Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

I've used Testor's Dullcoat for years over oil/acrylic combinations.
Some are 20+ years old, still holding up fine.

For nearly as long my process has been:

Acrylics -> Future Floor Acrylic -> Oils and other weathering -> Dullcoat

Painting over not-quite-cured Elmer's white glue will crackle.
The one gotcha is to not leave brush strokes or 'grain' to the glue application, otherwise the paint will crackle primarily along those lines instead of a random pattern.

I've not had a problem with either as the base and the other on top - eventually. With enamels or alkyds as the base - at least the older ones I used - it was important to make sure they've finished outgassing/curing before applying the acrylic top (aka "how I learned to make a crackle finish&q...

Watercolours with just a tiny amount of dish soap in the mixing water to break surface tension and keep the colours from beading up as they dry. Works very well for panel lining.

I'm cheap, and salvage old computer cables for wiring.
One old printer cable has more wire than you'll probably ever need for model lighting. Nice stranded wire, with lots of different colours of insulation.

I tried this with a non-permanent whiteboard marker, and it bled through as many layers of paint as I could apply, and never feathered out to a soft edge like I'd hoped. It just looked like I'd drawn on the test piece with a failing magic marker.

I made a similar discovery when in the hospital. The foam mouth swabs they provide for people who can't use a toothbrush are on plastic tubes as well. And it turns out they're friendly with styrene cement and fit some of the polycaps used in mecha models. So there was me, in the midst of medical cri...

I have a bunch of 1 oz. plastic cups that I pre-mix my paint in. They're disposable, but I rinse and re-use because I'm cheap. Or, if I'm lazy (and cheap), I'll put thinner in the airbrush first, then stir in paint, and finally cover the nozzle and backflow air through the cup to mix anything I've m...

What's the approx. diameter of hose you're looking for? Hobbylink Japan has various sizes of flexible spring: http://www.hlj.com/product/KBYMS07/Sci Also this, for a chunkier look: http://www.hlj.com/product/HQPPP3/Sci And if you're looking for something larger than guitar strings, a bass guitar 'e'...

That's impressive. I don't know what you'd call that. Assisted 3D modeling? 3D tracing? Semi-automated dimensional extrapolation?
It's still requiring a person to input the z-axis information, and limited to symmetrical objects, but nevertheless neat.

:shock: :shock: :shock: Beautiful work. WOW!! And all I have had time to look at is "The Star Dwellers". :shock: Likewise. Going to have to put on another pot of coffee for the rest. That's an amazing inspiration. (edit:) There really is just the one build article. The other projects are ...

Better yet, if at all possible set up a proper spray booth ventilated to outside. The odorless thinners are great, but keep in mind you're breathing in the same chemical soup.

I think patience is your best and least risky option. If you can provide a relatively dust-free spot, give the model a couple more days - even a week - to see if the paint cures. If it does, great; if it doesn't, you're no worse off and can try carefully stripping it. And yes, I have found different...

I've never experienced any of the problems from degassing. Maybe Canada has different regulations on acceptable propellants or some such? The only noteworthy thing I've experienced is primers tend to settle in the airbrush jar after about 10-15 minutes and need a bit of backflow bubbling to keep the...

I've got a Paasche H (single), a Badger Crescendo 175 (double), and a Veda 130E ($20 ebay el cheapo double-action). They're all fine. The Paasche is better for larger areas and has interchangable tips. It's okay for detail, but the other two beat it. The Crescendo would get my vote as the best all-r...

The polyurethane GG is basically spray foam in a bottle. It does expand, but not too aggressively, and sticks to just about every known substance in the universe, especially fingers. I've cleaned seepage with acetone, but once it's dried, cutting, scraping and sanding was the only way I could remove...

....it's not inconceivable that a future computer/printer could take a few 2d images from pictures of an old 1988 amt enterprise d kit and 3d print pieces of said model. Especially if I have images of the plastic pieces of the kit. Good luck in 2030 of getting those copyrighted 2D images past your ...

One of the greatest tips I've come across for seam sanding was to use the fingernail sanding/polishing sticks. The finer ones have about a 320 / 400 grit. Having hot primer shrink seams plagued me for years. Still does on occasion if I forget to lay down a couple very light coats first. Only SGT (su...

There's specific automotive primers for flexible parts, too.

You can achieve a smoother finish if you sand the primer, if that's what your model needs. I rarely sand it except where its shown flaws that need correcting.

You can apply a flat over Future, including Dullcoat. You can also mix Future with Tamiya flat and still end up with a nice matte finish, or satin, semi-gloss, etc. depending on the amount of flat you add.

There's a whole thread on Future right here with some good mix recipes.

I've used it. I decanted from the spray can to use in my airbrush, and thinned it about 50/50 with lacquer thinner. It went on nicely, and I had no problems using Future overtop. I waited at least several days before applying the Future, so the key may be making sure it's cured before overcoating. T...

First post, and he's got a link to Cricut accessories in his tagline? I suspect he's using it for spam.

I unintentionally achieved this effect by painting old Pactra acrylics over a thick coat of hairspray. I didn't let the hairspray dry much, which may have been a factor.

I use a length of 1/2" ID tubing and an old 35mm film container. I spray from the rattlecan into one end of the tube, and the other end drips out paint into the film container. There's not too much vapour, but I do this in my paint booth just the same. Some use a straw, or if the nozzle will ac...

And one more that I've been watching develop:
http://www.mydiycnc.com/

Of particular interest is their adapting the machine for laser cutting.

I've considered going the home-built route first before shelling out for a kit, but the whole endeavour is one of those back-burner projects.

Highly recommended. The Chopper II is one of the greatest scratchbuilding tools I've bought, possibly second only to the Dremel. I agree that the included guides are a bit lacking...mine have slightly rounded edges on the bottom face, which is a problem when cutting really thin styrene. It's been gr...

Some of the newer Gundam kits use ABS in place of polycaps. It offers a bit more gripping power than styrene, and unlike polycaps, holds paint well.
I haven't tried it, but I see no reason why you couldn't use ABS plumbing materials to create elbow/knee type joints.

I spray into a piece of 1/2" ID PVC pipe. The larger hole is an easier target to hit, instead of spraying my hand. :) Decant into an old 35mm film jar. No need for filtering when pouring it into the airbrush cup, and I've never experienced any gassing problems. This it how I apply primer 90% of...

My painting method is usually: 1) Primer - Dupli-Color or Home Hardware Rust Coat alkyd -wait a day or two- 2) Paint - acrylic or oil-based -wait a day or two for acrylics, a week for oil-based paints- 3) Gloss seal - Future -wait a day or two- 4) Decals, and more Future overtop* -wait a day or two-...