Some questions from a novice model painter

Hiryu02 · Post by **Hiryu02** » Tue Apr 10, 2007 11:47 am

I have been building models for several years, and have started again recently, after a long hiatus. My experience is mostly with gundam models, as they are a favorite of mine.

In the past, I have only done painting by hand with enamels, and no sanding work, just trimming the flash. And I have been pleased with the turnout, but of course, I mainly painted only details as most of the kits I assembled were cast in the correct colors, or a shade very close to correct.

I want to reach the next level of detail and workmanship, and so Iâ€™ve decided to acquire an airbrush. I decided I want an Iwata, and I will be using Tamiya acrylics.

I do have some questions I hope people will help me with.

First, regarding Tamiya acrylics, are they aqueous/ water-based, or do I need the thinners that they sell as well?

With airbrushes, is a top or bottom-feed preferable?

Is a spray box an absolute necessity? I plan to be painting indoors by a window, as the garage is not suited for this type of work. Or is the relatively small amount of paint used not enough to cause problems.

If the part I am building is already cast in the correct color, or close to it, is it still preferable to fully sand/prime/paint? Or is it sufficient to simply clean off the flash as cleanly as possible? It just sounds like overkill to me to essentially repaint the part in the same color, but then again, Iâ€™m a novice.

Anyway, thatâ€™s about it for now, I look forward to your responses, thanks in advance.

Kylwell · Post by **Kylwell** » Tue Apr 10, 2007 12:01 pm

Tamiya can be thinned with water and/or alchohol but I perfer to just use Tamiya's thinners.

Top or bottom tends to be a personal choice. I perfer bottom becasue I shoot straight from the bottle usually.

Vent booth is very handy, even with acrylics. If you're not spraying with a booth at least get a decent respirator and try to work in a ventilated area.

I paint everything. But I'm also a bit masocistic. I rarely prime tho'. Again, something of a personal choice.

Hiryu02 · Post by **Hiryu02** » Tue Apr 10, 2007 2:42 pm

Many thanks for the quick reply, Kylwell.

Species5618 · Post by **Species5618** » Tue Apr 10, 2007 3:52 pm

Kylwell, Kylwell, he's our man! If he can't answer it, no one can!

Hiryu02 · Post by **Hiryu02** » Tue Apr 10, 2007 7:39 pm

Well, now for another airbrush query:

I'm looking at purchasing one of these three:
Iwata Revolution CR
http://www.iwata-medea.com/products/air ... r_info.jsp

Iwata Revolution BCR
http://www.iwata-medea.com/products/air ... r_info.jsp

Iwata Eclipse HP-CS
http://www.iwata-medea.com/products/air ... _specs.jsp

Which do you recommend? Also, should I be going for a .5 or .35mm nozzle, seeing as I will be doing mainly model painting, not freehand art per se. Anyway, thanks in advance for any advice.

Saturn · Post by **Saturn** » Tue Apr 10, 2007 8:21 pm

The Eclipse's nozzle is easier to clean than the Revolution's, but the Eclipse costs more. I prefer gravity-fed ABs versus siphon-fed- so either CS or CR would be my choice. (and the 0.5mm nozzle is fine for general coverage)

But that 1/3oz cup is pretty huge. My thumb up to the first knuckle fits in there- and that's a lot of paint.

Kun2112 · Post by **Kun2112** » Tue Apr 10, 2007 9:17 pm

I have two of those airbrushes: the Revolution BCR and the Eclipse HP-CS. From my experience, there are pluses and minuses to both. So here's a break down of my opinion...
Revolution BCR
Pros: About as bomb-prof as you can get, very forgiving especially with a good compressor. If I am doing anything of decent size, I reach for this one first. great for coverage even with MM Metalizers
Cons: Can be a bit of a pain cleaning in-between colors. Wasted paint a problem when doing small-ish parts and switching colors; need to mix enough paint for it to siphon
Eclipse HP-CS
Pros: Excellent for fine detail work and areas of moderate coverage. Tendancy to waste less paint with the paint cup. Paint cup capacity is large enough to paint almost any 1/72 size fusalage. very easy in-between colors cleaning--just wipe out the cup, fill it with thinner and drain the cup.
Cons: Gotta be careful with the lid to the paint cup--accidents will happen but goof off, a good carpet cleaner, and lots of elbow grease will eventually get enamels out of carpet.

