Future/Pledge in Australia?? Pascoe's Long Life floor polish??

[aussie cylon]

Here in Australia, I've come across "Pascoe's Long Life self shining floor polish". I have seen it mentioned on the internet that it is a reasonable product in the absence of Future/Pledge. Has anyone here used it? I have seen a couple of youtube videos saying it's good stuff. I haven't used it yet, but want to try it. Anyone used it? Is it any good? Bad? Any input would be greatly appreciated from fellow Aussie modellers. Not really any information on the internet. I've seen it at Bunnings, 1 litre $11.75, and apparently it's available at Woolworths or Coles, but haven't seen it there.

[Valdore]

I tried it years ago. I found it airbrushed well. but dried to sort of a satin finish. Chances are though, I didn't use it properly, and it needed more than one coat before I stripped it. lol. After that, I did use it as a liquid base for a talc filler concoction. ( Kinda like a brush on high fill primer/thick paint putty idea. ) But again. i found paint/talc to be better.

As for Pledge. I did find it at Cole's yeeeeaaaaarrrrssssss ago when the name changed down here. Since I've still got 3/4s of a bottle somewhere. I haven't been down that aisle since. Thankfully. my job requirement doesn't need me to do floors, or windows. But as long as you don't look at the view. Thats ok.

Did I help with the question? Nope? Well bugger.

[aussie cylon]

So when you airbrushed it, did you use it for clear parts such as canopies? Or as a clear coat over paint?? I just want to use it for clear parts.

[Valdore]

I did try it over clear parts. The engine grills off a 1400 Galaxy engine. If'n I'm remembering correctly, they sorta came out milky. Not entirely clear. but also not completely cloudy. And not noticeable on those parts over a clear blue. On a canopy. I'd think it'd be way more noticeable.

Remember though, this was ages ago. So my memories might be entirely faulty.

Now that you mention it. I did paint the Pascoe's over a Game workshop Citidel paint job. ( Snot Green for a Kbop. ) So that was probably why it came off satiny.

in general ( Again from what I remember ) I found the Pascoe's to be more milky than the Pledge/Future. With Pledge being water clear. Uncut. Pasxoe's airbrushed like water. Where Pledge was slightly thicker. More like a milk consistency. but still airbrushed nicely uncut. From the top of my head. While cleaning the brush, I think the Pascoe's cleaned up fine with Windex. With Pledge needing slightly longer, more involved clean. Ending with a probably over the top by me cleaning with GP thinners. y'know. just to be sure I didn't glue the inside of my airbrush together like a fool. Because..... Yeah. I had been that fool in the past.

[Valdore]

The engine grills off a 1400 Galaxy engine.

Yeah.. Don't hate me because I'm different. And don't ask me where else they could have come from. You seriously do not want to know. lol

[aussie cylon]

So you're pretty much saying to stay away from Pascoe's Long Life floor polish? I think that was the only alternative we have here in Oz, so what do I do now? I only want to use it for canopies. I was going to use normal clear coat, but I've heard they tend to go yellow after a while, depending on which you use. Some brands do, some don't. Which brings me to another question:
Which brands tend to go yellow, and which are really good?

[Valdore]

Uhgn...... Yes, and no. No, because remember. My information is based on trials done years ago. The formula could have changed since. My techniques could have been completely wrong, skewing my results. When it comes to information on the web. Especially when it involves your latest build ( And even health, and safety sometimes. ) Its best to ask advice, then do your own tests. Sorry if that sounds like I'm being a dick. But the last thing I want is to be hunted down, because my info ( Bad, or good ) destroyed your model.

And sorta yes too. i'm not saying defo NO!. Don't touch it. Kill it with fire. What I tried Pascoe's for, was after I'd read a few magazines ( This was that long ago. lol ) I tracked down a floor polish, and was told by a guy at the store " Dude. I'm kinda busy. But this stuff is practically the same product. "

I think we've all been there. been told that. And then sent on our merry way. So I tested it. And found out, that for me. it was crap.

As for Pledge. I did 100% positively buy it at Coles. Infact...

http://www.polish-up.com.au/products/pl ... 798ml.html

BINGO BABY!

And I quote from the page.
"Formerly known as Pledge One Go and Pledge Tile & Vinyl Floor Finish with Future Shine"

I'll drop by Coles, and see if I can find it on the shelf. But at that price. WooF! I didn't pay anywhere near that. Maybe this is an import from the States, or something. if it comes to it. i'll fight my way through all my crap, and see if I can find my bottle. if it hasn't dried out completely. i'll send you some. lol.

Edit; Whoops. got so caught up with the first part of the reply. I plum forgot about the second.

from what I remember. Both didn't tend to yellow over time. ( Even though I stripped the Pascoe's from my ship. I still have some drips on an old DVD cover that I never cleaned. If I had a camera. I'd post a pick to show you. All I got is my craptacular mobile.) The future went on smooth, and clear. While the Pascoe's dried with a slight sheen to it. I'm trying to think of a way to describe it, that I haven't said before. Waxy maybe? You could see it had been coated by something. If you've ever used the Games workshop Citadel brush on clear. Its very much like that.

Just as an aside about clears. A mate of mine had me do the headlight out of his Commodore. After I got over the shock that car headlights are now plastic. I polished it ( Bugger of a job. ) And cleared it with this clear by White Knight
https://www.bunnings.com.au/white-knigh ... s_p1583964

He brought the car back a week later. And sure enough. Not only was it chipped, and scratched. it had also yellowed beyond belief. Since that clear is the same damn clear I use to seal my decals. I'm kinda angry now. Sure. My models don't go down the road at 100kph. But I'd expect the label to at least be right about the yellowing.

