeshadow sponges. They are teardrop-shaped and really allow for some very subtle effects. Not to mention they can be rinsed out an re-used.
I hope this helps.
Kenny[/quote]
I had the wife buy me a set of eyeshadow applicators on her way home from work. :-)
In any event, I practiced on my spare ERTL Falcon tonight, and had good results experimenting with the both ends of the applicator (fat tip, skinny tip), and using both the flat side and edges of the sponges tips. Also figured out that it helps to have a straight edge to draw against, like an envelope. My hand isn't always steady.
Thanks again for the tip! Should work great.
Att
In any event, I practiced on my spare ERTL Falcon tonight, and had good results experimenting with the both ends of the applicator (fat tip, skinny tip), and using both the flat side and edges of the sponges tips. Also figured out that it helps to have a straight edge to draw against, like an envelope. My hand isn't always steady.
Thanks again for the tip! Should work great.
Att