Anyone try using pencils to bring out detail?

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Callandor
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Anyone try using pencils to bring out detail?

Post by Callandor »

I am experimenting with various weathering techniques to bring out some of the detail in the maquis raider model I am working on. Has anyone tried using a pencil (graphite, charcoal, etc.) to trace some of the finer detail? I thought I read about someone doing this once, but I don't remembeer much about it. Suggestions?
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Post by Ralgha Nar Hhallas »

IIRC model builders from ILM used pencils to draw panel lines on the Star Destroyer models. It is certainly an intersting way to flesh out panel lines without the worry of overdoing a wash (since you're not doing one). Pencil lines, however will fade away over time, depending on the intensity of light in the area where you'll display the model, so it's not a lasting finish.

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Callandor
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Post by Callandor »

Will a clear coaat prevent the lines from fading?
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Post by DX-SFX »

Actually, this was a technique used by the Anderson model makers in the early sixties. Drawing panel lines on with a pencil was one thing but you can get another effect to show weeping joints. Scribble some pencil lead near the edge of a sheet of paper. Offer the edge of the sheet of paper up to the model along a panel line and then starting with your finger in the pencil scribble, push your finger off the paper onto the model. Your finger will make a dirty smudge in the direction of movement. Keep your smudges running in the direction of any slipstream or gravity. Also you need to pull the paper away from the panel line slightly as the step down from paper to model often leaves a clean gap before the smudge begins. You can also do away with the paper completely. Draw the panel line in pencil and then smudge it with your finger. A little experimentation will soon determine how heavy you want to go. A clear fixing coat is a good idea although not necessarily essential.
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Callandor
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Post by Callandor »

Thanks, I had tried a water color wash and I wasn't getting the results I was looking for. I am going to give it a go.
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Post by USSARCADIA »

I used a pencil on my small Pegasus in the lines and then drew on my own lines for more effect(as well as chalks added):

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v72/u ... G_2235.jpg
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Post by Lt. Z0mBe »

For lines, I use pastel and Winsor & Newton ink washes.

With pencils, I use Prismacolor silver and number one lead pencils for chipped paint and worn metal. Looks great and in scale. Make a mistake? Wipe it away with water and a cotton swab.

I hope this helps.

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Post by jxn1138 »

I've tried using those artist's chalk pastel pencils before with pretty good results. The white ones work great for hitting really tiny raised detail. You have to use the soft ones thought, otherwise the effect is too sublte, and disappears.
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Callandor
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Post by Callandor »

ok, so I started detailing some of the panel lines and such and I like the results for the most part. My only complaint is that the graphite pencils have a glossiness that makes the lead "disappear" at certain light angles. Will some kind of clear coat even that out?
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Lt. Z0mBe
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Post by Lt. Z0mBe »

Callandor wrote:ok, so I started detailing some of the panel lines and such and I like the results for the most part. My only complaint is that the graphite pencils have a glossiness that makes the lead "disappear" at certain light angles. Will some kind of clear coat even that out?
A LIGHT clear flat, misted on as you "woosh" the subject through a gentle fog of clear flat will do it. As I said - "LIGHT." :)


Also, you must make the " woosh" sound for it to work.

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Post by kenlilly106 »

A harder pencil will leave a lighter line, but I would not go over 4H in hardness, any more and you might scratch or gouge the paint, a good range to have on hand would be 2B to 4H.

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Post by Antenociti »

i use a B, anything harder and find that you can very easily damage the paintwork.
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Post by seam-filler »

I use technical drafting pencils from Rotring. I use the "F" grade which is intended for use on polyester drafting film.
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Post by Julius Orange »

http://s258.photobucket.com/albums/hh24 ... NITIA_001/

I did all of the gridlines on this Defiant with a pencil and an eraser. I went over the gridlines first with a pencil and then erased all of it. What's left is what you see there and the great thing about it is that you can be as messy as you want and you can't screw it up.
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Post by photoguy »

Check out Derwent INKTENSE colored pencils at your local art store. Works just like their water-colour pencils, BUT, once they dry they are very durable. I've used several of the browns, blacks, and grays, for everything from panel lines, to rust and oil smears. Even after casual handling, the color stays where you put it - no clear coat needed.
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Jason Abbadon
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Post by Jason Abbadon »

Wax based color pencils can be blended with de-natured alcohol- or a "clear blending marker".
You can make a gradient with say, light brown over yellow, and blend it to look nicely weathered.
I use this on small-scale ships and it looks pretty good- I use pencils to highlight panel lines- and to add additional panels where scribing would be off-scale (2500th scale and smaller should only have major hull panels scribed: if that!).
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Post by mightymax »

I have used color pencils (especially white) to detail instrument panels in model plane cockpits. I also used a drafting lead holder with 2H lead to draw over raised panel lines. Just hold the tip kind of at an angle and draw it along the panel line. Seal with clear.

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Post by CaptBillD »

I used plain old #2 pencil to weather an old Monogram BSG many years ago. Looked pretty good too.
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Post by Arsenic Hipster »

I haven't used them for panel lines but larger areas of scorching, smudges of leaky stuff and just highlighting raised detail and edges. I had some old watercolour pencils that were no good because the lead was broken every 5-10mm. While painting the larger Kazon ship I used a knife to scrape off the lead into a small pile of powder from the black and brown ones (and later an ordinary 3B graphite pencil). Then using my finger I rubbed it along the areas I wanted it. It worked well and didn't run when I gave it a clearcoat.

I suppose it'd work for anything that could be ground to a powder like consistency (watercolour paint, pastels, chalk etc). Depending on how much you rubbed it on and how fine the particles are the results varied from a fairly even gradient to the larger chunks leaving scratches.
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