What kind of tape should I use to create resin windows ?

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Stellar_Expanse
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What kind of tape should I use to create resin windows ?

Post by Stellar_Expanse »

Im going to be creating a lighted Star Trek model...I will be dremeling out the windows and fillling them with clear epoxy...Here is the question...What is the best kind of Tape to use to prevent seeping onto the clean side of the model?
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Re: What kind of tape should I use to create resin windows ?

Post by TREKKRIFFIC »

Stellar_Expanse wrote:Im going to be creating a lighted Star Trek model...I will be dremeling out the windows and fillling them with clear epoxy...Here is the question...What is the best kind of Tape to use to prevent seeping onto the clean side of the model?
I used good ol' Scotch brand Magic tape when I did mine.
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Stellar_Expanse
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Post by Stellar_Expanse »

You didnt have any seeping? I did a USS Defiant about a year ago and used scotch brand masking tape....and the resin seeped through and ruined the model ( It was painted and detailed)....I was disgusted. Ill try the magic tape. Thanks :)
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Post by WarpeD »

I'd like to add a related question - what is the best epoxy (or other substance) with which to make perfectly flush windows?

Perhaps that also affects the weeping process when Scotch Magic Transparent Tape is used.

I still have that rather large fiberglass refit to drill n' fill. This step I find rather scary, expecially since I will then have to mask all those portholes prior to painting. :shock:
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Post by TREKKRIFFIC »

Stellar_Expanse wrote:You didnt have any seeping? I did a USS Defiant about a year ago and used scotch brand masking tape....and the resin seeped through and ruined the model ( It was painted and detailed)....I was disgusted. Ill try the magic tape. Thanks :)
When I did my 18" Enterprise I used this stuff with no problem:

http://www.tapplastics.com/shop/product.php?pid=75&

Of course, I filled my windows before I did the final paint job. Any imperfections could easily be sanded flush with the hull without marring the finish. Of course, that meant I had to mask off any windows where I wanted light to shine thru. I also wasn't worried about the resin being absolutely clear since I laid white decals over the top anyway. The decals help to diffuse the light and your windows will appear to be lit even with the power off.
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Jonas Calhoun
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Post by Jonas Calhoun »

Scotch tape--make it the clear stuff, some of the matt or masking tapes can leave a slight texture.

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Post by Locke_333 »

Scotch tape all the way!! had a few spillage if not firmely pressed against the model... As for resin, i really like the Envirotex lite, it's still soft after 24 hours and can be removed more or less easely with a sharp knife.
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Post by suwalski »

Scotch tape is good. But the Envirotex I can't recommend. The stuff never sets on me. Ever. It remains soft and sticky for months.
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Post by oggy4u »

Besides seeping doesn't the resin generate a lot of heat while it cures?Enough to soften the plastic and cause some warpage???
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Post by Jonas Calhoun »

Unless it's a really large window, it shouldn't generate enough heat--there just isn't enough chemical mixture to do it.

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Post by suwalski »

Seeping is really easy to solve. When applying the tape, just use your fingernail to really make it stick around the edges of the window.

The Scotch matte stuff makes it really easy to see if something is stuck down well.
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Post by macfrank »

I haven't tried this... but why not use the good old masking trick of spraying Future from the inside (where the resin will go) and letting it dry? The Future will act as a barrier for the resin.

Envirotex is easy to work with but it does take a very long time to cure. Other options are Alumilite clear resin (very, very short working time) and clear dental acrylic (usually sold in drug stores as fake nail repair & glue). This stuff is the best - it's as hard as styrene and water clear. The two big disadvantages are the smell (it really is overpowering) and the cost.
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Post by Kenny »

What about NOT epoxy?I use Testors clear parts cement & window maker for similar things. Wipe any excess away with a paint brush or cotton bud.
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Post by TER-OR »

gently mixed 30min epoxy does work. You have to be careful, of course. It's easier to get bubbles in it than the Envirotex, but it does cure much faster.

Some tends to be a bit yellow, though, so be careful and test it first.
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