Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

yes that is the stuff i was talking about. Apparently the PC case modding community is fond of the stuff. I"m just trying to find out about it and the alternatives. Maybe I should try this?: sand the thing first, then vinyl dye it, then use acrylic paint on the roughed up dyed surface (at least...

I haven't found it to be any more durable ... On some of the classic car forums I visit people are crazy about it for interior trim pieces, but I found that it eventually flakes off just like regular spray paint as the underlying plastic lets go of it. It's not like it somehow bonds to the plastic ...

what makes it better? is it just less likely to scratch off the plastic surface or something?

Can you paint over it with acrylic and sealants?

What does it use as a solvent?

Is there anything else i should know about it? pros/cons?

thanks

I should warn you about some of the effects of the vinyl dye: first, it seeps into the plastic because it contains a solvent, that solvent will make the plastic soft, and in the case of thinner and less rigid plastics, such as model grade styrene, this could mean your wings begin to droop. Second, ...

thanks for getting back to me! Meanwhile I found this more detailed tutorial: http://case-mods.linear1.org/im-high-on-vinyl-dye/ I've heard ABS plastic has model styrene in it. I don't know anything about the chemistry so I don't know how much truth there is in that. I heard it via the RC boating co...

no takers? oh well. i tried.

over on the various nerf modding forums, they mention vinyl dye a lot. never heard of the stuff until now. it dyes plastics such as ABS and PVC so that even if you scratch it, its still the desired color. it works on cloth and leather too. I was wondering if it would work on model styrene and also w...

I was cleaning out my room and found an old half-finished F18 model from 12 years ago that had not seen the light of day, literally, in all of that time. I had painted it with enamels and they were already yellowing! No UV exposure and they were yellowing! So: what sorts of paints can I use that don...

I think i'll stick to cotton.

I just find this all to be amazing. I didn't believe it when the RC forums described it to me and i barely believe it now!

Via www.rccrawler.com : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0XDFoKaRAhc&feature=player_embedded# The truck body is made of ABS plastic, not styrene. I've watched it a few times and still don't believe it. Anyone ever done this? Btw apparently you have to be workign with 100% cotton thread or it won't...

TER-OR wrote:Go straight to the transparent watercolors and skip the emulsified oil paints.

I think i shall then.

seam-filler wrote:Those are new to me. May be worth an experiment. Looking at the drying times, though, they don't seem to offer much better than normal oils - just a lot easier/safer to thin & clean up.

I'm ok with that.

And don't do what I did, and buy the alcohol-based inks. They do a number on all sorts of finishes, including fogging Future. :evil: As long as we're talking oil paints, can water-based oils be used the same way? I'm trying to go as eco-friendly as I can, as we live with my mother-in-law, and she h...

What about testors lacquer-based clear coats?

photoguy wrote:I've used Top Flight (the guys who make Mono-Kote RC airplane covering) urethane clear coat with very nice results. It's glow fuel proof too! Should be available at your LHS, Hobbytown, etc.

Nice. Fumes much?

and they're cheaper than pastels apparently.

Good old Kruger apparently uses them a lot IIRC: http://www.maschinenkrueger.com/joomla/ now that i think of it. He mentioned that once in one of his older SAFS builds.

Perhaps i should also try pastel plus water color?

thanks for that! I wish this info had been readily available when i was in middleschool and began modeling!

Btw what about watercolors? i've seen them used by some Ma.K modelers with good effect. Can they be used the same way or no?

Righto. thanks very much.

en'til Zog wrote:How about old style Krylon matt fixative? Or clear fix? Different formula meant for protecting artwork?

that stuff is a bad idea. It isn't even archival 8>/

On another thread someone told me that Testors clear coats turn yellow over the course of a decade, with or without sun exposure.

This is for an RC boat that i've made, which is relevant here because its kind of a WW2 "what if?" kind of thing.

If not testors, then what is good?

are there any good alternatives to Future now?

Let is dry somewhat. If it's totally dry it can be a pill to scrub off, specially with pastel sludge washes. I usually wait for it to go a bit flat looking, then go at it w/a damp cloth. That works with inks as well? My experience with using some inks for art purposes is that once they are dry, the...

Well this is great news! I can go back to using oils with confidence. Thanks guys! On a side note - assuming i'm painting something that will spend a lot of time outside (RC PT boat), is future still a good choice? Over on my fav RC forum, people have been talking about using Testors gloss and flat...

Well this is great news! I can go back to using oils with confidence. Thanks guys! On a side note - assuming i'm painting something that will spend a lot of time outside (RC PT boat), is future still a good choice? Over on my fav RC forum, people have been talking about using Testors gloss and flat ...

I keep seeing this stuff used and I like the results better than one can get with inks. Thing is though that as i remember from art school, artist's oils take years to dry properly and its a bad idea to put anything over them, like varnishes and anything acrylic. And yet everyone from you guys to Fi...

I interned at a casting studio a few years back and they used that resin in smoothon molds and apparently never needed to use mold release. I don't know if the use of mold release would put less wear on the mold or something but they apparently didnt need it.

As someone who's spent a fair part of his professional career around welding, nearly all real life welds would look like a grayish-silver line at 1/48 scale distances. I will say that I've seen some great work on tanks in 1/35 where the weld bead was textured and weathered so it appeared newer than...

Kylwell wrote:Might. If you've taken into consideration resin shrinkage and mold limitations.

I've got one that has indents for positive location, the key it to leave some slop.

Slop? you mean like wiggle room?

re: pinning, why don't resin kits have locator pins of some kind? Also where can I get Simple Green? Simple Green can be had @ most hardware stores. Resin kits don't have locator pins (and sometimes not even locator dimples) because they're simply a pain to get right and if they're not right they'r...

Can you guys post reference pictures of what these weld beads look like in real life?