Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

Not really as a dust magnet, but the high humidity in the airbrushing area helps to decrease the amount of dust in the air a lot.

It helps to spray water into the air just before airbrushing with a pump bottle. Some fellows put cardboard on the floor and walls on their spray booths and wet them before airbrushing. Helps a lot.

I own one, and I love it.

Good old window color. Available from countless manufacturers.

Do a Google picture search for "cell shading model kit". Dozens of very cool inspirational pics will show up.

Very cool!

Dnd you touch it with your fingers during polishing? Skin oil might have this effect.

ulvdemon wrote:Seriously! I am going to put my head down. Way too simple, even I can manage this.

Don't be embarassed - many modelers aren't aware of this little trick.

Use simply a sharp knife, or a razor blade:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yk5MTEv4tps

Adam Baker wrote:Keep in mind that 3D printing goes by volume, and what you have is a pretty decent size (54 cm3), so its not going to be especially cheap.

At least at Shapeways it goes by volume of material finally needed. So a hollow variant will be MUCH cheaper than a solid one.

Kylwell wrote: I brush mine on when needed, you just have to move quick.

That may work, but it is not the inteded way to use this kind of glue. The "dry fit than add glue"-method will work definitely (and create a very, VERY strong bond).

I think my biggest problem is that Tenax is evaporating before I can get the hull-halves together. THAT's the error! Tenax is not supposed to be brushed onto the parts first and then holding them together. You have to assemble the parts first, dry , without glue. THEN take the Tenax and either a ve...

Cool...

but it still needs a modicom of soldering experience to connect up Too sad. I'm searching forever now for a controller that does "just" such a flickering thruster effect and nothing else. Just attach some LEDs to it and you're there - that is what I hope to be able to find some day. And I...

Ant wrote:Using my own controller for this to flicker the engines

LOVE the flicker effect - you should consider to sell the controller. Really!

I own a very old resinkit from the 80ties which is STILL oiling. Strange stuff. I wish it would produce gold the same way "out of thin air"...

It may be one of those cases where you have to throw it into the waste, as it may NEVER stop to be oily - mostly this happens because of a badly mixed resin.

Old Wombat wrote:The builder used positioning of the magnets to prevent movement.

Without a kind of fastening it is impossible to use simple steady magnets to hold a model in place. You need an electronic magnet to do so.

Very cool idea, and well made!!

A video DVD with the episodes woul dbe cool, to be shown at modelling exhibitions.

I say "Dee-Cal".

Sounds better than "Wasserschiebebild" (water slide picture), the correct german term for it.

Never heard about a way to remove cyanacrylat frost, other than to repaint the affected area, or to sand it down and polish it (in case it is a clear part).

Also, if I understand correctly from the text, the poster didn't actually paint them, they're prototypes from Revell that he or she assembled. So perhaps the lesson is "Don't have your models painted and weathered by an international corporation"? No - I know the builder, and the lesson i...

Very cool model. Well done!

I always use "Micro liquid decal film" as a sealer for inkjet decals. It is the same stuff like the decalfilm you print onto, so it reacts the same way. No curling.

BERT aka MODEL MAKER wrote:I will have to try that airbrush cleaner. sounds like it will save a lot of soaking time.

Indeed.

Dowanol.

This stuff is the main part of the more or less new "Revell airbrush clean" - and it removes ANY kind of paint within seconds (really!) without harming polystyrene or resin.

If you use a candle, don't hold the plastic above the flame or in the flame, but aside it. Keep the sprue rotating and moving, so you soften about a half-inch. Once the plastic starts to sag, you're almost there. I don't know whether you already do this. I tried a thousand ways, it was even showed ...

TER-OR wrote:Practice, practice, practice.

Been there, done that, got the T-shirt...

It seems I`m missing the necessary DNS to be able to do it properly...

You can "cheat" the seams with stretched sprue. :oops: That`s my Nemesis: I can try as hard as I`m able to, I never figured out how to manage the "streched sprue"-story. No way. The sprue will ever snap after just a few millimeters, or it willmelt completely. Even if I had to do...

tonyG2 wrote:I like the glow effect but see it as a novelty that would soon wear off.

Well, I want to build a "flying dutchman in space", so I`ll not paint mine (besides some detail painting).

Still wonder what to do with the seamlines...