Burn paint

Kylwell · Post by **Kylwell** » Wed Mar 14, 2007 4:33 pm

Ok, weathering gurus, how does one simulate heated & burnt paint? I'm talking paint that's been burned off the metal. I'm guessing just a fade from paint to blackened paint to burnt metal to metal.

But, is there a quick & dirty way to simulate such a thing?

Lt. Z0mBe · Post by **Lt. Z0mBe** » Wed Mar 14, 2007 10:32 pm

Have you tried a match head?

Set it on the plastic and light it. Some swear by this one. I've never tried it, though.

What I do, and you've seen my stuff up close, so judge fer yerself, is to place black pastel on the very tip of a cotton swab. I then try to drill through the flat color coat with the swab. The creates a mean, nasty blotch on the color. Then, on the OPPOSITE side the offending impact came from, I pull slightly away from the center of the scorched area. I also will then make feather back around to the side of incidence to make a lovely "Bounce" effect to the impact. Since the area is now a little "crusty," you can then hit it again with silver pencil dust, regular pencil lead, and grey and white pastel dust to give the charring look you want.

I got the idea from watching micrometeorite impact tests on ballistic cloth in Astronomy class in college. The impact "feathered" away from the incidence side of the impact.

I hope this helps.

Kenny

Kylwell · Post by **Kylwell** » Wed Mar 14, 2007 10:34 pm

Ah, I need burnt paint from engine heat. Kinda like what the Thunderchief would do.

CaptainHawk1 · Post by **CaptainHawk1** » Fri Mar 16, 2007 11:16 am

Kylwell wrote:Ah, I need burnt paint from engine heat. Kinda like what the Thunderchief would do.

I'm thinking you could get the effect you are talking about doing a salt weathering and then drybrushing your soot burn marks around the edges.

-Shawn

Kun2112 · Post by **Kun2112** » Fri Mar 16, 2007 6:52 pm

Have you seen the Tamiya Weathering Master D set?
scroll down until you see the exhaust pipes, they have videos too. I just ordered a set from my LHS for experimentation. Don't know if this is what you're looking for, but... the D set has blue burn and red burn tints as well as "oil stain"

Post by **TER-OR** » Sat Mar 17, 2007 7:57 pm

When I did an F-100 years ago, I painted the engine area in metals, and gave it an multi-hued tone. Then heavy glosscoat (future), then dark black/green, then the colors. I sanded with superfine sanding stick/pads through the paint into the layers below.

But, as you can see here, the paint kind of sublimated instead of cooking.
http://www.f-100.org/images/f-100c_41925.jpg

Kylwell · Post by **Kylwell** » Sat Mar 17, 2007 7:59 pm

Ah, well that makes thing easier.

Maybe.

Still muddling my way through it.

MillenniumFalsehood · Post by **MillenniumFalsehood** » Fri Mar 23, 2007 2:46 pm

My method is to start with silver or chrom then switch to brass, then dark brown, and finally flat black.

publiusr · Post by **publiusr** » Fri Mar 23, 2007 4:25 pm

I wonder if anyone ever used a cutting laser on a model already painted up...

bluesman · Post by **bluesman** » Mon Apr 02, 2007 3:41 pm

Robb,

I have no advice to offer, but I would refer you to photos of an F-100.

F-100's in Viet Nam were green and brown camo, but at the aft section by the engine the green paint burned away and the bare metal was exposed.

Bar · Post by **Bar** » Fri Apr 13, 2007 7:57 am

I usually airbrush the sooty marks, and then drybrush the silver on top. Sometimes, you can also put in a little rust, like inbetween the time when the engine is running, the corrosion is setting in.
It may be an extreme example(And mine was supposed to be scorch marks from blaster fire), but i did the same thing on an Arc-170 model.

Post by **LindaSmile** » Fri Apr 13, 2007 9:18 am

These might help.

Linda