Gunze Primer?
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Gunze Primer?
DoGunze Sangyo produce any primers that are suitable with the Mr Hobby Aqueous paints (on plastic)? Preferably something in an aerosol would be good.
Any advice please?
Alternatively can I just use Tamiya rattle can primer?
Thanks.
Any advice please?
Alternatively can I just use Tamiya rattle can primer?
Thanks.
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- Posts: 1950
- Joined: Fri Jul 12, 2002 7:29 pm
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- Posts: 3924
- Joined: Thu Apr 17, 2003 11:05 am
- Location: Aberdeen, Scotland
As you're in the UK I'd point you to Halford's primers. They are acrylic based and compatible with Mr Hobby Aqueous, Tamiya acrylic, Citadel - in fact almost any acrylic or enamel paint you'd care to metion.
And about 1/3 the cost of any "hobby" primer. I use the grey and white primers all the time. The "Plastic Filler" primer works like Mr Surfacer, but is a tiny fraction of the cost.
And about 1/3 the cost of any "hobby" primer. I use the grey and white primers all the time. The "Plastic Filler" primer works like Mr Surfacer, but is a tiny fraction of the cost.
"I'd just like to say that building large smooth-skinned models should be avoided at all costs. I now see why people want to stick kit-parts all over their designs as it covers up a lot of problems." - David Sisson
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- Posts: 1950
- Joined: Fri Jul 12, 2002 7:29 pm
Sorry, couldn't tell you. I've never tried as I don't use it for seams. I mainly use it because it goes on smooth and doesn't "fuzz up" in the detail areas.Wug wrote:Hi USSARCADIA,
Can you wipe off dried Tamiya primer with 99% isopropyl alcohol? The ability to fill seams without sanding is one of the main reasons to use Mr. Surfacer.
Thanks,
Mike
Did you eat your Chocolate Frosted Sugar Bombs this morning?
No, and last time I check you can't do that with Mr. Surfacer once dried either.Wug wrote:Hi USSARCADIA,
Can you wipe off dried Tamiya primer with 99% isopropyl alcohol? The ability to fill seams without sanding is one of the main reasons to use Mr. Surfacer.
Thanks,
Mike
Though I could be warmed. I usually just worked it with some lacquer thinner, which will take it off.
Abolish Alliteration
Hi Kylwell,
I usually apply Mr. Surfacer to seams with a toothpick and let it dry overnight. I wipe off the excess with a coffee filter soaked in 91% or 99% isopropyl alcohol. At 70% regular rubbing alcohol isn't strong enough to remove Mr.Surfacer.
I can only remember this technique failing once. The Mr. Surfacer might have set for too long or it might have been too thick.
Mike
I usually apply Mr. Surfacer to seams with a toothpick and let it dry overnight. I wipe off the excess with a coffee filter soaked in 91% or 99% isopropyl alcohol. At 70% regular rubbing alcohol isn't strong enough to remove Mr.Surfacer.
I can only remember this technique failing once. The Mr. Surfacer might have set for too long or it might have been too thick.
Mike
I'm not actually in the UK- I recently returned to my home country of New Zealand! So unfortunately there's no Halfords for me anymore!seam-filler wrote:As you're in the UK I'd point you to Halford's primers. They are acrylic based and compatible with Mr Hobby Aqueous, Tamiya acrylic, Citadel - in fact almost any acrylic or enamel paint you'd care to metion.
And about 1/3 the cost of any "hobby" primer. I use the grey and white primers all the time. The "Plastic Filler" primer works like Mr Surfacer, but is a tiny fraction of the cost.
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- Posts: 3924
- Joined: Thu Apr 17, 2003 11:05 am
- Location: Aberdeen, Scotland
Sorry 'bout that - but you're details say "Location: UK", which kinda made me make an assumption or two.
"I'd just like to say that building large smooth-skinned models should be avoided at all costs. I now see why people want to stick kit-parts all over their designs as it covers up a lot of problems." - David Sisson