[aussie cylon]

Yeah, I saw that website, and chocked on the price, plus postage, about $10 bucks. Total $35bucks Hmmm, dunno if it's really worth that much

[Valdore]

Actually, Let me do a dip test with something clear, and a can of shock/horror This urethane clear by Cabots.

https://www.bunnings.com.au/cabot-s-1l- ... e_p1520502

I think its that one. I'll have the label in my hand in a sec. I'll let you know how it goes, and what the results are.

[Valdore]

Yeah, I saw that website, and chocked on the price, plus postage, about $10 bucks. Total $35bucks Hmmm, dunno if it's really worth that much

Truer words were never spoken. Well, if you can wait about 8 hours. I'll dig up my bottle, and see if its still hunky dory, and not dried to hard rubbish. I know there's a rule against posting paints with Australia post. I wonder if it applies to floor polish too. Whats the worse that could happen. The postie gets it spilled on him, and he becomes glossy? I dunno. lol.

[Valdore]

Bad news AC. I rummaged around in boxes. and found the bottle of Pledge I had. Unfortunately, I now have an empty bottle of Pledge with half a cardboard box attached to it. The rest of the box, as well as the other junk that was in it. is now pretty much glued to the carpet of our office.Seems some idjit didn't screw the top on properly.

Ugh. I haven't done anything that stupid since accidentally spray painting myself matt white, after getting out of the shower. Stupid Tamiya can sized deodorant.

i'll let you know how the Cabothane goes. Probably down to the 8c temp. But the part I dipped still ain't dry. lol

[aussie cylon]

I'm not sure if the cabothane will work. I have a feeling it will be easily scratched and take ages to dry. I think it works good on wood, as it gets absorbed into the wood fibres, whereas, it won't get absorbed into a plastic canopy. I think we really need something acrylic based, and I'm not sure if cabothane is. Can't find anything on the internet about what cabothane actually is. I think I will try the Pascoe's Long Life stuff, as I have seen it mentioned a couple of times on various sites.
I'm sure you've learned your lesson and store your tamiya 'rexona' in the hobby room now, right??

[Valdore]

Funnily enough, It did dry fairly quickly. Just really, really badly. But I think that was down to my dumb ass, and not the Cabothane.



i haven't dipped a canopy in years. And I used a sun roof off of revellogram Ford F-150. probably not the best thing to use. But all I had on hand. I soaked it in windex overnight, then dipped it around... What was it. 2:30, or 3am this morning, and except for a few teeny bubbles. Everything was going fine.

Until that is, i knocked the bloody thing over, and then put it back in to a standing position. After that, the drips developed.

Come to think of it. I don't think I've actually built anything with a canopy in decades. No wonder I got it so completely, and utterly wrong. lol

And maybe. I think I learned my lesson. i'll let you know if I accidentally epoxy my hair down, instead of using gel. LOL

Edit. ohhh yeah. let me know how your Pascoe's test works out. Completely forgot again.

[aussie cylon]

Wow, man that looks.....terrible!! Does it say anything on the tin of cabothane what it actually is? Is it acrylic/varnish/water based/oil based etc??? When you cleaned it with windex prior to dipping, did you dry it?? Cos if any windex was still on the plastic, it would attack the cabothane and you'll end up with a mess.....which you did....
I'll probably be going to Bunnings to get the Pascoe's stuff this week sometime. I've got a shopping list prepared, cos I'm also planning on going to Metro Hobbies in Box Hill to get some stuff that I've run out of.
I'll let you know how I get on.
cheers

[Valdore]

yep. I dried the piece before dipping it. What happened basically, was I dipped it, and had it sitting one way for a few minutes. Maybe half an hour. Knocked it over, and sat it up what I thought was the same way. But was actually the reverse. that's why it began dripping.

Just a sec. i'll grab the can.

Its this Cabot's Cabothane here.
https://www.bunnings.com.au/cabot-s-250 ... e_p1520403

According to the label, its water based Polyurethane. Quick dry, fast recoat - 2 hours.

As I dipped it, it actually didn't look too bad at all. Y'know. in the dark, and all. The run off from the diping wasn't even too bad, once I got a a tissue to wick away the excess. The teeny bubbles I mentioned were going with the excess. It must have been my own clumsiness, plus the quick dry bit that undone what looked like a perfect coat.

Hmmmm... I'll have a rummage around, see if I have anything else thats clear, and re do the experiment. Except. Without the knocking over part.

[Valdore]

Was run off my feet today, and couldn't find a clear piece to spare my life. So, I went to the nearest hobby shop, and bought an actual model. That ain't happened since mid last year, when i bought the Klingon K'tinga reissue. The only thing on the shelf was

The only thing on the shelf I was even vaguely interested in

So YAY! New kit.

BOO Its another Ford. I'm more of a Holden guy.

But YAY! Clear pieces. All 2 of em.

I'll do the Windex thing, and dip them in the morning AC.

[Valdore]

AC, Don't even bother with the Cabots Cabothane.


Pic of the back window piece before dipping.


Pick of the front windscreen after dipping.

Just.... UGH!.

If it can't cover a large piece of reasonable flat plastic. Then a canopy will look completely crap imo.

After thinking about it. I think if you could strain, and thin the cabothane enough, so that it wasn't as runny. It may be usable. But honestly. I'm not sure if it'd work. I'll keep testing it ( May have to ring Cabot's, and see what they suggest for a thinner. Though, there's no way I'm gonna go near clear polystyrene with anything hotter than windex though. )

Oh yeah. Surprisingly. As bad as the above looks. I was able to soak the parts in windex, and get the crud off. So no harm done. In the long run, thats all we can hope for I guess. lol