Sealer over Acrylics
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Sealer over Acrylics
The last 3 models I've done that used acrylic paints, I've had trouble
putting a gloss or dull coat over the paint. I'm using Testers dull coat, gloss coat & Tamiya gloss.
the actual coat looks good, but when I've taped off areas for detail painting and then removed the tape, it sometimes lifts the sealer off the paint leaving uneven spotting.
I've noticed it only happens when I use acrylic paints.
Anyone else have this problem?
Any ideas how to prevent it?
putting a gloss or dull coat over the paint. I'm using Testers dull coat, gloss coat & Tamiya gloss.
the actual coat looks good, but when I've taped off areas for detail painting and then removed the tape, it sometimes lifts the sealer off the paint leaving uneven spotting.
I've noticed it only happens when I use acrylic paints.
Anyone else have this problem?
Any ideas how to prevent it?
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- Beaveranger
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The future becomes your topcoat, unless you want a different finish than you were able to achieve with the future. I have found that I can control the finish I get with Future by how light the coats are. Thin coats = a satin to matte-ish finish... where thicker coats (after initial light coats) = more of a gloss finish. (I spray the Future straight out of the bottle with no thinners.)
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After gloss coating an acrylic paintshotgunlebowski wrote:Like what kind of Marks? I use the tamiya paints on all my builds? Are you Brushing or using an AirBrush.
John
I taped off to do some air brush details
after painting I removed the tape and
the gloss coat came off with the tape.
It leaves a definate ridge you can see where the gloss coat ends.
also the exposed paint has a differant finish than the glossy area surounding it.
But I'll try FUTURE since so many swear by it.
Thanks for the help guys.
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It probably is dry time that is leaving the ridges. I get those when I don't let the first color dry enough before masking and going on to next color.
Usually a thick enough coat of future cures it, with even a light sanding with 600 grit wet/dry sandpaper.
Usually a thick enough coat of future cures it, with even a light sanding with 600 grit wet/dry sandpaper.
Did you eat your Chocolate Frosted Sugar Bombs this morning?
My painting method is usually:
1) Primer - Dupli-Color or Home Hardware Rust Coat alkyd
-wait a day or two-
2) Paint - acrylic or oil-based
-wait a day or two for acrylics, a week for oil-based paints-
3) Gloss seal - Future
-wait a day or two-
4) Decals, and more Future overtop*
-wait a day or two-
5) Dullcoat
I find the most important thing, and the hardest to do, when mixing paint types is to wait. Just walk away. Leave it alone.
* I've had decals yellow from Testors Dullcoat, which is why they get extra Future.
1) Primer - Dupli-Color or Home Hardware Rust Coat alkyd
-wait a day or two-
2) Paint - acrylic or oil-based
-wait a day or two for acrylics, a week for oil-based paints-
3) Gloss seal - Future
-wait a day or two-
4) Decals, and more Future overtop*
-wait a day or two-
5) Dullcoat
I find the most important thing, and the hardest to do, when mixing paint types is to wait. Just walk away. Leave it alone.
* I've had decals yellow from Testors Dullcoat, which is why they get extra Future.
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- BERT aka MODEL MAKER
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That has got to be frustrating having all your hard work ruined when lifting up the tape If you do not have an airbrush, can future be applied to a model by misting it on with a pump spray bottle ? Will it give a smooth finish without spotting & will the future level itself out for a smooth looking finish ?
bert
Model maker
bert
Model maker
BERT
MODEL MAKER
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