Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

fyi... this is a great option for the non-electrically inclined. It work great lighting an old model. Very bright and it is plug-and-play!

Mori mori is the best putty I've ever used. And it is yellow. I'm guessin' that's what it is.

Same method i am using, the only difference is the gule i used. i sugest you test you epoxy/fiber mix first since some will melt the fiber.. And i used a nail cliper to cut the fiber hanging out AFTER painting and not before otherwise, the paint will cover the light. You can check out some pics i h...

Maybe it would be helpful to describe the process of stringing these fiber optics (can you tell this is my first fiber optics project!?!). Say I've got a star destroyer and I'm stringing all 50 fiber optics as "windows". Would it be inappropriate to: 1) String the fiber with a little bit p...

White glue seems like it wouldn't hold very well. Do you think it is sufficient?

would the heat from the hot glue gun melt the plastic fiber?

I received these items and they are pretty slick. It seems pretty dummy proof. I have a couple questions. 1) What type of glue would you use to afix the fiber optic to the hole you want it to shine through? Regular CA or do you need epoxy or something else? 2) How would you change the color of the l...

Just thought I'd pass this on. I picked up this pre-wired fiber optic bundle (50 strands). You apparently can cut each 2 foot strand to the length you want. I'm hopeful this will be a nice solution for the electrically impaired. http://www.nationalartcraft.com/subcategory.asp?gid=1&cid=296&s...

I ordered a couple of these. I let you know how it goes...


http://www.nationalartcraft.com/subcate ... &scid=1446

I don't know ANYTHING about wiring LEDs. Don't you need to solder things and know something about circuitry to do stuff like that?

Anyone know how easy it is to take apart a LED Christmas tree to light a star wars star destroyer?

Thanks. I've been wondering about this issue too!

My consistency with the enamels are fine. Any more thinner and it starts to go on messy. Enamels just simply stink. Acrylics go on easy, clean up easy, dry quicker, simply superior. Enamels are the bane of my existence.

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'Round these parts, we gotta name for folks like you.... ENAMEL-LOVERS!





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I will put my Tamiya acrylics up against your enamels any day of the week.

I had the consistency right on the enamels... milk consistency. It just begins to dry and clog much quicker than acrylics.

I forgot how much I hate ENAMEL paints. Always clogging up my airbrush. Difficult to clean up. Inconsistent thickness, so you don't know how much thinner to add. How do y'all clean your airbrush with spraying enamels? I had to stop several times and run high strength lacquer thinner through it. Anyo...

Welcome to the WONDERFUL WORLD OF MORI MORI. Love the stuff. Zero shrink. Sandable. Stronger than Bondo. And the consistency is easier to work with than Bondo or Squadron Green. It's just heaven.... and you can find it at your local neighborhood starshipmodeler.com store!!

i tested Rustoleum vs. Krylon... there was no contest. The Rustoleum worked well... not as well as Tamiya or Mr. Surfacer, but very well for the large scale model I was painting. The Krylon was horrible... dripped no matter how much I shook it. Tried warming it up... still horrible. Lesson: Stay awa...

Nope... I assume it would be a very simple job. I just don't know the first thing about which leds to choose... how to wire them... or what power source to use. I don't know what the heck a resistor, transistor, or flux capicitor is either.

Joe,
You're the best... great idea. I haven't even started on the BR yet... perhaps I'll wait until I get further along in the process. Fortunately it was cast hollow and I was able to get the clear pieces for the engines (so the light will shine through). Thanks again,
Brian

I'm just beginning to my Randy Cooper Rebel Blockade Runner and I've never ever ever lighted a model before. I'm a little overwhelmed at the prospect of learning the lighting trade. Does anyone on the boards offer a service to put together a lighting system that I could install in the model? If so, ...

THanks guys. The TER-OR fix makes more sense to me. Get that Apoxie Sculpt love going again.

Have any of you filled up a resin kit with Great Stuff foam in order to give a piece more internal strength? If not, Great Stuff, what have you used? I have a hollow piece that is quite flimsy, and I'm considiring using Great Stuff. Am I mad? Wait... don't answer that.

And then hook it up to the flux capacitor.

Just curious to see if anyone here knows of a good resource to learn how to use a lathe.

Thanks!

Those Tamiya weathering kits in the SSM store are awesome. Just used them. They are a little stickier to get the tone to adhere to your model better. Great stuff.

that is really good advice... gray colors are much more prevelant in the larger trees. then add some brown and green highlights. there was a good article at Armorama if you wanna search around... i'll try to find it too.

Two excellent (AND FREE) videos describing post-shading. They also have a great pre-shading video.

http://www.scaleworkshop.com/workshop/video34bg_1.htm
http://www.scaleworkshop.com/workshop/video35bg_1.htm

Pre-shading video:
http://www.scaleworkshop.com/workshop/video4bg_2.htm

What do you use to clean Alclad II out of your airbrush? I've been using Lacquer Thinner, but I don't know if that is too harsh on the rubber seals on the Airbrush. Anyone??

Does anyone have an opinion on ordering RTV Moldmaking rubber from these guys? Looks like its the best deal, I've seen for large amounts of RTV.

http://www.shopmaninc.com/moldmaking.html