Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

Yup. Here's what happened when I used Duplicolor sandable white primer. The pearls are an automotive lacquer, and they still couldn't bite into it enough to hold. The problem went away when I switched to Plasticote. Duplicolor Which is really funny since the Duplicolor Primer is an automotive prime...

The stalling factor is the primer. Duplicolor Sandable White Primer is no good. The paint lifts right off of it. I'm going to try Mr Surfacer 1000 White next. I have a can on the way.

it probably purged out.

http://www.micromark.com/Micro-Mark-Pro-Etch-Photo-Etch-System,8346.html This is the only out of box kit I'm aware of. It has a very limited size though, 3" x 3" square. So your maximum part size you can reliably etch would be around 2 3/4 maybe 2 7/8" if you're careful. Its also very...

http://www.floorcareproducts.com/floor-finish/index.asp is this the right stuff for gloss coating? I just bought a bottle of this that says Clean Scent on it, not sure if that will affect the finish. Thats the right stuff, you can thin/clean it with 99% isopropyl alcohol, not sure about the clean s...

Try a hearing aid battery. They're tiny. I think there are a few different sizes from small to OMG thats small! But you might need to use 2 to get enough voltage. I think the standard hearing aid battery is 1.4v. A better place for the batteries might be under the floor of the cockpit. You could use...

Thomas E. Johnson wrote:Try the Duplicolor Self Etching Primer. Its green. I find it bites into the surface extremely well.

I have some. The problem is its green. it tints any paint going over it and I dont want to apply 5 coats of white to knock it down.

Finished another test today. (no pics in this update) This time I tried Green then Blue. Now it definitely looks like there's no "bite" in the primer I've been using. I'm using the white Sandable primer from Duplicolor. I've noticed others having an issue with this primer using the Wilco i...

Okay, I know, I know, I got impatient because I was excited about seeing the results. And because of that, some problems came up. The paint was still soft in some places and lifted up. If this had been a model it'd have been ruined. Give it at least 2-3 hours to dry between coats, or longer. I think...

Just sprayed the first coat - interference blue. I found a set of bottom saucer masks from my 1:350 Refit set made by Aztek Dummy from years ago where I messed up mid paint and scrapped it. I'll use those so we can all get a good sense of how they will look. My first impressions so far: While in the...

I started my paint test today. As with everything, surface prep is most important. Currently applying coats of white primer and I will be wetsanding down to 1500. According to Paul Olsen they went down to wetsanding with 1200, but I dont have 1200 so 1500 should be just as good. I'm still somewhat w...

I just picked up the zinc white and Iridescent Pearl with some airbrush medium to test out. I plan on mixing them instead of using the pearl streight. The effect was a bit much. I was planning on using the decal aztec, but the Interference Blue, green and perhaps red might look really good shot ove...

on my revell uss voyager, one of the larger decals has got a section that hasnt adhered fully. its only about 2mm square and doesnt really notice unless u really look. any tips on what to do about it? Try brushing some future down where the decal will be, push it down with the brush and brush over ...

Adobe Illustrator or Corel Draw will product the best quality but they are expensive. I think both have stripped down versions that sell in a more reasonable range for consumers (as opposed to professionals).

I highly recommend the Eclipse also. I suggest the gravity feed cup over the siphon feed. It seemed like when I used the siphon feed cups I'd end up rinsing out a lot of paint when I only wanted to spray a small amount. I have been leaning toward the gravity feed for this very reason and it appears...

I highly recommend the Eclipse also. I suggest the gravity feed cup over the siphon feed. It seemed like when I used the siphon feed cups I'd end up rinsing out a lot of paint when I only wanted to spray a small amount.

It depends on the subject. It is subjective also, what may be fine for the builder might be not enough or too much for someone else. My opinion is that for shading panel scribes, less is more. When you're painting it, with the mask in place, if its noticable its too much. It takes practice on scrap ...

I've never heard of chrome that would resist Easy-Off, looking around there are several different types of Easy-Off, which one do you have? I think primer will go on fine over the chrome providing you're not masking over it (which sounds like you're not going to do). Ken I used the yellow can, the ...

Those are the ones. I got 1 oz of each color, plus 8oz of the airbrush medium. It says to mix 1:1 with the airbrush medium so I figure I have about 2oz of paint per color, and since they are only supposed to go on in light coats over white I think that 2oz should be more than enough to get the PL ki...

The paint came in. Amazing stuff. If you're familiar with color theory, a complimentary color is a color that appears on the opposite side of the color wheel. So the blue flips to gold. The paint is transparent, and on white it flips to its other color, so the paint appears yellowish, like a piece o...

I have an FM Chrome 1:144 Millennium Falcon. I want to strip the chrome off and so far it is not even taking a dent. I first tried 409. Had a bunch of it. Soaked it for a couple hours, no change, when people were commenting on the release after 30 minutes or so. Also tried bleach, coke, and Easy Off...

Repeating this because it got tacked on the end right before a page change. Will Future work for making windows? I'm just curious because I've got a huge thing of it and it does wonders for canopies and other clear parts. I was just thinking applying tape to the outside face of the part, filling it ...

Thanks guys.

Okay, my question didn't get answered, but it was like last or next to last on the previous page.

What is the best way to clean Future from the airbrush? Windex? Lacquer thinner?

Okay, ordered these yesterday and figured I'd give it a shot. First up will be a sample aztec on a sheet of styrene. If that turns out well I'll make a second go on the 1:1000 using the templates by Aztec Dummy. If those look as good as I hope then I'll bump up to the 1:350 refit. I'll post pics alo...

brandomack wrote:
Its a big sumbitch, so why not overdo it?

Discoprise...

The others have mentioned a lot that will help, but I have to ask, why 60 LED's??? You should only need 10 for lighting windows in the saucer, 4 for lighting the secondary hull windows, 2 for warp engine glow, 2 for impulse glow plus the blinker circuit. So only 18-20

It would be really cool to have all the small dental mirrors set up but it would be pretty obvious in the display of it.

You might be able to do it with narrow beam LEDs aimed from the edges of the case.

Tchail wrote:What's the best way to block light?

Silver, white, or black paint?

Paint the inside or the outside of the model?

Any advice would be appreciated.

-Tchail

if you have the time, bare metal foil.

Will Future work for making windows? I'm just curious because I've got a huge thing of it and it does wonders for canopies and other clear parts. I was just thinking applying tape to the back of the part, filling it with future and then let it dry.