Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

I'd suggest that you start with something simple, like putting a few LEDs in a simple model. Headlights in a 1/24th scale snap car kit would be good. Simple construction, saving the "work" part of the project for stuffing in a couple of white LEDs. Or working tail lights, just to keep the ...

For an antenna spinner you migt try this very small gearhead motor from the electronic goldmine. I have found them to be quick, reliable, and honest.

http://www.goldmine-elec-products.com/p ... ber=G16300

Cool! Tanks.

Hi. Chiver's got it. Keep it simple. If you have room, aim the LED away from the panel, and bounce the light off a white surfaced reflector back at the panel. That should diffuse the light, eliminating a possible hot spot. You can drill holes in the panel itself & insert short pieces of FO throu...

I've used heat shrink tubing on FO for years with no ill effects. It's the usual method for grouping FO to LEDs. Just be gentle when heating the heat shrink. A heat gun used sparingly works well. I just hold the heat shrink over my (plugged in) low wattage soldering pencil and let the heat rising up...

Hi, again

3 x 1.2 V = 3.6 V, if you use rechargable batteries.

Just say'in is all.

Edge lighting instrument panels that way goes back at least to World War II instrument panels. Look for old (old, old) military surplus stuff for samples.

YAYAY! Way to go Scott!

Good Luck skorpiyun!

Liquid maskers seem to be mostly liquid latex.

I've also successfully used plain white glue, painted on and allowed to dry.

I'd like to suggest using a 9 volt REGULATED wall wart only. UN-regulated power supplies put out a lot more than their "rated" voltage if they are not being run at close to their max rated amperage. Regulated supplies are forced to put out only their rated voltage no matter how much ampera...

Simple, but should work well.

CMOS outputs can SOURCE or SINK current relative to each other. Since I often connect things between outputs that's how I often think of CMOS connections. One valid way of thinking about using electronics. I appreciate your way of thinking about electronics. Over to you. I can now retire after teach...

For me - the way I see things - the outputs effectively go POSITIVE and NEGATIVE. Your explanation is accurate, if a bit over complicated. I think we both mean effectively the same thing. I've been doing this so loing it seemed "obvious" to me that if you reversed the LEDs you changed the ...

If you can make a chaser with a 4017 chip - reverse the connections on the LEDs. Outputs on a CMOS chip like the 4017 go POSITIVE and then NEGATIVE. So connecting the LEDs "backward" gives you a moving Dark spot rather than a moving Lighted spot. Don't forget to connect the common connecti...

Plasticard = Evergreen sheet

At least for us in the Colonies.

How about using a cheap key chain sized flat screen digital photo "picture frame"? Or maybe not so key-chain size. Make all your reticles and data displays in your handy full sized computer, then down load 'em into the "picture frame". Use any fonts you like - use a global font c...

Another source of detail bits (or "model mulch") is chopped up Evergreen styrene shapes. Simply take some styrene strip and carefully chop it into small uniform segments and then use them to indicate hatches, vents, or "stuff". Who knows what those bits and bobs on real vehiicles...

YAYAYAY!

SPDT switches should work well. I just like a DPDT switch so I can switch POSITIVE and NEGATIVE at the same time. They give me more options if I change my ideas.

They also make good reversing switches.

Stocking the DPDT keeps down the number of bits I have to keep around.

Good luck!

Most suppliers sell "push-ON push-OFF" button switches. NOT "momentary" types. For the toggle switch, try a "double pole double throw center OFF switch" or "DPDT center OFF" type. If you don't need the switch to cut power in the middle position leave off the &...

I'd like to add: Fine point needle nose pliers, for handling little parts & bending wires. Both smooth jaw & "grabby" types. A fine wire cutter or "diagonal cutter" or "dyke". A simple "wire wrap" tool and several different colors of rolls of 30 gauge ...

NEVER use Grain 'O Wheat bulbs when you can sanely use LEDs. Or "Grain 'O HEAT" bulbs to be precise. GoW bulbs burn out easily, and often. On the other hand, I have sitting on my computer some LED displqays that have been ON and blinking for 35 YEARS straight so far. And LED life ratings a...

All 20 mA, yes. But probably different voltages.

At least the RED LEDs are probably 2.4 VOLT, while the BLUE and WHITE ones are probably 3.4 VOLT. That will affect your resistor selection.

Google "fluorescent plastic rod" and you should get lots of suppliers. Then try a UV light to illuminate the rods.

(Remember to use the quotes.)

Dude!

Try this thread to start with. then ask questions.

http://www.starshipmodeler.net/talk/vie ... hp?t=38927

Dude, EL strip needs high voltage (around 100+ volts) to work. An inverter isn't just a good idea: it's the la... a necessity.

Sadly.

And EL stuff is rather dim compared to LEDs and short lived, from my experience.

Try looking at a Ramsey Electronics catalog. They have several kits to make light control devices, some operate from sound, others from an electronic signal. www.ramseyelectronics for internewt LED sound to light controller - uses battery power Music lights controller - 110 AC BIG unit, lots ‘o powe...

Good work, Chris.

Keep on keeping on.

Even so, you does good work Sparkster!

Huzzah!