Basics. Colors. Types of paint

Atticus · Post by **Atticus** » Thu Mar 23, 2006 9:40 am

OK, so I put down a neutral gray primer (enamel) on my Falcon, and have let it dry/cure for about two weeks (more by schedule than choice). I think it went well, considering what an awful n00b I am.

Next, I can put down light layers of either enamel (MM) or acrylic (Tamiya) on top of the enamel primer, as I have sets of colors (whites and light grays) for both types of paint.

I'm leaning towards acrylic, as from what I've read in this thread, you can apply acrylics on top of an enamel base, and because I've never worked with acrylics, would like to try them. Or should I stick with the enamel all the way through? I suppose like most things, it's a matter of personal preference...?

Thanks!

NikToo · Post by **NikToo** » Thu Mar 23, 2006 12:40 pm

Just a question on Vallejo Air Color paints. I can get pretty much the whole range of Vallejo Air Color (as well as Game and Model) so I'm just wondering what the pros/cons of it are. I've been using Vallejo Model color for years on tabletop minis so I'm kinda partial to it. The bumpf says Vallejo Air can be used with only a few drops of thinner and it has its own brand of cleaner. Anybody have any thoughts on the subject or experience with Vallejo Air?

Also, does anyone have experience of using Model Color in an airbrush? I already have a wide selection of Model Colors so it would be great if I could use them.

DarKev · Post by **DarKev** » Wed Apr 12, 2006 11:51 am

Hello Folks

I was wondering if anyone could point me to a color chart of Japanese Paint Colors. I'm in the process of selecting my paint for a MG Char's Gelgoog from 0079 Mobile Suit Gundam (Game Color Version). I want to match the paint chart "symbol" to the kit's color percentage mixing table symbols so I can get a close match.

Now I've seen such a while back either here or on the net somewhere but I can't at all find it. Any help I can get to end my search would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

DarKev

Kylwell · Post by **Kylwell** » Wed Apr 12, 2006 11:54 am

Here's Gunze chart. The problem with matching via a computer screen is the colors vary from machine to machine.

DarKev · Post by **DarKev** » Wed Apr 12, 2006 1:47 pm

Hello and Thanks

One thing however, I was looking for the I guess the chart with the color names in "Japanese". The little table (with mixing percentages) in the kit is in Japanese and thats what I am trying to match.

Thanks

DarKev

kylwell wrote:Here's Gunze chart. The problem with matching via a computer screen is the colors vary from machine to machine.

BKShepherd · Post by **BKShepherd** » Fri Apr 14, 2006 11:46 pm

I have question about acrylics is there somethnig you should use before you paint in order to keep the paint from peeling off the plastic? It seems to flake off pretty easily.

Post by **TER-OR** » Fri Apr 14, 2006 11:53 pm

I haven't had a problem with paint flaking using Tamiya, Gunze or Testors/PolyScale acrylics. You do want to wash the plastic well, though. And clean just before you paint. Whether you use something like Windex or PolyScale's Plastic Prep is up to you.

Some of the gamer paints are a bit trickier, they don't bond quite as well. Primer helps, though.

BKShepherd · Post by **BKShepherd** » Fri Apr 14, 2006 11:58 pm

Ah OK I usally give my parts abath anyway. I also use an alchol swab right before I paint. I had done a test of the acrylics in a scrap part , I didn't washor swab I will try it, again.

BKShepherd · Post by **BKShepherd** » Sat Apr 15, 2006 12:00 am

I should also learn to spell

starmanmm · Post by **starmanmm** » Mon Jun 05, 2006 11:37 am

Ok, I'm getting ready to prime my kit. One question is, the primer (from a can) does not list if it is enamel or acrylic. So, do I figure it to be an enamel?

Next, if what I recall is correct, whether it is enamel or acrylic primer, if I am to cover it with an enamel base coat, as long as I let the primed pieces dry for a few days, I should have no reactions?

starmanmm · Post by **starmanmm** » Tue Aug 01, 2006 11:05 am

Just tried using MM Enamal paint. Got that pitted orange peel effect. So, what went wrong? Was the mix not thinned enough? Was I too close or too far away from the kit?

Post by **TER-OR** » Tue Aug 01, 2006 9:11 pm

That orange peel effect comes from uneven drying - the surface dries before the undercoat. Or from surface tension problems. The MM enamel was from the rattle-can? I rarely use those, I'm hoping someone else can help here.

Lt. Z0mBe · Post by **Lt. Z0mBe** » Thu Aug 03, 2006 1:48 am

Hmm...I don't use the little spray grenades much. I usually stick to the Krylon stuff.

Did you take care to keep moving as you sprayed? Uneven coats can lead to uneven drying and thus, orange peel. It seems to me, when I used to use the little cans, it was really easy to have uneven coats.

That's the best advice I've got.

Kenny

starmanmm · Post by **starmanmm** » Sun Aug 06, 2006 9:33 am

No, no rattle can. This was sprayed via my airbrush. It was primed over a month ago so, that is not the issue either.

