Will this work? (lofting question)

Treadhead · Post by **Treadhead** » Tue Nov 20, 2007 12:26 pm

I want to pose this question to you all...

I'm finished with the basic styrene framework for a master that I'm making. I've had issues with the skinning process in the past (basically I applied a lot of AB putty to the frame and sanded it down to the ribs)

I have a new idea. I was thinking of applying .040 strips across the framework leaving gaps between each strip, then filling the gaps with AB putty (or better yet, Aves).

Will this work?

Umi_Ryuzuki · Post by **Umi_Ryuzuki** » Tue Nov 20, 2007 12:30 pm

It works for all the model ship builders...

TimeScape · Post by **TimeScape** » Tue Nov 20, 2007 1:08 pm

Ship modeler's do it all the time, ie frame & plank. However, if I were you I would not leave the gaps but butt the plastic strips against each other. Then rough sand to shape & apply the putty to smooth out the shape.

Arklan · Post by **Arklan** » Tue Nov 20, 2007 4:06 pm

i did this on my first scratchbuild forthe more comlex areas of the airframe... took stripsand butted them up to one another, just like i was building a wooden boat's hull, then sanded and puttied. worked great.

DX-SFX · Post by **DX-SFX** » Wed Nov 21, 2007 4:45 pm

You're straight jacketing yourself by not straying away from the comfort zone of styrene. Try wood or car body filler and cut out all the time consuming fabrication. Superglue sticks all of them equally well. It's another option.

max142 · Post by **max142** » Wed Nov 21, 2007 7:39 pm

Treadhead: This came from Dave Merriman over at culttvman's site and Joe Brown technique

After cutting out your frames, fill with styrofoam or blue foam board. Then sand down till you can see the frames. Cover with Bondo then sand. You might have to repeat the Bondo step; afterwards, fill pin holes with Bondo Spot and Glaze filler (tuff in red tube)

that's how I built the body for the reaver
http://s32.photobucket.com/albums/d10/max142/reaver/

Man, I need to finish this....it's cover with dust after sitting for several months.

Mr. Badwrench · Post by **Mr. Badwrench** » Fri Nov 23, 2007 2:43 pm

...Except instead of Bondo, use Aves. The toulene in Bondo will eat the foam. Aves is non-reactive. When filling the spaces between the ribs and bulkheads with foam, cut the pieces a little bit short, so they are slightly lower than the ribs. Maybe 1/16" to 1/8". It doesn't have to be precise nor pretty. Glue them in place using epoxy, then fill in the small remaining area with Aves. You can sculpt the Aves very close to your finished contours for two or three hours before it sets up, which reduces the amount of sanding and touch-up work required. This method makes for a very strong, and fairly light weight model.

max142 · Post by **max142** » Fri Nov 23, 2007 3:54 pm

I've never tried Aves that way. The Bondo does eat the foam, but it will harden before the foam is disolved; leaving a hard shell. The outer shell is pretty strong, Ihave not had any problems...so far. The big thing is that Bondo is cheap, but there is a lot of waste.

Mr. Badwrench · Post by **Mr. Badwrench** » Fri Nov 23, 2007 4:16 pm

I used to use a lot of Bondo. But Aves isn't that much more expensive, and it is easily twice as useful as Bondo. It sands smoother, has a longer working time, cures to a consistency similar to that of styrene, is non-toxic, and doesn't stink the place up. The only downside is you can't just run over to the hardware store and pick up a tub.

Migmaker · Post by **Migmaker** » Sat Nov 24, 2007 1:31 am

Howdy,
here's a tip on bondo, use latex( no Toulene) exterior house paint to seal the styrene, then once you have a barrier coat, bondo or fiberglass till your heart's content, even works for styrofoam... on the bondo use evercoat ice, featherfill, or Zgap. This body filler and glaze is all you'd ever need to scratchbuild anything you desire. This barrier technique has been used in the film and theme park industry for many years.
Best,
Will

max142 · Post by **max142** » Sat Nov 24, 2007 7:07 am

How do you thin the Aves to spread? I have some but it is more like clay...I use to fill gaps and on my current (Hyperion B-5), I'll use to make gun turrets, by carving.

Mr. Badwrench · Post by **Mr. Badwrench** » Sun Nov 25, 2007 8:59 pm

Keep it wet. Use water or Aves "safety" solvent. (Not quite sure why it's called safety solvent- don't drink it). Aves works very nicely when wet, feathering out thinly and smoothly.