Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

So here is a picture of my seaQuest dsv, it is the close up of the window area I'm wanting to clean up. As you can see, the windows are inverted elongated triangle shape. I'm trying to get these up to par in order to backlight them and finish the model.

For my replica at least, i want to backlight the windows with light blue recreating the look of the series... So for me at least, thickness is no issue.
Will

There's a 41.025" replica available

Definitely would like some more information on this... Seaquest Dsv to build, but want to recess the windows in the resin

I wonder if the stuff could be used for filling back in drilled out windows for interior lighting, case in point, my 1/300 Seaquest Dsv replica

While its not exactly simple, if you have it, use a computer aided Drafting tool, or could always hand draft. Depending on the views you have, all the information you need is there, you just need to extrapolate it. To make a lofting, I use side elevation and top elevation and a 45 degree intersectio...

tiny springs work too

links don't seem to work

or maybe the technology is there...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oie1ZXWceqM

Marco is correct in how to use the Tanax or even Weld-on, assemble dry and swipe! done...course your build time will be cut in 3rds lol been building this way for many years

Will

Kosutte Gin SUN (Paint)

http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10011510

well everyone has chimed in here on how they scribe their lines. One of the more useful quick ways for film miniatures involved tape and primer and the forgotten mention, sandpaper. :D We've gone over this technique before , even a little comparison done as well. The argument was that you couldn't g...

yeah.............. do it for Johnny!

assuming this is resin, like Weld-on, two words for ya....Camel Hair...synthetic brush hairs fuse or bind, camel hair doesn't

Will

well I'll just speak from experience here. I've used both and still have a scroll saw. first one was stolen. If you have a steady hand you can do the most amazing work with a scroll saw, a very good one can cut 1/2" wood like butter and amazing how fast you can go, they also don't bounce up and...

if you don't have the money for an airbrush you could always try killer chrome in a can too made by alsacorp..it's an aerosol and you dust it on..still a bit expensive at 39.00 a can but i've never found anything close for finish including alclad product...just my 2 cents all chrome should be spraye...

alsa's killer chrome is the only way to get a chrome look out of a can...and for 2 more days it's 50% off.. you have to apply it right though, and it must be applied over a high gloss black base. I ran a test on a blister pack for my disposable dust masks. it's easy to apply, but you have to dust it...

Hmm, I didn't see this mentioned, could be wrong, but this is what I've done. Get ya some "L" stock and add the final side. The "L" stock comes in different leg lengths...you could even fill the "L" stock with superglue and accelerate it..I would use Zap gap filler if g...

what putty are you using ?

Will

It's true, I learned from one of the finest and not best mold makers out there many years ago....degassing (, de-airing,vacuuming) the rtv is a must, forget the pressurizing. Only need to pressurize the castings from the mold tool. I've been casting myself since 94, never did it the way you are. :D ...

just seal the foam with latex house paint then got to town with any thing you want to smooth it out, bondo fiberglass, whatever you wish
Will

right i just meant that there could be issues since the front may contain mor rtv then the back, hope I am wrong though...
Will

worth a try!...guess I can run some small tests... I've always only done the single pours though myself....I have however, used this little trick for many years so know the process well..
Cheers,
Will

honestly, I've been thinking about this and come to the conclusion that I don't think it will work. This is mainly because in a two part mold, you will have a different volume of RTV back side verses the front, So with that in mind, my best estimate is this will only work for single open cavity mold...

I see these are open cavity molds, same work for 2 part molds?
Will

well you could always just fill it with super glue( like Zap), hit it with kicker, smooth and move on...you'd be amazed what you can do with superglue, the hobby kind not the other...
Will

sounds like it could be that the resin was inhibited by some reaction and never cured properly inside, leaching resin as it's referred to.
Will

same thing happened to me too...found out the primer i used wasn't compatable with the true laquer paints...make sure they are before wasting hours of painting work.
Will

Howdy, here's a tip on bondo, use latex( no Toulene) exterior house paint to seal the styrene, then once you have a barrier coat, bondo or fiberglass till your heart's content, even works for styrofoam... on the bondo use evercoat ice, featherfill, or Zgap. This body filler and glaze is all you'd ev...

so which ratio worked best for you?