Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

I believe that all designers compromise to some degree... If you'll look at some of the sketches and blueprints made for building models from, during the filming of "Star Wars" and then, look at what Grant, Steve, and Lorne actually built, at ILM for the finished film? There are many measu...

Would have liked to see other updates on the progress of this particular build...

There needs to be more modeling "stickies" methinks. In this way, we aren't continually having to "relearn" things, that veteran model builders have tried, and experienced. Creating a good replica of what we're trying to build, is difficult enough, in the easiest of times, withou...

My "Crab Pod" kit, was molded in BRIGHT ORANGE... which is great, if you're planning on painting your crab pod that color. If, on the other hand, you are planning on painting your pod in a more "institutional, high visibility white"? You have some heavy priming to do... that hope...

Pledge's parent brand, bought the future name, and formula, from my understanding. Although it's distributed under the pledge name, the formula hasn't changed.

This is the same old "Future Floor Finish" known and loved by modelers for two decades. Pledge bought'em out. Consistency, and chemical formula remain unchanged, with the same excellent coverage, and end result. A hard, glossy finish, that protects your clear parts from the lion's share of...

Prime them black... Red is probably the most difficult color to paint over, without "bleed through"... from personal experience. I've rehabbed houses, that have been gone through with the Graffiti artist's favorite colors of paint.... red, and neon orange. Very difficult to cover those col...

Or simply blotting vinegar, with a Qtip, can mildly "age" it. Another one that works, is a solution of phosphoric acid... but you need to keep soda handy as a neutralizing agent... or it will keep attacking the metal, beyond the effect you likely are looking for. Jantz Supply, in Davis Okl...

If it's clear acrylic resin, then it's good stuff. Fine Scale Modeler magazine has run multiple articles, by Paul Budzik (a dentist, who builds WW2 aircraft models in 1/48 scale) on how to utilize clear acrylic dental resin, in your model building. I've been told that Clear Acrylic Dental resin, is ...

I seem to be having problems with double posts...

Revell's1/32
Mig-21 kit, had interesting looking engines (plus the afterburners) in them. Lots of detail on them.

Pretty certain, that the original studio model, was done, using the Revellogram 1/32 Scale Cobra forward fuselage... and the Monogram 1/48 scale rear fuselage, and intakes. It's possible that the Revell 1/32 scale rear fuselage was used...but I'm pretty certain it was the smaller 1/48 scale fuselage...

Frigging SCORE, BABY!!! Attended Squadron Scalefest yesterday, over in Mesquite Texas...and hit the vendor's area like a hurricane hits Miami beach. Notable Scores for scratching? How about a Shuttle launch tower complex, for only sixty bucks? Purchased TWO leopold guns, in 1/72 scale (hasegawa) and...

I'm liking it. It's edgy, and different. I like the rectangular cross section on the turret's main gun. Lean and mean as hell. Sharkmouth someplace on the front, please... I like a tank with attitude...

If this one doesn't achieve "sticky" status, it will be a crime. Detailing a model is a huge part of the fun of Sci Fi modeling. Greebling is a large part of detailing. This is the first time I had ever seen a treatise on "how to greeble properly".... and I feel it was well done....

Just got a look at this, today. LOVE the double hulled idea. Definitely adds believability to the finished build. You've achieved the illusion of additional depth, and functionality to your design. Everything tucks away neatly, and your hatch extension and retraction linkages are present. Just amazi...

I know that this is an idiot question Craig, but hell, when has THAT ever stopped me? What scale is this tank in? I really like the design. I too, am a sucker for multi turreted designs, regarding armored vehicles. Just curious, that's all. Also, if it's 1/72....? A kit would be REALLY cool. Prefera...

Ah, yes... the inimitable David Happyfellow... :roll: Where would the modeling world be, without him? :twisted: I like his modeling methods... he's very knowledgable. I also like his models, and his attention to minute detail.. Now if he'd just pay as close attention to his people skills... But that...

Foam sheeting is available from any decent homebuilder's supply store, I.E. Lowe's, or Home Depot, etc. I picked up at a plant once, where they cut large blocks of foam to use in concrete casting, for bridge pilasters, and beams... these foam blocks were gigantic! Some of these blocks were four feet...

What Millenium Falsehood said. I too use Plastic Welder... MUCH better bonding than Tenax, and works on more plastics. You can use a lot, or a little... depending on the application. I use a lot, if scratching something... or a little, if I'm only building a styrene kit. One drop goes a long ways......

Naoto, you KILL me! ROFL Hip hop modeler... scratching... OH GOD that was hilarious! I suppose we could write a fan letter to DJ Jazzy Jeff (Geoffrey Townes) and ask him if he models? and if he models... does he scratch? That might prove interesting! I'm not a HUGE hip hop fan... but I always did th...

I've always enjoyed a visit to PETSMART. Why? The hamster and gerbil department has tubing... and it's plastic solvent compatible. I believe it's marketed under the HABITRAIL brand. This tubing is tinted in blue, yellow red, green, and purple. It's see through, and I believe it's either clear styren...

Scratching: What one does to relieve one's itch.... some of which is publicly acceptable...and much of which is not.

Scratch

On the subject of chucks, and flammable liquids.... hey, the chuck is metal, and there isn't enough flammable liquid on it to burn for long, assumably... light it up! :twisted: On a serious note, heat may be the answer indeed... do you have access to a heat gun? I remember reading an article in an a...

Both of you two bought VERY nice vices, congratulations!
Umi, I'll bet your going to do some amazing things, with that milling machine! Good luck!

Scratch

Ti, You may want to check out a place called Jantz Supply. Leo Jantz has lots of shaping equipment...including tungsten carbide bits for motor tools. Leo's bits range from the small to the large, and the teeth sizes vary also. I have a couple of his actual (magazine sized) paper catalogs, and they a...

Ti, You may want to check out a product at WoodCraft.com, called Mirror Coat. I believe this product is similar in most respects to Rustins fine product. Mirror Coat is very tough stuff. My ex Father in Law used it on a bar he was constructing for a client of his. Stuff resists nasty things like cig...

You could also try A-2, or D-2. Both steels are "Tool" steel, and have a high carbon content, with low wear characteristics, when properly heat treated. Stainless DOES have a tendency to work harden, true enough...but that's usually when it's a high carbon stainless, like 440. There are ot...

One tool I haven't heard any of the other posters mention...but one I find invaluable for scratching... The contour gauge. Contour gauges help us to duplicate shapes, while cutting patterns. I bought a pretty nice one from WoodCraft.com. I also advocate a good bandsaw, with a fine toothed blade, for...

I haven't modeled without a motor tool since I was in the service... that was in the eighties. I can't conceive of a project that involved the cutting and shaping of plastic, wood, or minerals, that I haven't used it on. I actually own two of them, (actual Dremels) and I find the flex shaft attachme...