Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

I bought a garage kit from E2046 last year. It's Saber from Fate Zero with a clear dress. The clear resin parts came a bit yellowed. I've gathered ingredients for Retr0brite to give it a shot this weekend because it's supposed to be sunny. Has anyone tried this? I've never used Retr0Brite before. I ...

jwkitson wrote: ↑Sun Dec 27, 2020 4:02 amAre you meaning Micro Liquid Decal Film?

Yes, this is what you want:
https://hlj.co.jp/product/MCS00112/Sup
You can maybe request it. Yodobashi, AmiAmi and Hobby Search is sold out and have stopped sales. Gougers want over 3,000 yen for it on Amazon.

I just came across your message. I also live in Japan. You can get Micro Decal Bonder here in Japan. I do believe that will work. You can spray it on with an airbrush. Some people also just spray the decals with clear lacquer. As for me, I buy the clear Fine Molds decal paper and print with laser p...

Hi all, I've got a question on what to use for sealing inkjet printed decals. I'm currently in Japan, so most of the options mentioned so far aren't readily available or maybe under different names that I am not associating. I can easily find the inkjet paper, but I'm not sure what spray to use aft...

I may be a noob, but I think giving them a coat of Mr. Metal Primer first (it's a clear primer), then using Tamiya Clear Blue and Clear Red in variation (maybe some Smoke too) might produce some good heat discoloration effect.

Ah, that's a shame. At least the lighting kit for the K'Tinga has flashing NAV lights. I thought they might include the same for this new Discoprise kit.

Does the kit come with flashing collision strobes and blinking nav lights as well as the regular lights?

Coca Cola. It might not work as quickly, but it is gentler on the plastic than bleach.

Thanks for the advice. How about 100% isopropyl alcohol? I bought a big container back in February when I used to think that the coronavirus was something to be afraid of. I've been using it to clean my airbrush and just to clean our home but I was thinking I might have good luck using it as a paint...

Pod1610 wrote: ↑Sat Jul 25, 2020 4:20 am You've probably found out by now, but Tamiya Acrylic thinners and MiG( as well as Vallejo and AK) acrylics make a horrible gunky mess when combined due to very differing chemistry in their make up. Hopefully you've found out beforetrying to do it....

So what do you use as a thinner?

irishtrek wrote: ↑Mon May 18, 2020 9:15 pm Talked to my nephew last Friday and according to him it's just the Testors paints which are being discontinued. Their glues and the MM paints will still be made.

Does your nephew work for Testors?

Unfortunately, Alclad Chrome rubs off rather easily, regardless of time. They sell Alclad Aqua Gloss to be used as a clear coat to seal the paint, and it is good for not dulling silver finishes in general. The best I've found is the Molotow chrome pen. Buy the chrome paint refill and not the pen. Yo...

That's wild. I've never seen a Pi Zero before. I have a Pi 3 with Ubuntu Linux installed on it. My daughter uses it to watch YouTube on the TV instead of commandeering my hobby room's computer.

Marco Scheloske wrote: ↑Wed Jun 26, 2019 4:28 am It helps to spray water into the air just before airbrushing with a pump bottle. Some fellows put cardboard on the floor and walls on their spray booths and wet them before airbrushing. Helps a lot.

So the wet cardboard acts like a dust magnet? Neat! I'll have to try that.

I bought a dust catcher made by GSI Creos to use on my Wave airbrush. I live in Japan, so I've no idea what is available to you, but even with this dust catcher I still cannot eliminate all dust. Plus you're probably going to have all sorts of tiny dust particles flying around in your room you canno...

Swanks! Seriously, there seems to be a dearth of white decal paper options here in Japan. There's an inkjet one, but I print stuff out at work on laser printers since my own printer is very spotty. Fine Molds seems to be the only option, and it kinda sucks. I might have to order this Papillo and hav...

Oh wait... This is for inkjet. What about laser printers?

Thanks, guys!

When I lived in America, I tried the Testors decal paper for ink jet printers. Too thick. Here in Japan, I've bought the Fine Molds decal paper and while the clear is just great, the white is too thick. It's really caused me to rethink some plans I've made for some kits. Are there any good white dec...

SpaceRanger1 wrote: ↑Tue May 07, 2019 5:46 pm Another thread that needs to be permanenced/permanentified is the ongoing thread on the 1/350 K'Tinga.

Good idea! the Bandai Star Wars thread as well as the Yamato 2199/2202 threads ought to also become permanent, I think.

I second what brt said above. HDA Modelworx is my favorite way to go. In fact, I had a conversation with Jerry at HDA about flood lights on the 537/350 Enterprise Refit. Here are my notes: 3050 white SMD for the forward spot floodlight 0805 warm white SMDs for the port and starboard lights on the br...

I had posted in the StarTrek modelling section about my Arduino Shadow Bussards, which included the script, but it is no longer there. This script not only had the bussard effect, but included navigation lights for the TOS Enterprise. I would be happy to re-post to get things started. Just let me k...

In the same way the SSM site provides decals modelers have designed to print out, it would be pretty nice if there were some section of the site here in which people can share Arduino scripts. That is an awesome idea! Vern I told John/OneZero about this idea in an email and he liked the idea. But h...

No offense taken. I think I'll just buy the sludge bay and space purple from HLJ and do a comparison myself.

TShark wrote: ↑Tue Jul 10, 2018 8:01 am I agree it would be nice to have that on this forum. Here is a board I go to for Sci-Fi Arduino modelling scripts:

http://scifimodelaction.com/sfmaforum/i ... board=23.0

Hope this helps

Thanks for the link!

That's a neat website, but isn't there a more convenient place to find script dumps for common modeling needs? Like bussards--> go here. Nav lights and strobes--> click here. Battlestar Galactica landing bay chase lights---> click here. Recreating an animated Van Gogh painting looks neat, but it's b...

My friend said he used Vallejo primer and yesterday I learned that he was spraying Vallejo Air, which is pre-thinned. It came right off the model. (It's an email conversation, so proceeding slowly.) I've been tempted to try out Vallejo Air because it's said to smell like candy. That's a far cry from...

To point out the obvious, the triangle in the lower right corner of the pic of each product is a color example. Subtle differences in hue. So that's it? Reading the descriptions led me to believe that there's some sort of special property of the chemistry to create a streaking effect, etc. ".....

I'm interested in knowing more about these products by Ammo/Mig. I understand that the washes are for broader areas and the oil brushers are for detailing with more precision. I am particularly interested in knowing the differences between these: Starship Filth and Starship Bay Sludge. also Starship...

TazMan2000 wrote: ↑Sun Jul 01, 2018 11:00 am Exactly. But prime with something other than Vallejo. Tamiya works well.

That's where my friend went wrong, apparently. He used the Vallejo primer. I dunno what he used to thin it.