Primers & Airbrushes

[talon]

So I'm looking to get a new primer, something I can spray from my airbrush that wont eat the brush or the styrene or resin and that I can sand when I need to and such. I've used Testors 3oz Spray Gray Enamel Primer until now, but I've been told there's better out there, so what should I use? It doesn't HAVE to be from my airbrush; it can be a spray bomb can, but I've heard its easier to control from an airbrush, just like paints. Also it would probably help: I MOSTLY use Acrylic paints.

[talon]

Bueller? Bueller? Has anyone seen Bueller?

[Kylwell]

I've used both Gunze Mr Sufacer 1000 and 1200 though an airbrush thinned with Mr. Leveling Thinner.

Or, if you want something a little easier, try Valejo's Grey Primer.

[Jonas Calhoun]

Since I've started using the Mr. Surfacer products, I really don't use anything else for priming.

However, before I saw the light, Acryl gray primer worked well through my airbrush, as did the Floquil primer.

Which airbrush do you have? Most I wouldn't worry about spraying lacquers through, but some do have o-rings that can get damaged if you leave it in there long enough.

Dan

[Gunnie]

I use Tamiya Acrylics for primer coats, under ModelMaster Acryl and Polly Scale Acrylic paints.

I cut the Tamiya Acrylics 80% with Lacquer Thinner, and shoot them through the Paasche VL, Badger 150 and Iwata's Revolution airbrushes. I have never had an O-Ring mishap, but I also don't immerse the airbrushes or parts for a long time in Lacquer Thinner, nor take them apart for cleaning. I use the backflush technique for cleaning, and frequently spray clean thinner through the brush during extended painting sessions.

Hope this helps...

[zysurge]

Backflush technique? Haven't heard of it. Please explain...

[Kylwell]

To backfluch your brush, press down on the tigger, place you finger against the nozzle end blocking the outflow of air forcing it into the paint cup.

Can be messy.

[Gunnie]

Backflushing is done by placing either a rag, your finger or a pencil eraser over the tip of the airbrush to redirect the airflow back into the bottle when you depress the trigger.

I do this with a jar of Lacquer Thinner. I blow it through for a few seconds into an Airbrush Thinner Trap (like the one sold by Testors), and then place my finger or a rag on the opening to blow the contents left inside the tip and around the needle back through the airbrush body and into the jar to collect residue/sludge.

I only have to do this a couple of times to clean out the airbrush completely for either a color change or ending your painting session. The technique is easy and keeps your airbrush clean. You can backflush into a color cup - but remember to cap it off too, else you'll get a spectacular mess.

[TER-OR]

If you're just painting styrene, you don't need a primer.

Otherwise, I just use Mr Surfacer from the spraycan.
On metal minis, I use Citadel or Armory or Surfacer.

[Lt. Z0mBe]

I use Krylon automotive primer, decanted into an airbrush container. It will stick to anything. I add a drop or two of lacquer thinner.

I hope this helps.

Kenny

[TimeScape]

I've used both Gunze Mr Sufacer 1000 and 1200 though an airbrush thinned with Mr. Leveling Thinner.

Or, if you want something a little easier, try Valejo's Grey Primer.

Having trouble locating Mr Leveling Thinner, is there anything else that can be used?

[Kylwell]

You can use regular lacquer thinner, or the regular Gunze lacquer thinner. The Mr. Leveling Thinner just works the nicest.

Ask Blappy, he's the one who turned me on to it.

[TimeScape]

Thanks, Kylwell. Trying something new as I do not usually use primer except for the main colour but I've noticed that with resin, the paint lifts with the masking. Hope this will work better.

[Zen-Builder]

The Mr. Leveling thinner has the retarder already added in.

You can use standard Mr Thinner and add the Mr. Retarder Mild to get the same results.

HTH.