Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

AC, Don't even bother with the Cabots Cabothane. https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4483/23760097658_20d1e2b637_n.jpg Pic of the back window piece before dipping. https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4470/36942375223_757302e221_n.jpg Pick of the front windscreen after dipping. Just.... UGH!. If it can't cover...

Was run off my feet today, and couldn't find a clear piece to spare my life. So, I went to the nearest hobby shop, and bought an actual model. That ain't happened since mid last year, when i bought the Klingon K'tinga reissue. :P The only thing on the shelf was https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4512/37...

yep. I dried the piece before dipping it. What happened basically, was I dipped it, and had it sitting one way for a few minutes. Maybe half an hour. Knocked it over, and sat it up what I thought was the same way. But was actually the reverse. that's why it began dripping. Just a sec. i'll grab the ...

Funnily enough, It did dry fairly quickly. Just really, really badly. But I think that was down to my dumb ass, and not the Cabothane. https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4490/37516468712_ddd24e6181_o.jpg i haven't dipped a canopy in years. And I used a sun roof off of revellogram Ford F-150. probably no...

Bad news AC. I rummaged around in boxes. and found the bottle of Pledge I had. Unfortunately, I now have an empty bottle of Pledge with half a cardboard box attached to it. The rest of the box, as well as the other junk that was in it. is now pretty much glued to the carpet of our office.Seems some ...

Yeah, I saw that website, and chocked on the price, plus postage, about $10 bucks. Total $35bucks :shock: Hmmm, dunno if it's really worth that much :( Truer words were never spoken. Well, if you can wait about 8 hours. I'll dig up my bottle, and see if its still hunky dory, and not dried to hard r...

Actually, Let me do a dip test with something clear, and a can of shock/horror This urethane clear by Cabots. https://www.bunnings.com.au/cabot-s-1l-cfp-cabothane-gloss-clear-polyurethane_p1520502 I think its that one. I'll have the label in my hand in a sec. I'll let you know how it goes, and what ...

Uhgn...... Yes, and no. No, because remember. My information is based on trials done years ago. The formula could have changed since. My techniques could have been completely wrong, skewing my results. When it comes to information on the web. Especially when it involves your latest build ( And even ...

Valdore wrote: ↑Thu Oct 05, 2017 10:35 am The engine grills off a 1400 Galaxy engine.

Yeah.. Don't hate me because I'm different. And don't ask me where else they could have come from. You seriously do not want to know. lol

I did try it over clear parts. The engine grills off a 1400 Galaxy engine. If'n I'm remembering correctly, they sorta came out milky. Not entirely clear. but also not completely cloudy. And not noticeable on those parts over a clear blue. On a canopy. I'd think it'd be way more noticeable. Remember ...

I tried it years ago. I found it airbrushed well. but dried to sort of a satin finish. Chances are though, I didn't use it properly, and it needed more than one coat before I stripped it. lol. After that, I did use it as a liquid base for a talc filler concoction. ( Kinda like a brush on high fill p...

Wow. That thing looks like it should be on a Star trek style drydock or something. Makes my little yellow circle cutter look kinda lame.

Never thought I'd suffer from cutter envy. Lol

http://www.hobbico.com/tools/hcar0230.php I usually use one of those circle cutters. Can't for the life of me remember how big the saucer of the Excelsior is. But you can get a circle cutter thats able to do a larger circle. The main problem I can see though is putting a divot in the bridge for an a...

Tried it. Not the best. You can get Sculpey moldmaker. Less rigid, and more rubbery than the clay type. That will give you the same, if not slightly better results. Word of caution on Polymer clays. Don't leave this around styrene parts, and forget about it. Sculpey, and other products like it will ...

There was a thread either here ( where I'm a member ) or on Allscaletrek ( where I ain't unfortunately :oops: ) where someone used a hammer, and a flat head screw driver to indent/punch the windows on the 2500 scale Enterprise D, while balancing it on a broom handle. But this is a new laptop. And I ...

I'm probably gonna look stupid for saying what my filler of choice is. :oops: What i tend to use, is a Automotive primer/Talc blend. Depending on the dent/scratch/seam that needs filling. you can add more, or less talc to the primer for the job, for the thickened blend you need. Another thing I've f...

Clear rod. Glue it in, sand it flush and mask. Well gee...... I tried this last night with clear sprue, melting it, and then smooshing it in to the window. And then sanding it down. And thought I was being clever. Then i come on here, and read this thread. :oops: So much for original thinking. Lol ...

if the parts don't flex much at all. How about a mix of paint, and talc? If the seam isn't structural. it should be usable. Basically, you mix the talc in to the paint ( I use acrylic over acrylic primer. though I'm not sure about enamel. ) until you get a thick sludge. let it dry ( it will shrink s...

What about a compass cutter, like these here ones?

http://www.myshopping.com.au/ZM--702830 ... d_Hardware

Would something like that do?

They did have a collection for digital download, with the Elbaz article included.

Here's the link:

http://www.kalmbachstore.com/fspdf013.html

$4.95 ain't bad considering.

Not sure if this is appropriate. But what about plastic pearl beads like these? http://www.beadandcrystalheaven.com.au/popup_image.php/pID/4608/ With the a length of Evergreen, or aluminum tube glued in the center, you should then be able to get the ball joint you need. I can pick these type of bead...

Hi guys, I think KLINGON CAV means is a mostly black surface, with just a tinge of blue. I've experimented with color change nail polish. And it gives that sort of look. Heres a link. http://www.idonails.com/colorchg.htm The version I use needs a black base coat. So you're half way there. Valdore

Getting slightly off topic. Instead of the enamel black as a base coat for Alclad chrome, which to me makes the chrome too dark. I use Tamiya, or Gunze silver, then shoot Smoke/clear black ( Comes off like a shiny gun metal. ) then Alclad over that. This tends to match better the original chrome on ...

Could it be that light curing stuff Tamiya makes? Thats kind of yellow orange.

Valdore

How do davehal9000, Have you thought of using a Paper crimper? They are a way of getting the scale corrogated sheet you're after. And if you use brass sheet, you'll be able to use cirut board etchant to get a rusty appearence. ( Link removed. Forgot about the no linking to auction sites rule. Sorry....

Hi Jagdson, Try Tamiya thinner or Gunze 110 thinner, and it'll get rid of those finger prints. I just use a new clear flat brush. It stinks to high heaven, but it works. You can also use Isopropnol alcohol, but I didn't like the way it balled up. Lastly, when the thinners are dried, spray it with a ...

Hi yall, Well, you've bought the Sculpey. And depending on what its used for, it has its upsides, and down sides. This here site has a lot of useful tips on it, if you tend to be the figure sculptor type and scratchbuilder. http://www.theclubhouse1.net/museum/index.htm I'm afraid that if you want to...