Omega Resin Model Question.....AAAAAARGH!!!

[marcus0311]

Ok, I've had the Omega model for about two years now. Today I pulled it out and started the DREADED process of cleaning the mold release off the parts. WHAT THE @$*&!!!! The release CRAP doesn't want to come off!! I soaked the first batch of parts in simple green for over two hours. Then I removed the parts from the pan and warmed the cleaner in the microwave, put them back in and scrubbed with a tooth brush, then green scrub pad, then a finger brush, AND IT STILL WON'T ALL COME OFF!!!! I've got a few other resin models that were easy to clean, but this one...........Any ideas or suggestions are definatley welcome.

[TER-OR]

When I did the WARP Stargate kit it was the same thing. Nicely sculpted, acceptably cast, but the mold release was pure brimstone.

I wound up using acetone to remove it. I did this in the garage with a box fan pulling the air away from me, directly outside. I hate to release that much VOC to the air, but...

A nylon toothbrush was fine for cleaning.

[kenlilly106]

If you don't want to go the solvent route (and you still may have to in the end), I'd suggest either Wesley's Bleach White or Super Clean (formerly Castrol Super Clean).

Both cleaners are on the caustic side, so you'll have to wear protective gloves because you don't want them on bare skin, there's not a problem with toxicity or nasty chemical burns, just a few days later the top layer of skin will start to flake off.

Let the parts soak for a few hours and see what happens, in my experience cured resin is not affected by either product.

Ken

[Chacal]

As a rule, whenever I have to try chemicals (like in your mold release release problem), I go from least to most noxious. Before I go to acetone, for example, I try ethanol, then isopropanol, then bleach, then... And instead of dunking the whole thing (if it is a big part, like a hull), I apply the chemical in patches (some paper towel/plastic film 'sandwich' to keep the chemical in contact with the part and not evaporating away). Let it sit, check the progress, apply a bit more, let it sit some more...

[Chacal]

And I forgot to mention: if the part has an 'inside' (like hull halves, for instance) try your cleaners on the inside, so you don't ruin the outside.

[marcus0311]

The parts themselves are molded pretty good. Of course they need the usual tlc that resin kits have to have prior to assembly. The resin used is pretty stout stuff, but the release they used is even more stout. I worked for three hours on about half of the parts and got about 70% of the release off. I have dremel tool with a rotary brush attachment that I'll try. As for the acetone,etc. do they have any effect on the resin. I read in another forum here about leaching, but don't remember as to what chemical it pertains to. Simple Green works with a good amount of elbow greese induced scrubbing. Instead of acetone(gives me REALLY NASTY headaches) would MEK, methyl ethyl ketone work without damaging the resin? Thanks for the help everyone.

[Stu Pidasso]

Why do people even buy WARP kits? All I've heard is bad things about their products. I realize that some of their kits are exclusive and you can't get them anywhere else, but why bother when you know it's going to be a hassle?

[TER-OR]

All good advice - and I tried all kinds of stuff before acetone, believe me. I'd use acetone over MEK or MeCl, though.

And if you do a big honkin' Death Glider, Jimi, I'll buy it from you....