Advanced. Decals

jimboh1 · Post by **jimboh1** » Tue Jan 24, 2006 2:04 pm

I've read through this sticky- perhaps it's already rolled off- any advice on yellow decals? Just got a kit from the mid '80s on eBay and found the decal sheet to be quite yellowed- thoughts?

Jim

Kylwell · Post by **Kylwell** » Tue Jan 24, 2006 3:04 pm

jimboh1 wrote:I've read through this sticky- perhaps it's already rolled off- any advice on yellow decals? Just got a kit from the mid '80s on eBay and found the decal sheet to be quite yellowed- thoughts?

Jim

Tape them to a nearby window and let the sun bleach them. Just be sure teh window doesn;t leak or gets condensation (and has sunlight)

jimboh1 · Post by **jimboh1** » Tue Jan 24, 2006 8:59 pm

Okay, I'll try that thanks!!

Jim

irishtrek · Post by **irishtrek** » Sun Apr 02, 2006 3:09 am

I saw a warning a while back about using solvaset with decals from PL but I dont recall what thread it was under.So can any one here tell me if the 2 are compatable? And if it helps the model was painted with laqure.

Romulan Spy · Post by **Romulan Spy** » Sun Apr 02, 2006 11:32 am

I've used Solvaset with decals from the PL TOS Enterprise kit. Those decals must be bullet proof because the Solvaset didn't seem to have any effect at all. The underlying paint job was acrylic, don't know about lacquer.

irishtrek · Post by **irishtrek** » Mon Apr 03, 2006 2:10 am

Thanks Romulan Spy, I'll give it a try later today.

irishtrek · Post by **irishtrek** » Thu Apr 06, 2006 1:47 am

kylwell wrote:
jimboh1 wrote:I've read through this sticky- perhaps it's already rolled off- any advice on yellow decals? Just got a kit from the mid '80s on eBay and found the decal sheet to be quite yellowed- thoughts?

Jim
Tape them to a nearby window and let the sun bleach them. Just be sure teh window doesn;t leak or gets condensation (and has sunlight)

Will the yellow clear up if I put the decal in a plastic bag to protect it from condensation? Also would it work behind 2 winows of which the outer 1 is a storm window? And how lomg should they be taped to the glass?

Kylwell · Post by **Kylwell** » Thu Apr 06, 2006 9:15 am

Yes'm just may take a bit longer.

As long as it takes? I had a really yellowed set that took about 4 days in the very bright Colorado sun. I just checked it every evening til it was done.

Stu Pidasso · Post by **Stu Pidasso** » Tue May 23, 2006 1:49 pm

No matter how much Microsol I use, I can't avoid wrinkles on curved surfaces!

And I do glosscoat the model before I put them on, as well.

Kylwell · Post by **Kylwell** » Tue May 23, 2006 1:54 pm

Do you put MicroSet down first?

See, yaa.. dat's yur problem right der.

Now, not all decals are made equal. I've gotten some exceptionally thick ones (Dougram kit) that took about 20 minutes in the water to release and laughed at MicroSol.

Then there's those Hase decals that conform to a compound curve before you touch them with MicroSet (or Sol).

Stu Pidasso · Post by **Stu Pidasso** » Tue May 23, 2006 3:22 pm

These were Bandia decals. NICE decals, but there were a lot of them, and all were not going on straight surfaces.

Kylwell · Post by **Kylwell** » Tue May 23, 2006 3:46 pm

Hmm, well in that case it's you.

Is it just me, or is everybody else a bit on edge with the coming WF?

Jonas Calhoun · Post by **Jonas Calhoun** » Tue May 23, 2006 4:36 pm

Nah, it's just you.

I'm more sideways than on edge.

Stu--I've had really good success with fresh micro set and sol--but I've noticed that depending on the curve, the stuff can wash away due to surface tension and gravity. Use a soft brush, and just work the set and sol in...if you use a light touch, the brush won't damage the decal with the sol on.

Dan

Stu Pidasso · Post by **Stu Pidasso** » Thu May 25, 2006 10:51 am

Upon further review (brain fart) I'm using Solvaset.

Jonas Calhoun · Post by **Jonas Calhoun** » Thu Jun 01, 2006 4:08 pm

That's your problem right there...your A-frame fell out.

Solvaset, while nice, it's much of a setting solution--it's a solvent solution. It's doesn't help with getting the decal settled in place--it's better after it's already in place.

Try using Micro Set if you can. I don't know if they are compatible...I discovered that Future works, but Micro Sol gums up when it comes in contact with Future.

Dan

DocTor · Post by **DocTor** » Sun Jul 30, 2006 5:45 am

Does anyone know a place in Toronto (or on-line in Canada) where I can find GOOD inkjet water-slide paper?

Ken

DocTor · Post by **DocTor** » Mon Jul 31, 2006 10:29 pm

Nobody in Canada makes their own decals??

CaptainHawk1 · Post by **CaptainHawk1** » Tue Aug 08, 2006 11:27 am

Del wrote:Anybody know how to turn down the ink flow on an Epson printer?

I picked up an Epson C86 printer last week, because the DuraBright inks are supposed to be smudge, water, and fade resistant. Perfect for making decals, no? No.

Unlike the HP printer that I have where I can set it to Best/Photo, and then go to the color tab and set the ink flow at one notch below center, this Epson doesn't appear to have any similiar control.

Problem I'm getting with Bel decals is a crackling finish. Had the same problem on the HP until I reduced the flow, and now the HP prints perfectly. So, I'm assuming too much ink is causing my problem.

Any ideas on how to set this on the Epson?

