Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

it has been my favorite brand of paint since they came out with it.
that other 500 series stuff was crap!
(also quite fond of Pollyscale , too)

electrical tape ???

...and don't forget this one...

http://www.sciencelab.com/msds.php?msdsId=9923958

if the tube was square with the bottom of the jar it might have formed a seal
preventing paint from going in.
try cutting off the end at an angle (45 degrees?) so that paint can go in.

it also causes them to turn yellow...as I learned the hard way on a model of the USS Reliant. :( (it was also over an enamel-based white) I know that Testors Dullcote and Gloss Cote turn everything yellow because they are crap. Yeah , I've heard that before ; Testors should just stop making them !

I use either Polly-S acrylic thinner or Testors Acryl thinner.
and never more than 15% thinner.

are you by any chance spraying it too thickly?
one or two thin coats are all you should need.

Enamels can go on top of acrylics, and acrylics can go on top of enamels, as far as my experience goes. Never use a clear lacquer to seal decals, since they may eat away at the decal film. it also causes them to turn yellow...as I learned the hard way on a model of the USS Reliant. :( (it was also ...

if its spitting and sputtering then there is definitely a problem. not sure what is is. I've used Polly S , Testors Acryl and Tamiya's thinner with Tamiya paint , all with good results. I've found that Tamiya's flat paint needs a 50/50 mix of paint and thinner and then stir the ever livin fekk out o...

what's AS-16 ????
without a name it is meaningless
or (I hate to say it) an FS number

I've read somewhere Acrylics can be thinned with alcohol, is this true? in my limited experience with alcohol I found that it actually cused the paint to dry too quickly--even inside the airbrush before it got to the model. highly recommend the use of Acrylic Retarder if you are using alcohol. Tami...

penguinpc wrote:
Just painted these three gloss white today.

Now to make a decision on the C.

either Duck Egg Blue (FS 35622) or Flanker Pale Blue

for A, B and Reliant I recommend Gloss White-that comes in a spray can

1. airbrush the outside of the clear pieces clear flat.
(actually it's not clear , but a bit hazy)
2. go to the kitchen and steal some waxed paper and wrap that around the led strips.
two layers of waxed paper might be required.

I have also used Polly-S thinner and Testors ACRYL thinner with results that are as good as X-20A but without that nasty smell.
for flat paint I would recommend a 50/50 mix of paint to thinner.

all model paints should specify if they are gloss,satin or matte finish.

if they don't , then ask the people who work at the hobby shop.

neat !

I am surprised no one offered you the obvious solution...
Squadron White Putty
stock number 09060

Pollyscale Plastic Prep.
it's purposely designed to remove oils,dirt,mold-release agents and render the plastic static-free for painting.

manu wrote:
http://www.phoximages.de/images-i5051bbh8mk.jpg
http://www.phoximages.de/images-i5052bdwg84.jpg

both are images of the CGI version.
I would not use either as a reference.

the torpedo tubes only glow when they are firing,not all the time.

I like to use Humbrol 171 Antique Bronze

ma stands for micro-amperes -1/1000th of an amp
1.4 Amps would fry all the l.e.d.s and the wiring unless it were pretty big.

I think you might have a bigger problem with dust than using the airbrush.

http://www.micromark.com/SearchResult.a ... bber+resin

I've used this rubber and CR-300 resin with good effect.
(after a learning curve-I was a newbie then)