Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

It took a while to get a feel for it, but here you go:
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c49/K ... CN0425.jpg
next to a chrome sprue from a Revell chopper kit

I have a plastic storage bin that I only use for covering painted models. If it's not upside down over a drying model, it is stored with its lid on. I rinse it out every two coats or so... I also try to keep as much air moving through my paint booth as possible.

Hope this helps

Very good demonstration of the technique!

Very good results for a first run. I'm going to try over a better glosscoat this weekend (This one was a little orange-peel-ish). Will post pics.
BTW, built you carbon bucket booth filter tonight: Very cool!
Think I'm going to take it to the next club meeting....

Found this online last night:
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbullet ... p?t=638256
going to try it out tonight as my LHS keeps it in stock
Will let you all know the results

Kylwell wrote:Ah, what you need is Alsa MirrorChrome

Kylwell, I really respect your opinion, but that seems really pricey. Have you had any personal experience with the product?

I am now on my third spray bomb of "Chrome" paint from autoparts and supply stores. they all look like run of the mill silver paint even when applied over a gloss black base coat. I haven't used the Alcald but I'm trying to match a model part that came "chromed". Any suggestions ...

Kylwell wrote:There can be only one.

Any word on price??

I fainally have broken out this stuff, but I do have one questions: How much work time do I have until it sets up to harder than styrene?

Thanks all, and especially Erin....
Worked like a charm.

I am trying to cut some brass tube with an OD of just .008 inch. I want the cut to be perpendicular to the outer edge (straight cross cut). The problem I am running into is that due to the tube's rather small size, it is flexing when I use my razor saw. If anyone has any suggestions, I would be grat...

Here's the deal: I want to paint aluminium foil, flat, and then shape it afterwards. Do I prime w/ trusty Mr. Surfacer? Is that or Tamiya rattle can paint going to be flexable enough for bending the foil?

Any thoughts?

I'm looking for hollow 2-parters or Hollow Hemispheres. Think TIE fighter cockpit, but that's not what it's for.

I do mine the other way.

Is this wrong??

Craft stores like Michales and Hobby Lobby sell clear acrylic spheres in different sizes, from 1 to 5 inches. They are intended as make it yourself Christmas decorations, but are excellent scratchbuilding fodder. (The base "kit" for Iron Modeler at Wonderfest this year was a pair of these...

I don't so much like the lacquer over acrylic. I've had Bad Things happen in the past. Applying the PolyScale is not like the Testors. Don't apply until you can see a liquid sheen. Apply until you see the gloss go away. Come back later and re-apply. A fine mist is all you want to airbrush. This mig...

I picked some up awhile back, mainly to flatten Future-is it supposed to be so thick? My bottle had a consistency like half set pudding... Yep - it's just a really fine powder with enough carrier to make it mix easily with the other paints. Many a person (guilty!) has made the mistake of using it l...

Uhm, just remember Windex will eat your acrylic paint underneath. Try water with a bit of surficant. Amen, a few squirts of windex will make several layers of acrylic paint go away. That's why I have a sign on my hutch at work warning the cleaning crew what will happen. Let's just put it this way: ...

hi, can anyone tell me what to use to strip acrylic paint over gw undercoat from styrene, that i can get in the UK. seeing as EO, CSC, and SG are not avaliable here? thanks in advance For acrylics I use Windex. Any window cleaner with ammonia will make mincemeat out of acrylics. Now for my quandry....

Any other primers? I'm looking at a week + for Mr. Resin Primer, and I am trying to get this finished for sonething.

So, what about surface prep?
I soaked a model in soapy water over night, scrubbed it with a small tooth brush, primed it with Mr. surfacer, and the paint lifts when I mask it.....

I use 91-99% isopropyl alcohol applied to a cotton swab to "sand" Mr. Surfacer Big thanks! Gotta try that out! :D It takes a certian "touch" to get it right. Don't give up if you initally find the end results are not what you wanted, as it is a very useful tecnique for areas wit...

I highly reccommend Gunze's Mr. Color Leveling Thinner. It is hard to find in the states, but the results are well worth it. That being said, I use 91-99% isopropyl alcohol applied to a cotton swab to "sand" Mr. Surfacer, so I suppose it could be used as a thinner. It smells like a lacquer...

I am working on a carbon fiber support structure for a large model (yep, that one) and I was wondering if Aves cures "strong" enough to act as a supporting joint between two or three angles?

I have had fair to good results by mixing it with Polly Scale dull coat and thining it--alot.

I have two of those airbrushes: the Revolution BCR and the Eclipse HP-CS. From my experience, there are pluses and minuses to both. So here's a break down of my opinion... Revolution BCR Pros: About as bomb-prof as you can get, very forgiving especially with a good compressor. If I am doing anything...

Darkov wrote:I was previously using Alumilite Regular....too short a potlife and too many bubble (even under pressure casting).

Glad to hear it's not just me with this problem. Now I need to see if I can get my LHS to carry some smooth-on (need to keep the local guys in business whenever possible)

Have you seen the Tamiya Weathering Master D set? scroll down until you see the exhaust pipes, they have videos too . I just ordered a set from my LHS for experimentation. Don't know if this is what you're looking for, but... the D set has blue burn and red burn tints as well as "oil stain"

I just picked up a bottle of that a my LHS last weekend. Does it "clean up" (alcohol and cotton swab) like Mr Surfacer?

Was the light distribution uneven, or not bright enough Thomas? :) Not even enough, even with several layers of wax paper layered on top of 12 superbright blue LEDs. I found that for lighting large warp engines, CCFLs give the best result. Try using Fiberfill (pillow stuffing). A one-pound bag usua...