Hi folks,
I'm about to assemble my first lighted model. It uses a number of 3-5mm round lensed LEDs, poking out of holes countersunk from the inside of the model.
I expect I should do the electronics, build the subassemblies, then paint them, then connect the wires between the subassemblies, then glue everything together. This means I have to mask the LEDs.
I've scrounged around the site, and white glue looks as if it might be an acceptable mask. Does this sound reasonable? I'll be spraying acrylics.
Also, I would guess I should leave the things masked until after the final shot of Future and matte. Does that make sense? I suspect I could use my X-acto with a nice, sharp blade to remove the mask.
Thanks as always for your wisdom!
Jeff
tips for masking LEDs for painting?
Moderators: Sparky, Moderators
-
- Posts: 3204
- Joined: Wed Feb 02, 2005 7:37 pm
- Location: Fremont, CA (near Milpitas north of Golfland USA)
- Contact:
- DLMatthys
- Posts: 2707
- Joined: Fri Jul 12, 2002 9:45 pm
- Location: "Fracking? Not in my back yard. Now get off my ranch!
- Contact:
Jeff,
You have already presented the correct and best procedures to accomplish.
Ya' nailed it dude!
One more trick I can add...I have discovered it to use a proper diameter punch of your choice to get a round disc punched out from Tamiya Masking tape. So thin it is and conforms well to stick on top of curves like the 3mm LEDs and smaller flared ends of Fiber Optics that project out a bit from the model surface. A sharp, clean edge is the result.
Caveot is...This may cause you invest in tools to add to your model skills arsonel.
Carry on!
You have already presented the correct and best procedures to accomplish.
Ya' nailed it dude!
One more trick I can add...I have discovered it to use a proper diameter punch of your choice to get a round disc punched out from Tamiya Masking tape. So thin it is and conforms well to stick on top of curves like the 3mm LEDs and smaller flared ends of Fiber Optics that project out a bit from the model surface. A sharp, clean edge is the result.
Caveot is...This may cause you invest in tools to add to your model skills arsonel.
Carry on!
Thanks all for your suggestions!
Don, what I'm leaning towards now is one coat of the base color before assembly to make sure I get the area area around the LEDs, then assembly, then masking using tape as you suggested (I bought a cheap set of punches from AC Moore) and then the final coat.
Thanks again! I'll post updates in the Bench forum.
Jeff
Don, what I'm leaning towards now is one coat of the base color before assembly to make sure I get the area area around the LEDs, then assembly, then masking using tape as you suggested (I bought a cheap set of punches from AC Moore) and then the final coat.
Thanks again! I'll post updates in the Bench forum.
Jeff
- DLMatthys
- Posts: 2707
- Joined: Fri Jul 12, 2002 9:45 pm
- Location: "Fracking? Not in my back yard. Now get off my ranch!
- Contact:
Good Jeff,
A decent puch for example is one of them wheel punches that you can flip around with different sizes.
I forgot to mention that you should lay out a strip of tape on plastic sheet stock. Use the punch with enough force to cut through the tape, not the plastic card. The disk of tape will remain on the card stock ready to be picked up with the tip of a fresh sharp #11 blade to place on your windows or LEDs.
A decent puch for example is one of them wheel punches that you can flip around with different sizes.
I forgot to mention that you should lay out a strip of tape on plastic sheet stock. Use the punch with enough force to cut through the tape, not the plastic card. The disk of tape will remain on the card stock ready to be picked up with the tip of a fresh sharp #11 blade to place on your windows or LEDs.