Noob needs engine lights, HELP!

[Dr. Snuts, M.D.]

I was just gonna light the engines of a Star Wars model I am scratchbuilding. Its not canon but its probably similar to the A-wing model by AMT(?) in size and shape. Can anyone give me a list of the kinds of lights, electrodes or diodes, switches, anything I need to accomplish this effect? I have absolutely no experience at all when it comes to anything electronic. If anyone could point in the direction of a website to buy these supplies too, I would be deeply grateful. Also, just for the 2 yellow or orange LEDs I am after, would you guys recomend battery power or a wall socket power source? it won't be lit often.
Thanks in advance

[Kenny]

Here's the real basics, and how I started off. Now I like to light everything

I don't know what the stores near you are, so can't help there.

You'll need to buy the LEDs and if they don't come packaged with all the details make sure you get the voltage correct and using this calculator

http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepage ... en/led.htm

you can find the resistance of the resistor you will need. For 2 red or orange LEDs I think a 9V battery will be fine,I have several with more LEDs still running with the battery as they don't get turned on that much. you'll need a little wire and a simple on/off switch and a 9v battery clip. I have always mounted the battery in the base and run the wires up a hollow tube. The switch can be on the base or built into to look like a part on the model.
When wiring up, the switch can go anywhere but the short legs on the first LED (the -ve) need to be feed from the -ve terminal then the wire from the long leg goes to the short leg on the next LED then the wire runs to the resistor (polarity doesn't matter here) then to the switch then to the battery.

[Sparky]

If you are planning on battery power, and you paln on putting the batteries in the ship, theres the need to get into it to replace or remove the batteries when not in use (you don't want teh batteries to leek and eat the wires).

If you put the batteries in the base, you might as well add a swithc plug so that you can run it off a wall wart.

can you tell us more of what you want to light (pulsing, constant on) Also you will want to get a battery pack. depending on what you decide to light you might get a battery back that's right near the voltage you need.

[Dr. Snuts, M.D.]

Thanks for the advice guys, you've both already helped me alot. Sparky, as far as my desired effect, just 2 really bright yellow engine lights that would be continuously on...until I turned them off. I'd like the effect of a realistic engine glow, not seeing the LED, but not having it so bright it looks like 2 flashlights shooting out the engines.

[Dr. Snuts, M.D.]

OK, so I found a website. SuperbrightLEDs.com...simple enough. I found some bright yellow LEDs and now I am faced with a choice of viewing angle ranging from 8 degrees to 45. Can someone tell me what this means and which kind I should be looking for?

[Sparky]

Viewing angle has to do with how far off axis (looking dead on) you can look and sitll see light from the LED.

If you are trying to make a tractor beam, a nice narrow viewing angle is perfect, the LED will throw a spot light onto the object and look as though your model really has a focused energy emitter.

If you don't want the directional light pattern but you like the brightness of the LED you can always sand down the LED a little. The viewing angle has to do with the lense that is molded into the LEDs face.

I thought I had a picture of some LEDs I had sanded down but I don't have a closeup of a before and after. . .
this is what you will do if you will be using one LED to light a bundle of fiber optices. You will ruff sand the dome off (carefully not sanding down into the diode junction, then polish the face with some 1200 grit automotive sand paper. Then sand/polish the fiber optic ends and butt them up to the LED. you can use white glue to help hold them in place, and or a bit of heat shrink around the LED and bundle to tie it all together.
here's the start of what I described, minus the sanding of the LED http://www.kc6sye.com/techmages_4_11_04_d.html
follow the link on the bottom to PART V
here's where we finished up the defense towers:
http://www.kc6sye.com/techmages_4_21_04.html

[Dr. Snuts, M.D.]

http://superbrightleds.com/leds.htm

If you guys click on the link you see a braod selection of LEDs. I'm looking for 2 bright yellow ones in either 5mm or 3 mm. problem is, there are several to choose from. Recommendations? what else will be required to make these things work? I have decided to just have them hooked up to a battery.

[Sparky]

The bottom 2 in the list run on 50mA thats 1/2 an amp. If you look at their power dispation (thats how much power they gvie off as heat) they are 150 mW. compared to the first 2 that run on 20 mA and give off 80mW of heat.

With supper brights you need to start to consider heat buildup in what ever you are installing them. In a plastic model heat build up will cause the mstyrene to destorate over time. the more heat the faster the heat build up and the sooner you'll notice the destoration.

so unless you need that much light don't use them. I'm betting they cost more too.


Any of the others (20 mA rated LEDS) look fine jsut depends on how much of a spot light you want. Or if the LED will be mounted far from the landing zone of the light. That is if the LED has to sit far back from the spot where you want the spot light, get a narrow angle, by the time the light beam gets out to the right spot it will have spread. you might wnat to get a sample of the view ing angles in and try them in a mock up before comitting to a bad of them.

If you can find another LED with the same power and viewing angle where you don't need to wait on shipping, you could get them and try them out to see how you like the beam they generate.