Make your own ducts

Got a question about techniques, materials or other aspects of physically building a model? This is the place to ask.

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puddingwrestler
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Make your own ducts

Post by puddingwrestler »

I just found this awesome technique on a car modeling site - looks like it'd be really useful for a lot of things - SF3D, and Steampunk in particular!
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Joseph Osborn
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Post by Joseph Osborn »

Thanks for that link-- I already have a need for something just like that. In my case, though, I'm going to be molding the resulting hose in RTV, so it needs to be fairly durable. I'll need to fill the hose with resin after I establish the shape. I need to look through the rest of those tutorials on that site to see if there are any more gems.
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Post by en'til Zog »

I've tried making my own ducks, but have trouble finding the right feathers.




Oh.....

"DucTs"






:shock:


Still, article looks useful. Tanks!
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Pat Amaral
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Post by Pat Amaral »

en'til Zog wrote:I've tried making my own ducks, but have trouble finding the right feathers.




Oh.....

"DucTs"






:shock:


Still, article looks useful. Tanks!

Meh, ducks are easy. It's the DRAKES I have trouble with. I always run afowl when it comes to color matching :wink:

That technique looks like a good solution for the lousy hoses that come with the speederbike kit. Thanks for sharing.
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Post by Warped Speedster »

Ummm, roast duck. Then an hour of "Loony Toons" after dinner.

Just wondering about the "Polymer Artist Medium." Does it help acrylic paint stick to all teflon, and other weird >stubborn< plastics? Because we all use strange plastics in scratchbuilding now and again.

If so, that will change everything. It would help solve a lot of other painting problems. :idea:
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kitty
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Post by kitty »

You could consider not using the teflon tape and just wrap the wire tightly around the tube, then bend the tube the way it should be at one end, pull the spiral over the bend part of the tube (i use brass tube and transformator wire), then space the spira leaving a gap about the same size as the wire diameter (i use solder on both ends of the wire to fix it to the tube, but you could solder the wire to the tube completely, the solder will flow nicely between the tube and the wire if you heat the tube enough) and apply a thin layer of 1 component polyurethane based laquer or metal basecoat all round it.
It will tend to fill the gaps between the wire spiral and the surface of the tube due to capillary function.
And paint does stick to polyurethane :)
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Chacal
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Post by Chacal »

A good technique to get evenly spaced coils is to wind two wires together, then remove one of them. You'll end up with an evenly spaced spiral, in which the coils are one wire diameter apart (or 2, if you use 3 wires and remove two, and so on).

The best bet is to use solder as the core, as it bends very nicely, and thus use epoxy adhesive—which is somewhat flexible—instead of soldering the wire to the 'rod', which would be very bad for the solder. Slightly less flexible, copper wire can be a good core, as it is more flexible than steel or brass, and can be soldered to other copper wire (the thin, 'coil' wire). If you can find aluminum wire as the core, great, but you'll need to use epoxy, and under no circumstance you should use steel wire around an aluminum core, as they will interact and corrode very quickly.
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