Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

Great tips. I don't know why I haven't thought of sprue cutters. And I will have to look for some flat cuticle cutters. That sounds like a great option.

Thanks, guys!

Anyone have a tip or tool for cutting fiber optics flush after paint? I've tried using a sharp blade and photoetch scissors but, especially with thicker fiber, I'm getting more of a "break" than a clean cut. A recent cockpit lighting project came out very disappointing. The lights are not ...

The crap they sell at Hobby Lobby is the worst.

I'm in the exact same situation. I'm colorblind trying to decide what paints to order for the Slave1.

...Another key - DON'T USE BLACK. Dark gray, or brown/black is more natural. Very few things are black and the contrast becomes much too high. Oh no, wouldn't do that. Didn't even use black on the engine exhaust grills - mixed Model Master Navy Gray with a few drops of Neutral Grey and honestly it'...

Completely understood. I've certainly read your contributions to this part of the forum. I'm just trying to use what I already have, which I bought out of ignorance, inexperience and poor advice, to the best of it's ability . Effect painting and weathering is still my huge nemesis. I've gained confi...

Oh, one final question. If I use denatured alcohol for a acrylic wash, do I really need soap? Does DNA have the same/similar surface tension as H2O?

THANK YOU DasPhule. That helps to clear up the fogginess I was left with going over and over this forum. As I said, the basics get a little lost in some of the sticked sections. Plus I needed a little reassurance. That helps me tremendously. But if anyone else wants to put in their thoughts, to my q...

O.K. I'm going to go super noob here. And yes, I've covered this finishing forum several times and still have basic questions that I couldn't find specific answers to. Paint and weathering scares the crap outta me for a million reasons (color blindness being a huge deterrent). I've built a lot of mo...

Marco Scheloske wrote:"Small and quick weekend projects" can become soooooo much more work... but otherwise that keeps our hobby interesting.

I live for this s#*t.

Hope you can post a vid clip when it's done.

the first 2 fade up as the other 2 fade down Yeah, their description does not sound like what you are describing. Well, I am sorry that you had a bad experience with them. Your idea of adding a few solid LEDs to even everything out is not a bad idea. Attaching a few LEDs to a 9v is extremely easy. ...

Hmmm. Well I hate to hear that, Marco. I feel that I steered you in the wrong direction. :oops: Admittedly the website does not provide every detail, but they have always been happy to help me with questions. I am sorry that your experience went differently. But didn't you want the lights to go from...

Well this has been informative. But I feel kinda where I started. Everyone likes various apsects of various kits. LOL. Some like the RTV but don't like the resin or vice versa. That's really what I was afraid of. I think that probably my best bet is to go with the cheapest and work my way into exper...

I think that I am going to have to take the plunge. But before I ask for recommendations, please consider the following: 1. I want to avoid vacuum molding /pressure casting, if at all possible. 2. I want to eventually make clear parts and Smooth-on only seems to sell clear resin in 1 gallon containe...

Fader units here And there is a green "fader" LED in the drop down menu here . Most of these are blinkers, but they have one green that just fades. I'm not sure how these will wire up with other LEDs Now if you want to make your own circuit, that's a little out of my league. Not exactly in...

Resistors are the one thing that Radio Shack is good for.

Perfect.

Hmmm sandpaper huh? It seems that even with 600 grit that it would show scratch-like patterns. Especially if you don't use varying motions.

No? It really comes out with a nice even diffused pattern? Or is there some technique that I need to know about before I scratch up this part?

Can anyone recommend a good product or method for frosting clear plastic or diffusing light through clear plastic?

I have just recently begun using an AB myself, so my input is what it is. For what it's worth, I bought a Paasche VL and have played with it for about a year now. As my first airbrush, I found disassembly/assembly quite easy with the instructions (only had to use them once) and I like the wide grip ...

TER-OR wrote:...Rubber bands from Broccoli...

Oh God, the things we come up with. Hmmm, now I want broccoli.

Wow. That's pretty cool.

Those should work. Thanks!

Some time ago someone posted a link to little scraping tool that I can't find. It may have been made by Squadron or may have been on some site like digi-key or micromark. Can anyone recommend a scraping tool for removing detail and raised lines flush with the surface?

Blappy wrote:The Mr.Color thinner for Mr.Surfacer smells nothing like alcohol.

...more like laquer thinner, but not quite. The retarder has almost no smell at all.

The "110" does refer to ml. I have the 50. I think the leveling thinner I have is 110. They both smell pretty much the same.

I have never used the retarder but I'm pretty sure it just slows curing time... I have done testing that also proved Mr.Color Thinner is the best (By far!) thinner for the Mr. Color line of Laquers and Surfacers. I heard (i think above and somewhere else) that the retarder helps with the spider web...

double post

Well, since I already double posted.... I think I'll PM naoto and see if he'll interpret some of this for us - it may be a chore though.

Does anyone have any comments about using Mr. Color Thinner, Leveling Thinner and Retarder (all related to Airbrushing Mr. Surfacer)? I just finished a two day, multiligual (bablefish, i'm no linquist) internet search looking for even a rough english interpretation of the instructions for Mr. surfac...

Warming the can does wonders for Model Master enamels. And definately use multiple light coats. I usually spray about 8" or more away and keep the can moving - I've found that the paint puddels even easier after the can has been warmed, but the coverage is much easier on fine detail.