putty

[Digger1]

Bondo, milliput and aves just ain't cutting it for me. I want something that has zero shrink, something you can use straight from a tube or container and has easy clean-up as in sanding to a flawless surface..

Bondo is easy to sand but shrinks

milliput is just weird. I can't work it without thinning it and when I do that, my fingers get all sticky and fingerprints wind up all over the model. Same thing with the aves.

[Kylwell]

Only thing that's close is Black CA, but even that has issues.

[Jonas Calhoun]

With Aves, keep your hands wet. Or wear gloves, dip 'em in water, alcohol, or safety solvent every so often.

Also, let the aves sit for half an hour or so, it'll get less sticky.

Dan

[Kylwell]

Or go buy a box of non-textured examination gloves (disposable) and use them to work with Aves.

'swat I've started doing.

[Jonas Calhoun]

Which also helps when you sit on your hands, Robb.

I just tried some nitrile gloves after using latex gloves for a while...they both worked equally well from a usability standpoint. If you get the ones with a textured fingertip, it can also make interesting designs--nonskid surfaces, etc.

Dan

[Stubbs]

Go to an auto parts shop (like a Pep Boys or Auto Zone) and pick up some "Red Glazing Putty". It's a big tube, cheap as hell, dries fast, doesn't shrink (at least, not if you're filling NORMAL gaps), dries quick, and sands easily.

[CaptainHawk1]

Go to an auto parts shop (like a Pep Boys or Auto Zone) and pick up some "Red Glazing Putty". It's a big tube, cheap as hell, dries fast, doesn't shrink (at least, not if you're filling NORMAL gaps), dries quick, and sands easily.

Yeah, that's made by Bondo. I don't have a problem with it shrinking, but my problem is that it dries so friggin' fast and I don't know how to ger rid of the pockets of air.when I use a spreader to smooth of the excess, there's allways too mouch that winds up coming up.

-Shawn

[didihno]

Go to an auto parts shop (like a Pep Boys or Auto Zone) and pick up some "Red Glazing Putty". It's a big tube, cheap as hell, dries fast, doesn't shrink (at least, not if you're filling NORMAL gaps), dries quick, and sands easily.

Yeah but is it slow drying?

[Loachnut]

[/quote]Yeah, that's made by Bondo. I don't have a problem with it shrinking, but my problem is that it dries so friggin' fast and I don't know how to ger rid of the pockets of air.when I use a spreader to smooth of the excess, there's allways too mouch that winds up coming up.

-Shawn [/quote]

I use the same stuff. When I need a little extra drying time or to get rid of bubbles, I mix in a little Isopropyl Alcohol.


Jody

[Less Than Super Ostrich]

Welcome to the WONDERFUL WORLD OF MORI MORI. Love the stuff. Zero shrink. Sandable. Stronger than Bondo. And the consistency is easier to work with than Bondo or Squadron Green. It's just heaven.... and you can find it at your local neighborhood starshipmodeler.com store!!

[TREKKRIFFIC]

Have you tried this :

http://www.hlj.com/product/TAM87052

I use it all the time. The smooth type dries more slowly than the quick-cure. You can use denatured alcohol to make it more liquid and smooth it out with your finger, cotton swab, microbrush, or a spatula type dental tool for an extemely smooth finish requiring minimal sanding. Dries hard as a rock and doesn't shrink. I use it on all my models especially where I need added strength. It's expensive though if you are trying to fill in a large area. Good thing is, a little goes a long way.

[k-dog]

i sometimes use white glue as it is easy to work with smooths nice and dries clear can be painted over with all types of paint no problem

[Jonas Calhoun]

Baba, is your only complaint about Aves that it's sticky?

Dan

[CaptainHawk1]

Go to an auto parts shop (like a Pep Boys or Auto Zone) and pick up some "Red Glazing Putty". It's a big tube, cheap as hell, dries fast, doesn't shrink (at least, not if you're filling NORMAL gaps), dries quick, and sands easily.

Yeah but is it slow drying?

what's your defiintion of slow?

The outer part dries within minutes, which makes it kind of difficult to deal with but it takes a godd 24 hours to dry allthe way through.

-Shawn

[Mr. Badwrench]

Bondo soptting and glazing putty can be cut with and smoothed with liquid model cement. I keep an old bottle of Ambroid ProWeld around for just this purpose. Thinning the putty will slow the drying time a bit, and you can smooth it out repeatedly until it cures. Of course the more you cut it, the more it will shrink as it cures. But if you are using so much red Bondo that shrinkage becomes a problem, you're using the wrong putty for the job. It's a spot putty, not a filler. Good for pinholes and seams.

I've learned recently, (very recently, like in the past week), that sometimes bad seams can't be fixed by putty, no matter what putty you're using. The putty isn't the problem. Take two fuselage halves as an example. They glue together well, leaving a tiny, almost invisible seam line. Almost invisible being the operative term. Because no matter how much filling and sanding you do, it is still visible through the paint. (Or am I the only one who has had this problem?) I think the problem lies in how the two halves are joined together: in a butt joint. Even if the entire length of the joint is cemented together, it is still to fragile to prevent splitting as the model is flexed. I think you can solve this problem by backing the joint with sheet styrene, overlapping the joint by 1/8 inch or more on each side. I'll try this the next time the problem comes up, which may be in two or three weeks.