cutting styrene parts

SeniorOrtega · Post by **SeniorOrtega** » Tue Dec 26, 2006 9:30 pm

I was wondering what the best way(s) are to cut a styrene model (in order to remove panels and such).

I have been using just a hobby knife to slowly cut a line into the material surrounding a panel. I was just wondering if there are better methods/ cleaner ones. thanks

Kylwell · Post by **Kylwell** » Tue Dec 26, 2006 9:49 pm

That or a very fine kerf Dremel saw is about the only way I know of.

You can sometimes grind/file/sand down the back to thin it a bit before scribing the panels out.

Styrofoam_Guy · Post by **Styrofoam_Guy** » Tue Dec 26, 2006 10:41 pm

There are now PE saws that are quite narrow. Try Hobby Link. I have a jewelers type hack saw with a super narrow blade but found it hard getting it to cut straight.

The back side of the EXacto knife works in a pinch.

Alex
Styrofoam Guy

Post by **TER-OR** » Thu Dec 28, 2006 8:49 pm

The SM store sells some PE saws. Often, the best way is to scribe the line first, and then continue/cut out the part. Scribe with a positive guide - like label tape. It may seem like it's taking a long time, but precision is worth the effort.

Tony Agustin · Post by **Tony Agustin** » Thu Dec 28, 2006 9:03 pm

Another way to cut panels into styrene is to drill a series of holes inside or outside the perimeter of the panel you want to cut out at close intervals. Then you can use a sprue cutter to snip away at the material between the holes you drilled. You can than smooth over the rough edges with a series of files and Boom.... you're done.

Jonas Calhoun · Post by **Jonas Calhoun** » Fri Dec 29, 2006 12:00 am

Multiple methods--just like anything. In no particular order:

Those PE saws are pretty sweet.
Back of an X-acto knifeblade in a pinch.
Scribing tool if you don't mind a kerf.
Pin in a knifehandle is slow.
Dremel works, but can be pretty hard to control.
A knifeblade can leave a ridge.

Me, I'd choose between the PE saws and a scribing tool. Especially if the panel is away from the opening--then you wouldn't be able to notice the kerf.

Dan

Shinnentai · Post by **Shinnentai** » Fri Dec 29, 2006 1:24 am

Sewing thread. I kid you not. Learned it from a tutorial about cutting the doors out from one piece car kit bodies. Use a tiny drill bit to make a hole somewere along the line to be cut, thread the thread through (say that ten times fast

), wrap the thread ends around your fingers like dental floss, and saw along the line.

Sounds daft, but it works. You gotta replace the thread every inch or so, but it's much easier to control than a jewler's saw, and with a finer kerf to boot.

modelbaseguy · Post by **modelbaseguy** » Fri Dec 29, 2006 7:51 am

I must have seen the same tutorial as Shinnentai because I now use that technique all the time for opening doors, hoods, hatches and trunks on various vehicles. It really works great and if you get a high grade thread it won't break nearly as fast. The cuts are so thin that rarely if ever need repair just clean them up with super fine sanding sticks and your ready to go. I clamp the thread into my jewler's saw so that I have a hand free to hold the kit part in place.

The process is more like a hot knife than a saw accept that you are using the friction of the thread to create the heat. It does much less damage to your parts that the thinest saw blade but does take some practice to control it well. Good luck on your project SeniorOrtega.

Jonas Calhoun · Post by **Jonas Calhoun** » Fri Dec 29, 2006 12:16 pm

Interesting...would some kevlar thread work better? It's pretty abrasive, and tough...

Dan

modelbaseguy · Post by **modelbaseguy** » Fri Dec 29, 2006 2:41 pm

Dan, I don't know but it is possible though your cut may be a bit rougher than with high quality thread. You see it is not the abrasiveness so much as the heat generated that makes this process work. Actually you are melting the piece into separate pieces and not cutting them. I say give it a shot on some scrap and let us know how it goes.

SeniorOrtega · Post by **SeniorOrtega** » Mon Jan 01, 2007 9:17 pm

I ended up combining a couple methods. I heated up a very thin scalpel blade with a butane torch. They I cut the material as fast as i could. It created some ridges on both the cut out and the original piece. But since the cut out was going to be scrap, it didn't matter. Then I finished the edges off with a hobby knife, and sanded smooth. It worked all right for the first time, but it is a very imprecise/brutal method. I wouldn't recomend it if your going use the panel you cut out.

TREKKRIFFIC · Post by **TREKKRIFFIC** » Mon Jan 08, 2007 12:01 pm

modelbaseguy wrote:Dan, I don't know but it is possible though your cut may be a bit rougher than with high quality thread. You see it is not the abrasiveness so much as the heat generated that makes this process work. Actually you are melting the piece into separate pieces and not cutting them. I say give it a shot on some scrap and let us know how it goes.

Thread to cut plastic ! Who'd have thunk it. Ingenious !

Rio · Post by **Rio** » Mon Jan 08, 2007 2:59 pm

TREKKRIFFIC wrote:
modelbaseguy wrote:Dan, I don't know but it is possible though your cut may be a bit rougher than with high quality thread. You see it is not the abrasiveness so much as the heat generated that makes this process work. Actually you are melting the piece into separate pieces and not cutting them. I say give it a shot on some scrap and let us know how it goes.
Thread to cut plastic ! Who'd have thunk it. Ingenious !

Freakin' eh!!!

I think I might twist thin wires into each other and use that too.
Time to try!
RiÃ¶<*>
Semper Sci Fi!