Post by **TER-OR** » Sun Aug 06, 2006 6:16 pm

One more issue I've found is painting gloss over gloss. For some reason this causes orange peeling many times for me. I've switched to flats or semi-gloss for all painting. At the end, if I need gloss - like for decals, I then airbrush a few coats of Future. This seems much more reliable.

Apophis · Post by **Apophis** » Sun Aug 13, 2006 4:41 pm

So, what kind of thinner do i use for polyscale again? If i dont have thier stuff what can I use in place of? Alcohol, water, mineral spirits, turpenoid??

Post by **TER-OR** » Sun Aug 13, 2006 8:54 pm

If you don't have the PS thinner, use just a bit of water. I wouldn't mess with alcohol - that might cause gumminess. A little Windex in the water might help, but you should experiment before trying to paint the model, that's for sure.

Apophis · Post by **Apophis** » Tue Aug 15, 2006 4:58 pm

I can do the windex! Thanks, This is my first Acryl paint.

Apophis · Post by **Apophis** » Tue Aug 29, 2006 6:00 pm

Guess what?? I used the windex and totally destroyed my FMMF! after looking at the bottle to figure where i went wrong, and found it in the fine print under some paint smear, it reads"to apply by airbrush thin 75% paint 25% THINNER!!! its not even acylic! or even water based!?
And it is made by Testors too!
SO, if you all have any Floquil read the fine print and use THINNER, not anything else.

This is my mistake and noone elses, I told Ter-Or wrong he was right about the pollyscale, that you do use windex or distilled water, what i meant to ask was what do i use instead of "floquil thinner" and it should be any air brush thinner no other kind will work.
my bad!

Kylwell · Post by **Kylwell** » Tue Aug 29, 2006 6:03 pm

Uhm, most Testors paint is enamel.

And acrylic paints have thnner also (it's just that instead of petroleum it's alcohol based).

Apophis · Post by **Apophis** » Tue Aug 29, 2006 6:09 pm

Yeah, i figuered that part out the hard way! live and learn, i just never used the floquil or pollyscale before thats all.

Jonas Calhoun · Post by **Jonas Calhoun** » Tue Aug 29, 2006 8:49 pm

Well, it's nothing that can't be salvaged...there are plenty of other threads here on getting paint removed. Keep us posted on your progress, and I'm sorry to hear what's happened.

If it makes you feel any better, I did something similar when I was first painting a house. Took a new gallon of latex housepaint, added about 15% mineral spirits. Tried to run it through one of the power painters. Gads, what a mess.

Dan

Post by **TER-OR** » Tue Aug 29, 2006 10:16 pm

Floquil is LACQUER! Be careful. Use good lacquer thinner to cut it. You won't need much most of the time, and lacquers can be sprayed fairly thin if you're careful and don't mind blowing fumes all over...

Nothing airbrushes like a lacquer, but nothing stinks up the house like a lacquer. Lacquers are "hot" and will etch into styrene a little. They'll also etch into a previous coat, which can be used for cool effect.

And you can develop a lot of habits using lacquer which will completley fail you when you use acrylics...trust me, I know.

Apophis · Post by **Apophis** » Mon Sep 04, 2006 9:03 am

Okay great, ive used laquers before on my impala, but ive got another question, I got anothe bottle of the same stuff and hooked up to the airbrush and sprayed it, now i used the whole bottle and it was so thin to begin with i did not have to thin it down, and the only thing i got painted was the top hull on my FMMF! the bottle was 1oz.
now my question is this, is this normal for this type of paint? being thin? too much air pressure? or is this an over coat you apply to the base color?

starmanmm · Post by **starmanmm** » Mon Oct 09, 2006 11:26 am

Ok Yamiya question, I know it is ment to be sprayed via an airbrush, but can you hand brush it? I've heard it done. Tried it but it seems to dry as I apply it.

What am I doing wrong (besides trying to do it)?

Kylwell · Post by **Kylwell** » Mon Oct 09, 2006 11:34 am

Tamiya can be hand brushed very nicely (I've seen the results). You do have to thin it if you airbrush it, but hand brushing can be done straight out of the jar.

Post by **TER-OR** » Mon Oct 09, 2006 6:22 pm

Drying extenders might help, too - Liquitex makes a product called Slo-Dri.

starmanmm · Post by **starmanmm** » Tue Oct 10, 2006 8:57 pm

So, for me to be able to hand brush tamiya, I have to use this product called Slo-Dri?

I have tried to hand brush it out of the jar, but it seems to dry too fast. That is my take on it.

Jonas Calhoun · Post by **Jonas Calhoun** » Thu Oct 12, 2006 12:47 pm

The Tamiya and Gunze thinners also have some of the same properties as slow-dri. Especially Gunze leveling thinner.

Dan

starmanmm · Post by **starmanmm** » Sat Oct 14, 2006 7:59 pm

Just trying to get the idea of this...

So, if I mix some of the Tamiya thinner into the paint that should give me the time I need to paint what I need to paint?

Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

Basics. Colors. Types of paint

Enamel and Orange Peel