Need help removing >*really stuck*< screws.

MillenniumFalsehood · Post by **MillenniumFalsehood** » Tue May 13, 2008 5:00 pm

I have a big problem: I need to remove the chucks from some motor assemblies I ripped from old power tools. They seem to be attached to the shaft by means of a small screw. The problem is I already bent up two screwdrivers trying to remove them, so I really need to know what to do short of cutting the chucks up with a rotary tool(they're plastic).

Any suggestions before I choke myself on plastic fumes?

kenlilly106 · Post by **kenlilly106** » Tue May 13, 2008 6:53 pm

This may sound like a stupid question, but have you tried turning the screw right (clockwise)?

I think most screws like that are left handed threads.

The way to get a hex head chuck screw out is to put an appropriate hex key in it and tap it quickly with a hammer, don't know if you can rig a similar thing up.

Maybe heat the shaft up?

Ken

MillenniumFalsehood · Post by **MillenniumFalsehood** » Tue May 13, 2008 7:28 pm

Hmm. I never tried turning them the *other* way.

I'll let you know how that works.

Mr. Badwrench · Post by **Mr. Badwrench** » Wed May 14, 2008 3:44 am

If you're not worried about saving the screws, just drill them out.

MillenniumFalsehood · Wed May 14, 2008 10:58 am

Well I've got good news and bad news. Good news is the screws *were* left-hand threads, so I was ablt to remove them. The bad news is the chucks still won't come off, and I can't figure out how to remove them. I've been banging on them, but they just wont budge.

I'll have to try something else. . .

Zen-Builder · Post by **Zen-Builder** » Wed May 14, 2008 3:40 pm

I use 2 methods to remove stuck/worn screws.

1.) Impact screw-driver, bassically a must when working on Bikes/cars.

2.) You can also drill a hole in the screw and use a screw extractor set.
Bassically another screw you insert into the worn screw but counter-threaded. So as you tighten it it will unscrew the stuck one.

Not sure what to do about the stuck chucks though.

HTH.

Post by **TER-OR** » Wed May 14, 2008 8:29 pm

Try some Liquid Wrench.
http://www.gunk.com/Lubricants.asp

NNYGamer · Post by **NNYGamer** » Wed May 14, 2008 9:07 pm

Can you see the shaft inside the chuck? If so clamp the chuck in a vice and use a small punch or similar on the end of the shaft to tap it out of the chuck.

MillenniumFalsehood · Thu May 15, 2008 12:51 am

To both TER-OR and NNYGamer, why didn't I think of that?!

Two or three minds are obviously better than one. I'll give both a try.

NNYGamer · Post by **NNYGamer** » Thu May 15, 2008 9:51 am

I've torn apart quite a few things in my day so I'm used to figuring out how to get things apart that shouldn't be taken apart!
Funny thing is I didn't think of liquid wrench even though I had just used some Monday.

Post by **TER-OR** » Fri May 16, 2008 10:09 pm

NNYGamer wrote: Funny thing is I didn't think of liquid wrench even though I had just used some Monday.

Ain't that always the way?

NNYGamer · Post by **NNYGamer** » Fri May 16, 2008 10:11 pm

TER-OR wrote:
NNYGamer wrote: Funny thing is I didn't think of liquid wrench even though I had just used some Monday.

Ain't that always the way?

Yeh since I haven't used it in like a decade!

Scratchawan Learner · Post by **Scratchawan Learner** » Sat May 31, 2008 9:47 pm

I strongly advocate the acquisition of a Machinist's vice to ALL serious modelers... One of the most useful tools a modeler could hope to own, and for so many reasons. When it comes to holding a small (OR large as the case may be) object, so that another object may be removed from it... a good vice is indispensible. My advice is to spend the money on a decent American, European, or Japanese made vice. Chinese vices can be had rather cheaply, but are made of an inferior grade (very soft) of steel. Oh, and spend the extra fifteen dollars...and get the silicon rubber Vicejaw insert pads. No marring of all your hard work... and hence, no need to use language that would shock your Mother. Falsehood, just wondering at what new project these shafts of yours are going to find themselves in? Knowing you, the shafts will be artfully placed, and combined in the finest tradition of ILM greebly mastery... your last effort really made me salivate!

Scratch
P.S. Don't use a hammer to knock the shafts out, when using the pin punch... use a rubber headed mallet. If you miss your target, your less apt to damage something you WEREN'T trying to hit...

Kylwell · Post by **Kylwell** » Sat May 31, 2008 10:45 pm

Like this?

Umi_Ryuzuki · Post by **Umi_Ryuzuki** » Sun Jun 01, 2008 3:29 pm

Kylwell wrote:Like this?

I grabbed this one, and the starter set

The mill was easy, the tooling up can be a pain...

Scratchawan Learner · Post by **Scratchawan Learner** » Sun Jun 01, 2008 6:46 pm

Both of you two bought VERY nice vices, congratulations!
Umi, I'll bet your going to do some amazing things, with that milling machine! Good luck!

Scratch

Umi_Ryuzuki · Post by **Umi_Ryuzuki** » Mon Jun 02, 2008 1:43 am

MF,...

If the drill chucks are not now throughly covered in flammable fluids, ...
A little bit of heat to the chuck might loosen it up.

And yes, the lathe and mill have had some good uses.
Now if I could just learn the CNC side of it, that would be something.

Scratchawan Learner · Post by **Scratchawan Learner** » Wed Jun 04, 2008 3:59 am

On the subject of chucks, and flammable liquids.... hey, the chuck is metal, and there isn't enough flammable liquid on it to burn for long, assumably... light it up!

On a serious note, heat may be the answer indeed... do you have access to a heat gun? I remember reading an article in an ancient copy of Aviation Week and Space Technology... the issue I'm talking about, was printed back in the late sixties, while the first F-14 Tomcats were being manufactured, and Grumman was installing the wing pivots. They heated the sleeves enough to expand the metal minutely...while they chilled the actual pivot pins themselves in buckets of dry ice... then mated the two, and let'em normalise each other's temp, slowly. Machined tolerances are of necessity, a tight squeeze...especially when parts are meant to move against one another, and at a high RPM.

On the subject of CNC machining... Umi, once you DO learn that skill, (skills rather) you definately won't have to look far, to find a well paying job. CNC machinists are in high demand right now. Definately a math intensive field. In a past life, when I worked in a laminate shop, I operated a CNC saw... and that involves translating measurements from the engineering department of the company...who only speak in fractions...and translating all their measurments into decimal points, which is the only measurement language that a computer will accept.
Now, add to this, the fact that the finest measurements I ever had to worry with, were eighths of an inch....and the fact that machining tolerances are in the thousandths of an inch... Ouch. Makes my brain hurt just thinking about it. Computers have come a long way, since 'eighty eight, and that old Hofer saw. On the other hand, once you have the knack of using CNC on a milling machine... there pretty much isn't anything you can't design, prototype, and build.
Best of luck with the education... Scratch

Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

Need help removing >really stuck< screws.

Need help removing >really stuck< screws.

Get a bigger hammer...LOL