Decal Set problem.

[MillenniumFalsehood]

I have a nice model from Hasegawa that I'm ready to decal. So I figured I'd test a new bottle of Solvaset on a decal I could replicate should the worst happen. Unfortunately, it did. The decal is very wrinkly, brittle, and crumbles easily when touched on the edges, but that's not the worst problem. The worst is that the decals didn't snuggle down into the panel lines like they were supposed to. I fear I might have put too much of the stuff on(when I used the Testor's stuff I had to slather it on, and old habits are hard to break). Can anyone confirm this? Also, what's the proper method of putting a decal set on?

[DasPhule]

Solvaset is the hottest one of all the setters, so in my toolbox it's the last resort chemical. Also, once you've put your decal set onto the decal you shouldn't ever touch it, let the chems do their thing and make it lay down on it's own. Apply the decal to where you want it's final resting spot to be, then add the setting solution, sparingly at first to test it's reactiveness to the chemical. Then LEAVE IT ALONE! Don't touch it until it's dry, period.

Fixing what you've got; well, if the decal isn't ripped up you may be able to fix it by applying more solvaset and hoping it flattens out. If you have some, I'd try Micro Set first because it isn't as hot. Sometimes multiple applications can make them lay down, sometimes you end up with a glob of gooey color. This why Solvaset is the chem of last resort, it's really hot stuff!! What's amazing is that some decals aren't even fazed by it, while some are instantly ruined.

Erin
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[Mark Yungblut]

As Phule said Solvaset is pretty caustic as a decal set goes. I use it only on thick decals. It'll ruin many of the new very thin decals. Go with the Microset system the micro sol softens the decal and the set gets the decal to lay down and conform to the surface.

Cheers,

Mark

[DasPhule]

Another route you can go is floating the decals on with Future. So, what you do is put 2 or 3 thin coats of future on with your airbrush, let it dry overnight. Next day you decal. Cut out the decal as normal, dip in water for 5 seconds, let it sit on the table. Make a small puddle of future on the model where the decal is going to go. Apply decal on this puddle and use it like water to move it to where you want it, then use a brush to push out the excess, working from the center of the decal out. Once you've got it to where it won't move around anymore, apply a thin layer of future over the whole decal with the brush, THEN DON'T TOUCH IT!! 10-15 minutes later you see that the future has pulled the decal down and it has blended into the future. Once the whole model is decaled, apply more future with an airbrush to level it all out. Works really well unless the decals are mega thick or if you're applying over deep crevices.

Erin
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[TER-OR]

You have to work quickly with Future, but it's amazing. It's the best way to do stencils etc.

Regarding reviving the decal, Moisten it first with a warm, damp towel. A washcloth is best, or something without much lint. Don't just dump more solvaset on until the decal is actually damp and flaccid. If you want to remove the decal, this is the way to do it as well.

Once it's re-hydrated you can re-apply a little solvaset.

You can nudge and smooth and work the decal around when using solvaset but you have to be careful and it definitely takes a knack, which only comes with experience.

[MillenniumFalsehood]

The decals are pretty well ruined I think, so I'm going to strip them. They're just a couple of black stripes over white, so it won't be too difficult to replicate as a paintjob. I don't want to try Future on this as the main coat is metallic and I think Future would make it look more like a silver paintjob rather than bare aluminum, as Future is too shiny.