The bottom of the cup tends to collect paint and can be difficult on the daily clean. The channel for the needle behind the paint cup will collect paint while using the airbrush; cleaning the needle will not always be enough and it can be a major PITA to clear that channel to allow for effortless needle travel when it does happen.

One more word of advise RE: Tamiya Acrylics. When you think you have then thinned enough, thin them some more....and just a little bit more to be on the safe side. Tamiya's have a tendancy to "splatter" if not thin enough.

Post by **TER-OR** » Wed Apr 11, 2007 8:45 pm

I've been playing around with a Revolution and I like it. It's a good all-purpose brush. I didn't think I'd like the big integral cup, but that cap sold me. I'm a convert. I still think my Omni 3000 is more flexible, but I'm coming around.

I wouldn't mind getting an eclipse to play around with.

Post by **TER-OR** » Wed Apr 11, 2007 8:50 pm

Oh, on the Tamiya acrylics. Their flat paints are FRAKKING FLAT. Way too flat for most of my work. I've taken to using Gunze or Tamiya gloss or semi-gloss paints and adding a bit of Flat Base to make them semi-gloss. This helps their coverage, but doesn't look like liquified chalk.

I think with 99% Isopropyl alcohol. If I have to thin a lot, like for detail work, I'll use alcohol and water, as the alcohol tends to dry a little fast for my taste.

Make sure you clean your kits well. PolyScale makes a plastic cleaner which is great for that last cleaning. It helps reduce static, too.

If you're using resin and metal on your plastic kit, make sure you prime, the paint doesn't cover all those medias equally. I have never had any problem with acrylic paint adhesion on properly cleaned plastic models. If you mask, though, like for camo or multiple colors, make sure you apply a thin coat of Future between coats. This will ensure the tape does not pull any paint up, and will also prevent any tape adhesive residue.

Oh, use Tamiya's masking tape. It's silky yellow goodness will keep you happy forever.

Hiryu02 · Post by **Hiryu02** » Wed Apr 11, 2007 11:26 pm

Thanks again for all the helpful info, I'm just trying to decide between the Revo and the Eclipse now. I appreciate all the extra tips, every bit of info helps, as this is very new to me.

I am now scouring ebay for an air compressor. Should I be looking for an "airbrush" branded compressor? Or is a generic one fine? Do I need ti get one that can be repaired easily, or are they pretty much disposable after their given lifespan?

Again, any info is much appreciated.

Kylwell · Post by **Kylwell** » Thu Apr 12, 2007 9:20 am

The better the compressor the longer it will live. Mine is 15+ years old, never done a stitch of maintenaince to it and it still runs like a champ.

Tool compressors can spit oil into the line, tools like it, airbrushes do not.

Get one with an auto shut off. And AB compressors don't have to run as high of a compression as tool compressors (unless you like spraying at 100psi). And look for silent. Quiet compressors cost more but the neighbors will like you more.

Ti Raven · Post by **Ti Raven** » Thu Apr 12, 2007 10:34 am

Gospel truth!

TREKKRIFFIC · Post by **TREKKRIFFIC** » Thu Apr 12, 2007 12:11 pm

And when you get frustrated using acrylics because they dry so dang fast try switching to enamels. I love enamels because. among other things, they LOVE plastic. More toxic to work with than acrylics but slower drying and very durable.

Oh... and if you are looking for an inexpensive compressor I got one for about $40.00 on sale at Harbor Freight. Has a moisture trap, pressure gauge, and on-off switch. Puts out 22-30 PSI without making a lot of noise. Not the highest quality out there (found out it's made in China) but is fine for the amount of spraying I do.

Good luck !

Kylwell · Post by **Kylwell** » Thu Apr 12, 2007 12:42 pm

Never had an issue with acrylics drying too fast. You want fast, try Gouache.

Less toxic, easier clean-up, faster drying (which means you can put the second coat on even faster).