Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

I have never done a kit with extensive photoetch aftermarket parts before. My first one, sadly, is NOT looking too good. Hasegawa F-15 in 1:72, Eduard photoetch parts. The problem is the grills, they get saturated with the thin CA glue and loose all their detail. I'm not going to say much more, but ...

The final finish rule is not MY rule. Estes-Cox is using EPP foam for all their new airplane wings and fuselage parts. The finish must be smooth and clean. Also, to maintain low flight weight, a minimal layer of paint must be used. Too much surface texture will cause friction, reducing wing performa...

Latex, no good. Will not create an agressive bond with the EPP. I took a sample of the stuff to a local paint store. They soaked the foam in the hottest laquer thinner they had. They were sure it would melt the foam. Nope. When I use the stuff from China, I use a NIOSH paint mask. The problem I have...

No good. The EPP is the final surface. Need paint that sticks to it directly.

I've been using a lot of EPP (expanded poly-propylene styrofoam) for product, particularly airplanes, and I have had a helluva time getting paint to stick agressively to it. We had a sample of paint from China that works great, but is not domestically available. I tried to prime with Krylon Fusion f...

Using a water based paint, you can also try Testor's Acryl thinner. If the surface of the model is too smooth, paint may bead through surface tension. As my general rule, I thin my paint to a 3:1 for flat or 2:1 for glossy, favoring the paint. Third, step up your pressure to 20 - 25 psi. Too low a p...

I use the Paasche VL airbush (close enough) in the model shop at Estes Rockets. The parts are readily available, but I've never needed any so far. It came with three needle/head assemblies, but I stick with the #3 setup. (#1 = fine, #3 = med, #5 = broad). I've never used the Iwata, but I hear they a...

Are you dealing with a laquer / enamel incompatibility? Although, usually with Testors, they are cross compatible. You can typically paint enamel over laquer, but not the reverse. Krylon, for example, is far to chemically hot and will eat at an enamel paint. For caution's sake, stick with one brand ...

Agreed from here. The heavier you lay down the paint on ANY surface, you will get pooling, surface tension, and many other problems.

Airbrush and light coats are the way. Seal with Future.

I lay down enamel over enamel in... oh... 5 minutes, depending on the absorbtion of the material. I work on a lot of foam, and it soaks up the enamels in no time. I would wait 2 hours before putting masking tape over enamel. This ties in to your other post about the J-2. For flat enamel, 2 hours. Fo...

Enamel, especially flat, will stick very well to a clean plastic surface. Wipe it down with denatured alcohol to remove any mold release. I suggest Tamiya yellow masking tape. Low tack, fine enough to control underspray, and lifts clean.

Okay, more tips for ya. It's okay, I'm a professional. :wink: Don't use more paint than you have to. Any fine details will be filled in and lost in layers of paint. Even clear coats will have mass, therefore will cause detail to be "softened." Lay down all you colors first, then if you wan...

If you stick within the Testor's line of products, you will be fine. I suggest you stick with the Laquer clear coat. The Enamel stuff is not nearly as good, and causes problems with overpainting it later. Don't mess with other kinds of Laquer protectants. Krylon is far too hot (chemically) and many ...

big-dog: you are being unfair. I use several types of spray devices every day, professionally. Two dual-action airbrushes and a small automotive spray gun are my primary tools (all three are hooked up at the same time, so frequently I will have all three in use.) An airbrush IS a tool, sometimes exp...