Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

crowe-t wrote:I'm also looking at the Iwata Smart Jet and Power Jet Pro. I keep reading good things about the Iwata Compressors.

Does anyone have any thoughts on any of these 2 compressors?

I have the Smart Jet and i love it. Its pretty quiet and easy to use.

I think mr surfacer is about the same as the Tamiya...save the color.

Always...and make sure its a solvent rated respirator.

I have seen people at work with some F'd up lungs due to BOTH acrylic and enamel type paints.

Also, the paint particles that are along with the vapors are the real problem...they will permanently damage your lungs.

Well, i ended up getting an Iwata and it is pretty quiet.

How quiet are the IWATA compressors?

Could someone recommend me a nice quiet one as i live in an apartment. Maybe in the ~$200 range?

I wear a respirator. Though it is an industrial one since i work with the stuff on a daily basis.

I would not recommend doing too much without that though. Soaking might be a bit too much

Stick with the IPA to be sure.

I suppose as long as it was dry enough that it didnt wick out of the joint it would probably work. I know some people use CA glue to do that same type of thing too. I personally use white glue. Then you can shape it before it dries. Or mix a slurry if you need it to flow well I would try it before a...

Acetone will knock it off soon after spraying and before it is super cured. I have not tried IPA. I think an extended acetone or IPA soak would loosen it enough to come off after a full cure, but i would have to test it.

I feel like i have seen Mr Surfacer in white. This may be my imagination though.

I saw that the other day too.

You could try Mr. Surfacer. It appears to be (and smells to be) the same stuff as the Tamiya primer.

The model master stuff works well too...but it goes on much thicker than Tamiya or Mr Surfacer.

That may well be the difference. Hey, if it works for you it works.

Maybe you have some less difficult to paint acrylic? Good question. The plexi tends to be the worst ive found though.

That or your good (lucky) or both

Tamiya works every time.

Best not to fool with the fusion on your models. I have only used it on larger scale prop type stuff that did not need detail. And i sanded the bejeezuz out of the surface first.

I like the KA-52 idea.

~runs off to start scratch building a ka-52 cockpit~

You could also try an Su-35B cockpit. Side by side and rather clunky looking interior

The krylon wont interact chemically with plexiglass, so that is probably part of the problem.

Either way, it works best on PVC and ABS in my experience. Though it isnt really necessary.

Good old tamiya works well.

Spray paints dont stick to plexiglass well no matter the type. The plastic is much too slick to really adhere to anything, and its often coated with slippery teflon laced coatings so its a better window type material. I have found with the fusion you need to sand the base material pretty well prior ...

I have had Fusion adhere to other material besides plastic. When in doubt, as always test it first though.

I think fusion just has better adhesion to plastic but is more or less a normal spray paint, in my experience anyhow.

An aluminum sphere that size would probably run you $1K+ easy

You may want to be careful about the weight of the engineering hull and nacelles torquing on the neck section under the saucer. I would recommend re-enforcing that if you plan to use this approach. Maybe some sort of support structure inside to keep it from warping.