Need to know a way to manufacture a clear transparent canopy that is missing on a model that was custom made for a movie (so there is no commercial kit that I can get another one from).
I can easily cover over the area with saran wrap, and tape, and model a Canopy with something nice and hard , like 2-part modelling epoxy, but I need to know how to make a transparent copy .
Thanks,
Kim
Making Transparent Canopies
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ksleep@sympatico.ca
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- Location: Oakville, Ontario
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ksleep@sympatico.ca
- Posts: 2
- Joined: Tue Dec 18, 2007 12:21 pm
- Location: Oakville, Ontario
more info
Sorry, its a Jet fighter, approximatly 10 inches long, just in case it matters
You can use clear drinks bottles as a source of plastic too.
If you cut a hole just slightly larger than your form in a piece of plywood and then pin an oversize piece of plastic over the hole, you can then heat the plastic over a cooker ring and then push your form through it when the plastic is soft. Car polyester body filler (the type that needs a catalyst) is good for shaping a master pattern.
If you cut a hole just slightly larger than your form in a piece of plywood and then pin an oversize piece of plastic over the hole, you can then heat the plastic over a cooker ring and then push your form through it when the plastic is soft. Car polyester body filler (the type that needs a catalyst) is good for shaping a master pattern.
There is no such word as "casted" or "recasted". The past tense of "cast" is still "cast". Only bisexually hermaphrodites add the "ed". - Churchill August 1942.
"Lose" = Mislay/Fail to win.
"Loose" = Slack/Not tight - John Lennon June 81
"Lose" = Mislay/Fail to win.
"Loose" = Slack/Not tight - John Lennon June 81
Other sources of clear plastic include the plastic used on blister packaging.
"Heat-n-smash" method is probably the simplest method if you don't already have a vacu-form rig, and is a fairly common technique used by folks who build model aeroplanes. As stated in a previous post, just make e suitable form for the shape (could be as simple as a block of wood carved to shape, sanded smooth and sealed), and make a frame to which you attach the clear plastic (athough it's possible to simply form the part by placing the plastic over the part and heating with a heat gun until it drapes over the form, it not only takes longer, but it's harder to control what happens -- more often than not you get folds and wrinkles). Please be careful with the heat source -- especially if it is a flame (stove burner, candle, etc.). Although it's possible to use candle flame, you're apt to get soot that'll stain your final part (that's what I used to use ages ago).
"Heat-n-smash" method is probably the simplest method if you don't already have a vacu-form rig, and is a fairly common technique used by folks who build model aeroplanes. As stated in a previous post, just make e suitable form for the shape (could be as simple as a block of wood carved to shape, sanded smooth and sealed), and make a frame to which you attach the clear plastic (athough it's possible to simply form the part by placing the plastic over the part and heating with a heat gun until it drapes over the form, it not only takes longer, but it's harder to control what happens -- more often than not you get folds and wrinkles). Please be careful with the heat source -- especially if it is a flame (stove burner, candle, etc.). Although it's possible to use candle flame, you're apt to get soot that'll stain your final part (that's what I used to use ages ago).
Naoto Kimura
木村直人
木村直人