No idea on that particular model, but current Epson's have plenty of color controls (killing the vivid may help). I have the Photo R200. I recommend testing on blank paper first.

One thing I would also like to say when it comes to Epson printers is that Micro mark decl paper recommends that you use the "overhead transparency" setting for paper choice if your printer has that option. Do not do this. The color comes out wway to rich. Do not use the photo paper setting either. Use your standard settings for rwegular phot printing (don't even use best). Remameber what Scotty said about overthinking the plumbing. He was talking about Epson printers.

-Shawn

TREKKRIFFIC · Post by **TREKKRIFFIC** » Thu Aug 17, 2006 12:42 pm

Is it better to apply decals over gloss lacquer or Future acrylic ?

Post by **TER-OR** » Thu Aug 17, 2006 9:36 pm

It doesn't really matter. Glossy surface is the key - even wax is fine. Be careful with lacquer as a topcoat for aftermarket decals, though. It's pretty strong stuff.

TREKKRIFFIC · Post by **TREKKRIFFIC** » Fri Aug 18, 2006 11:02 am

TER-OR wrote:It doesn't really matter. Glossy surface is the key - even wax is fine. Be careful with lacquer as a topcoat for aftermarket decals, though. It's pretty strong stuff.

Thanks for the tip about aftermarket decals. I always give them a good thick spary coat of decal sealer first and then follow up with a good thick coat of gloss lacquer. So far so good. I've started to spray Future mixed about 60/40 with alcohol over the decals once they're dry.

eeun · Post by **eeun** » Mon Sep 25, 2006 1:35 pm

A small aside for those with the Alps MD-2010...

There was some discussion here some time ago about whether the MD-2010 could print white ink. It's possible to 'fool' the printer into using the white cart (which it won't recognize - at least with the Mac drivers) by placing the ID sticker from another colour cart over the white's ID sticker. If I recall correctly, it was onezero who had tried that with a sticker from a black cart.

Tried it with the sticker from a spent Cyan cart. No go. The white flaked off like bad dandruff.

I thought maybe the metallic carts might use more heat to transfer the ink, and tried the sticker from a silver (which is MD-2010 compatible) on my white cart.

It worked! I was able to not only print the white ink, but also print full colour over the white without any flaking or chipping.

bmagee · Post by **bmagee** » Mon Oct 02, 2006 7:42 am

Good Day modeling gods! Is anyone aware of a tutorial for creating your own decals?? Just the basics....

protorob · Post by **protorob** » Tue Dec 26, 2006 3:30 pm

Hello

Does anybody know how to remove those heavy duty stickers that they place on a RC car?

I bought my wife a 1/6 car for her dolls and she wants to pain it black. Of course, the plastic is thin and I dont want to use any heavy solvent if I can help it.

Kind Regards
Rob...

USSARCADIA · Post by **USSARCADIA** » Tue Dec 26, 2006 3:49 pm

You could treat them like vehicle striping.........Heat them with a hair dryer and peel off what you can. Clean up left over/residue with some WD-40 and a rag(clean WD off with household cleaner).

protorob · Post by **protorob** » Tue Dec 26, 2006 3:59 pm

Thank you very much for such a quick reply! We will try that this afternoon.

Zatchmo · Post by **Zatchmo** » Sat Mar 10, 2007 6:40 pm

hello all,

this being the "everything decals" thread i thought i would ask if anyone had a nice tutorial for applying decals the right way. on all of my past efforts the decals stick out like a sore thumb in any kind of light and it bugs the hell out of me. i've picked up a few things here and there on this forum, but i was hoping for something of a comprehensive how-to on decals.

can anyone help out a fledgling newbie?

Post by **TER-OR** » Sat Mar 10, 2007 11:56 pm

http://www.starshipmodeler.info/wfest2k ... chlist.doc

That's my "watchlist" from a couple years back.
I updated it last year, I'll have to make sure John adds that to the site.

Lt. Z0mBe · Post by **Lt. Z0mBe** » Sun Mar 11, 2007 12:40 am

Zatchmo wrote:hello all,

this being the "everything decals" thread i thought i would ask if anyone had a nice tutorial for applying decals the right way. on all of my past efforts the decals stick out like a sore thumb in any kind of light and it bugs the hell out of me. i've picked up a few things here and there on this forum, but i was hoping for something of a comprehensive how-to on decals.

can anyone help out a fledgling newbie?

How about some clarification on "stick out like a sore thumb?" Do you mean they look silvery?

Here are some general tips. Always apply decals over a glosscoat. Future shot through an airbrush works the best for a glosscoat. I use Future for a setting solution and decal solvent to soften the decals. I also add white glue to my decal water; the decal water should have just enough water to make it milky - like a cereal bowl that's being rinsed out.

I dunk my decals in the water for ten seconds, place them one a towel for 60 seconds or so. I apply solvent to the decal at this point. Just as I am applying the decal to the model, I apply just a tiny amount of Future where the decal will be placed AND WORK QUICKLY to place it!!

I apply the decal with tweezers and a moist cotton swab. I smooth out bubbles with the fold of a tightly folded paper towel. Excess solvent and Future is QUICKLY mopped up with the torn, ragged edge of a torn paper towel (did I mention torn?), so as to quickly wick the excess away.

I hope this helps.

Kenny

Zatchmo · Post by **Zatchmo** » Mon Mar 19, 2007 8:44 pm

interesting, what function does the glue serve in the water?

and where does one get Future Floor Wax, your local WalMart or Home Depot?
i don't suppose testor's gloss clear coat works as well?

Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

Advanced. Decals

Yellow Decals

Re: Yellow Decals

Re: Yellow Decals