Aves Sculpt cure time? (new problem)

Jonas Calhoun · Post by **Jonas Calhoun** » Mon Oct 23, 2006 3:40 pm

LindaSmile wrote:If you're having trouble with alcohol or whatever, try their safety solvent.

Anyone questioned as to why it's called Safety Solvent?

Read the MSDS on it...it scared me.

Dan

Sparky · Post by **Sparky** » Mon Oct 23, 2006 4:07 pm

Safe for your aves mixing, so you don't ruin a batch and or sculpt you're doing. That's the key thing to protect right

Mark Yungblut · Post by **Mark Yungblut** » Mon Oct 23, 2006 4:24 pm

I have both the saftey solvent and alcohol. I still prefer to us the alcohol. I think it is easier to blend the putty into the surface of the model with alcohol.

Just my 2 cents,

Mark

Lt. Z0mBe · Post by **Lt. Z0mBe** » Mon Oct 23, 2006 11:18 pm

Mark Yungblut wrote:I have both the saftey solvent and alcohol. I still prefer to us the alcohol. I think it is easier to blend the putty into the surface of the model with alcohol.

Just my 2 cents,

Mark

Same here. Alcohol doesn't make it seem all "clabbered."

Kenny

Mark Yungblut · Post by **Mark Yungblut** » Mon Oct 23, 2006 11:28 pm

I have also found that the Alcohol dries faster than the saftey solvent. Thus keeping the putty from getting to "gooy". That is one of the reasons I never use water.

Kylwell · Post by **Kylwell** » Tue Oct 24, 2006 9:01 am

But I like the gooey.

Which is how I found out ho to fill panel lines. Thin with Safety Solvent (or alchohol) and smear into the recessed panel lines and let dry.

macfrank · Post by **macfrank** » Tue Oct 24, 2006 9:25 am

kylwell wrote:But I like the gooey.

Which is how I found out ho to fill panel lines. Thin with Safety Solvent (or alchohol) and smear into the recessed panel lines and let dry.

Thanks! I'm working on something that has trenches for panel lines - I was going to use superglue + baby powder or Tamiya putty to fill them in - neither a great option for these lines. I think the thinned putty will work.

Frank

Digger1 · Post by **Digger1** » Wed Oct 25, 2006 6:56 pm

Ooooh, this is niiice! I puttied the seams between the main hull and the wings of the TOS Romulan BOP and really mixed it thoroughly and used 90% isopropyl alcohol to thin it so it would better "flow" into the seam. I let it stand for 24 hours and just got through sanding it smooth. Never before have I had such a smooth seam before!

Okay, I'm hooked!

Kylwell · Post by **Kylwell** » Wed Oct 25, 2006 7:00 pm

jack wendt · Post by **jack wendt** » Wed Oct 25, 2006 9:42 pm

i mixed about half a thimbel of each part. i was filling an area that will be covered at the back of the cockpit. it is about a 1.5 inches by 1.250 tall. the putty was from 1/8th to 1/4 inch thick.

under a 100 watt bulb 3 inches from the cast, it took less than 45 minutes to cure. i used h20 to smooth this area. the area is not for sculpting, but filling only.

proper mixing and heat means less time.

yes, alcohol is the better of the 2 when actually sculpting.

Mark Yungblut · Post by **Mark Yungblut** » Wed Oct 25, 2006 10:34 pm

Thanks for the heating tip Jack. I forgot to mention that heat can speed the cure time. Just so you all know, if you are working on a metal or white metal kit, 20 min in the oven on warm (125-150 degrees) will cure the putty and not effect the metal.

DennisH · Post by **DennisH** » Wed Oct 25, 2006 10:56 pm

AND DON'T HEAT IT IN THE MICROWAVE!

Bubbling hot, sticky,volcanic goo awaits those who do.

You've been warned!

Seriously.

Dennis

Digger1 · Post by **Digger1** » Thu Oct 26, 2006 6:32 am

and all this time I've been broiling my models

Oh, and lightbulbs make a stinky mess in the microwave.

DennisH · Post by **DennisH** » Thu Oct 26, 2006 11:28 am

Good one, 'ganoosh!

Dennis

Sparky · Post by **Sparky** » Thu Oct 26, 2006 11:39 am

Babaganoosh wrote:and all this time I've been broiling my models

Oh, and lightbulbs make a stinky mess in the microwave.

Not if you screw the base into a potato first. . .Motorola Intern Apartments Summer '99

Yes we really did it, it ligths the light bulb.