1701-A Saucer Section

BrianL74 · Post by **BrianL74** » Mon Sep 01, 2008 6:29 pm

Hello,

HELP!

I am building my first BIG model starship. Everything is going great except for one thing.

The Saucer section of my Polar Lights USS Enterprise NCC 1701-A refit will not stay on the rest of the ship. The glue dries. Everything is fine. Then one day it just separates. The little pegs on it have snapped as a result but the remaining glue is actually dry.

Pictures are attached, but keep in mind it is still a work in progress.

I am using standard model glue from Testors (the non-toxic kind).

http://www.brianleadingham.com/Enterprise/IMG_3169.jpg

http://www.brianleadingham.com/Enterprise/IMG_3179.jpg

http://www.brianleadingham.com/Enterprise/IMG_3187.jpg

Thanks for any help you can offer!!!!!

mod edited to remove inline images

kenlilly106 · Post by **kenlilly106** » Mon Sep 01, 2008 7:01 pm

That model is pretty big, so there's a lot of stress on that particular glue joint.

Non-toxic glues are pretty weak due to their formulation with a lack of strong solvents.

I'd use an epoxy on that joint, clean off all the old glue on the mating surfaces first, then apply it to one side of the mating surfaces, clamp/brace as required, then come back 24 hours later. Do not move the model during this period.

Nice work! Care to share any details of the build?

Ken

BrianL74 · Post by **BrianL74** » Mon Sep 01, 2008 7:24 pm

Thank you. That's what I was thinking, but didn't know for sure epoxy would work. I'll give it a try.

The build was basically according to instructions with the kit. Nothing special. However, I did use masking tape to mask off while painting. Whenever possible, I used spray paint instead of brush paint.

I don't have a special set up or anything to do the work, but I do have a small table and magnifying lamp to work with.

This one still needs some fill-in and decal work as well as touch ups here and there. I'm not wild about the stand, but I don't really know how to build anything better.

I'll try to document the next few models.

Thanks for your help.

Mr. Badwrench · Post by **Mr. Badwrench** » Tue Sep 02, 2008 3:36 am

Since the locating pins broke, you can replace them with stronger pins. Using a pin vise and a small drill bit, drill holes where the old pins used to be, and into the spots where they have broken off. Then at your hobby shop, look in the RC car and plane section. They should have some small diameter graphite fiber rod, about the size of a pencil lead. Saw off some short sections of this stuff, maybe 3/8" long. Using CA, (super glue), or epoxy, glue them into the newly drilled holes. Before placing the two halves back together, put a drop of epoxy in the holes on the other half too. Finally, dab some epoxy on the joint between the two parts.

The graphite fiber rods will soak up the epoxy well, and add a lot of strength to the joint. If the hobby shop doesn't have any of that stuff, they should still have brass or aluminum rod. This will work pretty well too, but it doesn't soak up the glue like graphite will. In a pinch, you can even use short sections of paper clip wire, or thick beading wire.

Tuvok · Post by **Tuvok** » Sat Dec 06, 2008 3:56 pm

if your useing the non toxic model glue there is your problem , that stuff is junk , i would reccommend a combination of super glue and testors TOXIC glue. your sauser wont come off again unless you rip it off.

bluesman · Post by **bluesman** » Sun Dec 07, 2008 12:00 pm

Yep, ol testors glue aint gonna hold the saucer on.

I'd go with an epoxy as advised.

walter · Post by **walter** » Sun Feb 08, 2009 8:48 pm

Mr. Badwrench wrote:Since the locating pins broke, you can replace them with stronger pins. Using a pin vise and a small drill bit, drill holes where the old pins used to be, and into the spots where they have broken off. Then at your hobby shop, look in the RC car and plane section. They should have some small diameter graphite fiber rod, about the size of a pencil lead. Saw off some short sections of this stuff, maybe 3/8" long. Using CA, (super glue), or epoxy, glue them into the newly drilled holes. Before placing the two halves back together, put a drop of epoxy in the holes on the other half too. Finally, dab some epoxy on the joint between the two parts.

The graphite fiber rods will soak up the epoxy well, and add a lot of strength to the joint. If the hobby shop doesn't have any of that stuff, they should still have brass or aluminum rod. This will work pretty well too, but it doesn't soak up the glue like graphite will. In a pinch, you can even use short sections of paper clip wire, or thick beading wire.

In the model train shops there is some very little nuts and bolts you may be able to bolt it on.

ashrond · Post by **ashrond** » Thu Feb 12, 2009 10:35 am

I detest blue testor’s tubes...

crowe-t · Post by **crowe-t** » Wed May 06, 2009 2:25 pm

kenlilly106 wrote:That model is pretty big, so there's a lot of stress on that particular glue joint.

Non-toxic glues are pretty weak due to their formulation with a lack of strong solvents.

I'd use an epoxy on that joint, clean off all the old glue on the mating surfaces first, then apply it to one side of the mating surfaces, clamp/brace as required, then come back 24 hours later. Do not move the model during this period.

Nice work! Care to share any details of the build?

Ken

What about a plastic weld(i.e. - Plastruct, Tamiya) cement? I've found that it melts the plastic together at the seam. Isn't a plastic weld cement better when gluing styrene to styrene?!