) about my TOS Enterprise.I took out my biggest, strongest clamp and clamped down the bridge to the saucer. I then applied the liquid tenax-like liquid cement to the underside of the upper saucer. This was to keep clear of any kind of gap between the B & C decks and the bridge dome and to keep excess glue from oozing out of the seam.
I also used the same clamp to hold the impulse engine thingy in place. It's not the impulse engine itself but the thing that lies atop the saucer and fits the pegs into the holes at the rear of the saucer. I clamped and let some cement seap down into the seam of the parts and a little underneath on the holes. A few minutes later, I took the clamp off and it was perfectly clean. No oozing, no gap. I applied the clamp so the edge was making full length contact with the part being cemented in place.
Found something I missed while installing the nacelles to the pylons. Make sure the slot where the tab will eventually go is trimmed enough to allow it to fit. I'm not talking about the rectangular hole exposing the nacelle interior to the pylon but the structure inside that's shaped like one of the structural "C"s on the inside of the nacelle. One of them is incomplete to allow you to insert the pylon tab and have it lock in place. Make sure its trimmed sufficiently to allow the tab to lock.
Also, on the same nacelle page. Don't try applying the pylon to only one half of the nacelle to get around having to lock it in place. That'll only (well, could) make the nacelle orientation somewhat skewed.
Don't join the saucer halves until you've secured the lower saucer to the neck. Once the lower saucer is in place and locked, apply thick, gap-filling CA glue to the seam around where the tabs of the neck enter the saucer...do this INSIDE the saucer half, not the outside. This will make sure the saucer stays in place. Even seemingly secure pieces have been known to pop off.
I wish you had posted this two nights ago 